The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Doesnt grind when cold, does when warm?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mike1992

15+ Year Contributor
3,338
26
Jul 19, 2003
Springfield, Missouri
Just as the title says, my tranny grinds like hell when warm, but when I first start it up and drive down the street she dont grind at all. I am currently using pennzoil syncromesh, do you think a thicker gear oil would help?
 
Yeah, maybe you have WAY to thin of a fluid, so when it heats up, it loses that little bit of viscosity. Sounds strange, usually people get grinds when the fluid is cold, not warm.

Actually, I seem to remember my old NT shifting better when it was cold when I had GM syncromesh in it.
 
im haveing the same problem right now i just got the car and i checked it and the gear oil is kinda milky think water got in it some how or maybe the oil broke down or something but im gona change it and put some hevyer stuff in it and ill let you know how it goes

Mikey Two-Times
'92 GSX "not too stock"
 
Mike1992 said:
Just as the title says, my tranny grinds like hell when warm, but when I first start it up and drive down the street she dont grind at all. I am currently using pennzoil syncromesh, do you think a thicker gear oil would help?
its really simple.. when the oil is cold it is thick and acts as a brake for the synchros.by slowing them down ,, as the temp rises the braking effect dimishes and the synchros if worn do not have the ability to do what they where intended ,, which is to match the speed of the drum they pop into
 
I have metal bushings on both sides, total cost of about $50 for both sets. :rolleyes: Dunno if they did anything. Whats the suggested gear weight oil? Im gonna slap something new in there, syncromesh is just to thin.
 
I dont have problem with the clutch pedal free play. I have a tranny problem cold dosnt grind warm grinds alot. Will thicker fluid help or hurt me? I just need to get by for awhule.
 
Hi!

Here is a quote from Jacks Transmissions: Jacks Transmissions FAQ

"Q: What kind of gear oil do you recommend?

A: For our DSM and 3S transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi 6-speed manual transmission gear oil from the 2005 Mitsubishi EVO MR. (Part number mz313376). This is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the tranny shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Please make sure you use the proper amount as specified in your owners manual (typically 2.4 Qts.) Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with this fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer, Redline Heavyweight Shockproof 50/50 mixed with Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil will also work just as well. For transfer cases and rear ends, use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof ONLY. It is especially important to use only Redline Heavyweight Shockproof fluid or Mitsubishi dealer t-case fluid in EVO transfer cases. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty! THESE ARE THE ONLY FLUIDS WE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH. If you ask us "Will xyz fluid be okay?" we won't have an answer for you. "

Hope it helps! :)

Btw, I'm going for the Redline Heavyweight Shockproof 50/50 mixed with Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil when I get everything back in now.
 
A thicker oil will be better to use and wont hurt anything. I would try out what Jacks transmissions says to use since it probably is a thicker oil like a 70 or 80w.

James :laser::talon:
 
Ive tried new fluid a couple times Ive tried the valvoline and sycromesh and they have the same effect. Im getting ready to put the engine and trany back in and am going to try a thicker fluid. thanks.
 
I used to run straight Pennzoil syncromesh and its just simply too thin, it breaks down to fast, especially in hotter climates, and you will find it getting notchy and needing to be changed every 5-6k.
Also it doesnt provide very good gear protection especially on cars that are shifted hard or are making lots of HP. On high powered cars people have found they are stripping the teeth of off their gears much easier with the thinner fluids. I am not for mixing different fluids to be honest, but I just recently made the switch to Redline lightweight shockproof blue in the tranny, and initially thought my shifting would suffer from jumping up to a thicker fluid like that on this notchy old dsm tranny, but that wasnt the case. As long as you take it easy while its cold
( because it is noticeably harder to shift cold) but once its warm it shifts just like the syncromesh did, but yet provides much better gear protection. So Id recommend that.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top