Downflow outlet on a 16G

[forcefed86]

Here's an update for how did my setup perform.

I broke in the engine on Sunday. The driving conditions were: RICH - AFR between 10-10.5 under boost. Throttle was around 70%, never got past 75%. And RPM never went over 6K.

The turbo was holding 10psi from around 4K to 5K. then started building boost rapidly and on 5.5K I was getting 18-20 psi.

What I think is that I will need to tighten the wastegate. The problem is that I think that I cannot move the actuator further away because it will interfere with the front engine mount. I will have either to trim the mount bu a couple of mm or bend the actuator a little more than the stock bending to be more tight.

So everyone: keep that in mind. I will update with my further progress

Wire your gate open for zero boost to break in a motor properly. Also if you thread the actuator rod you can adjust it's length like I have done. That way you aren't bending and cutting on things to get it to work properly.

Good luck!

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[GRAVEDIGGER]

Wire your gate open for zero boost to break in a motor properly.

Depends on who you talk to on that. I think he's good with his target of 10psi as I share the belief that you need to have some boost during break in.
It used to be common for people to say no boost during engine break in, but most will agree nowadays that it's good to have both positive combustion chamber pressure and vacuum from engine braking to help seat the rings. A couple hundred miles with varying engine load and rpms with 10-15psi of boost and the engine is broken in.

 

[AlphaVision]

Thanks. I have thought about threading the actuator arm and have it in mind. How have you done yours? Do you have to remove the whole actuator, rotate the upper part to screw it down? Or you rotate just the "nut" in the middle and it pulls the arm down?

I have seen 18 psi boost for the first 10 miles. Than lowered it to around 12 psi. But that's a whole different thread, guys

 

[forcefed86]

Unless your running some kind of race ring, the majority of the wear/break-in (80%+) takes place in the first hour. Most don't have a new engine dialed in well enough to get it broken properly with boost. Some do... either way, it will break in without boost just fine. The OP is long past this point. There are many different theorys. I like the ones with proof. The moto-man break in procedure is what I use on all my engines.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm