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Drag/Standing mile project

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I have been asked by a lot of people for a more complete mod list so here goes

2.0L, 9.5:1 custom wiseco pistons
RNR aluminum rods
FP5r FP11 cams
Kiggly springs
O-ringed head
Kiggly HLA Pressure Regulator
ACL tri-metal race bearings rod and main
ARP L19 rod bolts and L19 head studs
forward facing oil filter housing

Garret Gt4202R
Shearer Fabrications top mount t4 header
Twin Tial 44mm gates
3.5" Dp with custom exhaust turned down under drivers seat
Garret/Shearer Fab 4.5" IC
3" IC piping
New tial VQ BOV
Magnus Drag Manifold

Magnus fuel Rail
4 ID2000 injectors (on order)
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive pro series pump
Aeromotive pro series filters

PTT twin disc
WAR racing Transmisson
DSS 3.5" driveshaft
DSS stage 5 rear axles

10pt Chromoly cage
Chute
Firefox systems
Kirkey racing seats
Door and window net

JM Fab small battery kit
BR COP kit
Dynatec ARC II
AEM 5 bar map
AEM IAT sensor
Misc autometer gauges
Manual steering rack conversion
all suspension busings are polly
Jays racing alternator relocation
Cruise removed
Boxed rear control arms
CNC staging brake
Afco radiator
DSS coilvers


I am sure I left a lot out. I also still have some stuff to pick up, Jay's Racing active toe kit, upgrades tcase, speedo and tac for new dash cluster, V3 upgrade for the V2 link I have here among other things.
 
It will be 2 weeks before I have time to get back to the car, work this weekend, racing next weekend. Will be back at it the following.
 
By chance do you have pictures of the head with the Oring grooves in it? Id like to see what has bin done
 
Looks awesome so far man, keep it up! Nice and clean just the way it should be. Good luck with events and I can't wait to hear the results
 
Sorry no pics of the head off with the oring in it. I may have a second head here with oring in it I can dig up to take a picture of.
 
Project has been sidelined for a little more than a month but I should finally have time to work on it now that things are slowing down a bit.

My time was cut short today and spent most of my time on another car but did manage to get the battery kit installed and the Q45 put on, now to remove couplers and weld the piping and put on the BOV and IAT.

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Nice build. Curious to see what it'll look like with the wiring and all installed. Wondering if it'll still have the "clean" look or if the wiring will kinda clutter it up again. I'd like to see more pics of the exhaust though. Having it turned down under the drivers seat?!?!?
 
Wiring should be ok, very little of the electrical will be in the engine bay except what is needed. Headlight wiring will be hidden pretty well as well.

I will post pics of the exhaust when we finish it.
 
I just noticed the bar you have going across the front that you're using for a motor mount. Just wondering if the body is flexing much with that setup versus the stock setup. I had the crossmembers off on my 1g and up on jackstands once and then had a really hard time trying to get them bolted up when the time came cause the body had flexed so much. I understand that this is a mile so sure your launching won't need to be as hard as in the 1/8th or 1/4. But wondering how this is gonna affect things over all. Have you used anything like that before? It looks really nice, but wondering about any downsides to that.
 
It is a Drag car as well ;).

The front roll stop is just like having a solid front motor mount. It will help limit the pitching of the engine and changing the angle of the tcase and driveshaft. It stiffens up the assembly, the only down side is the vibration from the engine is transfered more than polly mounts do.
 
It is a Drag car as well ;).

The front roll stop is just like having a solid front motor mount. It will help limit the pitching of the engine and changing the angle of the tcase and driveshaft. It stiffens up the assembly, the only down side is the vibration from the engine is transfered more than polly mounts do.

I understand that part. But you eliminated the stock cross members. The ones that go front to back. Would think the car would flex a good bit with those gone....but then again, I've never driven a car around with a setup like yours though either.
 
The north south bars are cut, the rear parts still enclose and bolt to the main crossmember with the rack. If you do not it flexes that assembly and will cause it to crack.
 
Are there any downsides to having it like this that you've noticed? I'd love to eventually have something like this on my 2g. Make it yourself or someone make it for ya? Thanks. And can't wait to see more pics.
 
I have not noticed any more vibration after installing the same cross bar. I have 6year old solid polys(so they are alittle bit softer than brand new ones) in the other three mounts and the motor does not budge at all on the dyno. shifting has greatly improved also
 
The north south bars are cut, the rear parts still enclose and bolt to the main crossmember with the rack. If you do not it flexes that assembly and will cause it to crack.

Could you post a pic of the cross members cut? I want to see how much you have to leave behind.
 
Could you post a pic of the cross members cut? I want to see how much you have to leave behind.

I would have to get back to the shop and take a picture, basically you cut it even with the front of the crossmember. It just to tie the fromt and the rear of that crossmember together to stop distortion.
 
Been really busy with other things but I figured I would give a small update.

Well its almost mechanically done, fuel system is plumbed, boost controller installed, vac lines done. Have to remove some things to install the scattershield and install the harness after its completed tonight, but then just safety equipment.

Took a few pics with the blackberry, will get real ones next week when the rest of this is completed.

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Shearer fabrications removeable chute mount assembly came in today.

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Thanks Ron!

Chute is on. Sorry for the crappy pictures. Almost time to dust the car off (wash it). Its getting really close now but I won't wash it until it moves under its own power.

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Dang, that thing looks pretty sweet. Should post a pic of it removed though so we can see what it looks like with it gone as well.
 
Looks like a 2" hole in the bumper, I am going to make a plug for the hole. On a eclipse it would be covered by the tag.
 
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