Does this block and head need work to you?

[Vegas Smith]

Hello folks, based upon these pictures, would you recommend any sanding or preparation to the block or head before I reinstall new head gasket? Head appears to be flat based on feeler gauge and doesn't need resurfacing. Small rust on block is from sitting for a few weeks. Thanks for any input.

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[Boomdeeze]

Is that the cleanest you can get the block to? I would take a wire wheel or some steel wool to get that surface as clean as possible. Don't take the wire wheel to the head as it is aluminum but cleaning it with steel wool will help. I also used a razor blade and glass cleaner on both surfaces before using a final cleaning of brake cleaner.

 

[Vegas Smith]

OK, I have steel wool and a wire wheel, so I'll be using those and some break cleaner. Thanks for the help.

 

[Smilinjay]

If I were you i'd try the steel wool first. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable using a wire wheel on my block. What type of headgasket will you be running? If you stick with a composite, clean the block well and both mating surfaces are within the service limit then you should be good to go.

 

[Boomdeeze]

If you can get the surface clean by using the steel wool and the razor, that would be a good way. If there are spots that won't come off with those, use the wire wheel.

 

[Mauispyder]

Careful with the steel wool. I used some to clean up an O2 housing and it literally fell to pieces leaving steel wool hairs everywhere

 

[JacksonAuto]

Check the valve seats while it's apart. Better to find a leaky valve now instead of having a miss once you get it back together.

 

[edged1g]

Cylinder 4 has a lot of oil in it and there is oil on the valves. Replace the valve guide seals while its apart.

 

[JacksonAuto]

Cylinder 4 has a lot of oil in it and there is oil on the valves. Replace the valve guide seals while its apart.

How do you know it's the seals and not the guides? Or perhaps bad rings in that cylinder? Maybe it's not oil but fuel from a bad injector?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Check the valve seats while it's apart. Better to find a leaky valve now instead of having a miss once you get it back together.

Adding to this. Set the head on its side and fill the ports with water and see which ones leak. Do it for both exhaust and intake ports.
For cleaning the block surface get a long straight sanding block that holds sand paper and use a fine grit like 500 to clean it up. Using a sanding block will keep you from making any low spots. Be sure to clean it properly afterwards. Preferably upside down on a stand.

 

[edged1g]

How do you know it's the seals and not the guides?

I don't. But seeing that its being posted on a forum asking if the surfaces are clean enough to put it back together I assumed he was confident in it to that point. Seals are cheap and quick.

Or perhaps bad rings in that cylinder?

Same as above.

Maybe it's not oil but fuel from a bad injector?

Again, if he's putting it back together and didn't mention any issues like a miss (from a stuck injector) I just recommended seals because they are easier to do with the head off.

Why didn't you mention the oil in the cylinder and on the valves and to check the guides and rings in your original reply instead of pointing out shortcomings in others posts?

 

[JacksonAuto]

I don't. But seeing that its being posted on a forum asking if the surfaces are clean enough to put it back together I assumed he was confident in it to that point. Seals are cheap and quick.



Same as above.



Again, if he's putting it back together and didn't mention any issues like a miss (from a stuck injector) I just recommended seals because they are easier to do with the head off.

Why didn't you mention the oil in the cylinder and on the valves and to check the guides and rings in your original reply instead of pointing out shortcomings in others posts?

Just pointing out other possible causes because your advice might not fix his problem. Not here to argue or point out shortcomings, just trying to offer thorough advice to help the OP avoid tearing it back apart.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Thanks for the information guys. I was told that the car did have a miss on one of the cylinders before I tore it down. BTW, I have never driven this car before. Maybe there are more problems with the head/block than I imagined.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

You need to measure your head to see how much has been taken off and measure your oil hole as well. There are outcroppings to measure with calipers. An untouched head measures 5.200". The oil port mod is advisable; smart to check while the head is off. Which HG are you planning on using? MLS, composite?

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'm using a felpro composite. I wasn't aware of mesuaring the head. It looks like it has a lot of material left for resurfacing

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Have a look:

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I suggest you watch all his videos they're fascinating and full of awesome info.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Awesome videos. Thank you.

 

[Mauispyder]

Don't fill your head with water to check for leaks!! This was recently covered. Use vacuum or a liquid that doesn't prote rust, like wd40.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Don't fill your head with water to check for leaks!! This was recently covered. Use vacuum or a liquid that doesn't prote rust, like wd40.

He's not filling the head with water just the port's and it's not going to rust over night. If it does't leak then he can reinstall and any surface that may or may not occur will be gone in the first warmup. Not to mention he can just blow it off after he is done check. Done this plenty of times without ever rusting anything or ever causing any issue. Speaking from first hand not second or third.

 

[Mauispyder]

@MJcanada
My apologies, I indeed do not have any first hand experience with water leak tests and valves. I was speaking third hand, and I defer to people with actual experience. I let my enthusiasm get the best of me. Sorry to you and the OP. All the best!

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'll be throwing some wd-40 in there tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

CAUTION: Aluminum engine components are susceptible to metal transfer and surface damage when old gasket material is removed from them. Use extreme care when cleaning gasket material from aluminum components. The MLS gasket cannot properly seal if gouging of surfaces, metal transfer, or composite gasket material is left on the head or block surfaces.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

EQUIPMENT INFORMATION
Qty. Tool Number Tool Name
1 NPN Plastic/Wooden Scraper
AR (1) 075282 2" 3M Roloc Bristle Disc White (For Aluminum Surfaces)
AR (1) 075252 2" 3M Roloc Bristle Disc Yellow (For Aluminum/Cast Iron/Steel Surfaces)
1 055392 2" 3M Roloc Bristle Disc Arbor
1 NPN Drill Motor
REPAIR PROCEDURE

This bulletin outlines the proper procedures for preparing head/block surfaces for MLS gasket installation.

1. Following service manual procedures, remove the head.
2. Remove as much of the loose composite gasket material with a plastic or wooden scraper.
   NOTE: Prior to additional cleaning, inspect the cooling passages of the head. Replacement may be necessary if excessive pitting or erosion has taken place that will compromise the sealing surfaces around the cooling passages.
3. Cover coolant and oil passages to the best of your ability and apply solvent or a commercially available gasket cleaner to the head/block surfaces. Allow the solvent to soften the remaining composite gasket material.
4. Using a plastic or wooden scraper, scrape the composite gasket residue from the surfaces. If necessary, apply additional solvent or gasket remover to ease removal.
5. If additional cleaning is needed, use a drill motor and 3M Roloc bristle disc P/N 07528 (white) to carefully remove the remaining gasket material from the head and block surfaces.
6. NOTE: If difficult to remove residue is left, the yellow Roloc Bristle Disk 3M P/N 07525 can be used. Use extreme care when power cleaning aluminum surfaces to prevent metal transfer.
7. Inspect the sealing surfaces for any remaining composite gasket residue. Carefully remove any remaining material.
8. The head and block must be checked for flatness. Follow service manual procedures/specifications where applicable.
9. Spray both sides of the MLS gasket with a coat of MOPAR spray gasket sealant P/N 04318035. (or copper gasket spray.)
10. Re-assemble the engine as outlined in the appropriate service manual. Pay particular attention to head bolt torque and torqueing procedures. All head bolts should be oiled prior to assembly.