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do i need wideband o2 with dsmlink installed

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joe sobo

15+ Year Contributor
846
1
Dec 30, 2007
stuart, Virginia
i just bought a 97 gsx with alot of mods done, including 60 trim garret greddy dual stage boost, completely built block with 1st gen head and throttle body, 44 mm wastegate, slimfans, greddy fmic , type rs blow-off, ......
i just bought dsmlink,850cc injectors, and a eprom ecu.
do i need a wideband o2?????????????? the car does not have an o2 housing,the wastegate dumps to the atmosphere with a custom 4 inch ehauststraight off the turbo.
im shooting for 500 hp but am new to this tuning thing. the car is really fast now but hits fuel cut im guessing because of the ecu? it has 255 and fpr set at like 49psi
is there any way to change the turbo to hit fuul boost before 4500 like it is now?
please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
You dont have to have the wideband.
BUT you should buy one when you are able to. Have you joined the dsmlink forum yet?
Get your fuel trims in line and tune for no knock. Read the manual on dsmlink forum.
Take your time and really understand what your doing before you turn the boost up.

Sounds about right for spool time.
 
Short answer: Yes!

Long answer: In order to get the best tune on your ride, it is imperative that you know what your actual afr is. Dsmlink does a decent job on estimating, but not good enough. It will benefit you greatly to know what actual afr is and tune for a certain air fuel ratio and no knock, depending on fuel type. Good luck!


edit: Why is your fuel pressure at "like" 49? Should be at 43.5
-Aaron
 
when someone puts a afpr, is there a stock one that needs to be disconnected???????
no,im waiting for dsmlink in the mail
 
not having a wideband is like not having a oil pressure gauge.You never know when something could happen,like a dirty injector,weak pump,ect.

I would never have a modified turbo car withhout one!
Ebay has aem ones for 225 shipped!They was 400 a few months back:thumb:
 
the car does have a air/fuel guage...... does that help and the apexi tt says that my a/f ratio bounce between 14.1 ]to 14.6
 
So if you car doesn't have an O2 housing is there an O2 sensor somewhere in the down pipe? How is you ecu controlling the amount of fuel it sprays? As far as I know you need at least the stock narrow band inputting data to the ecu so you idle and cruise properly.

And having a wideband makes tuning much easier and consistent. I recommend the Zeitronix wide band as it is of the highest quality you will find and not much more than units that use lesser parts.
 
PSI is just a number. If you had a lawnmower it might be 100, if you had a V8, it might be 3. This is why you need the wideband, so you can know what kind of air your moving at the given boost level and correct for it accordingly.

There is a stock fuel pressure regulator, on 1g's it's on the end of the fuel rail, probably the same for 2g's, but I've not been under the hood of one before.

I'm not going to tell you your business (and I'm by no means calling you dumb), but if I didn't know there wasn't a stock fuel pressure regulator, I'd probably hold off on the 60 trim and get my car running right with the DSMlink, stock turbo, stock injectors, etc. Then I'd step up to the 850's, then I'd step up to the big turbo. If you're not willing to do that, take the spring out of the wastegate and tune it under N/A conditions until you get the hang of it.

'link is easy to learn, but if you know nothing, and you're screwing around with a turbo that size, it's easy to hose your engine.

Spool up is not your current problem. However, when you learn what you are doing, I've been told that making the AFR lean while under non-boosted conditions will increase ETGs (and thereby increase the energy imparted to the turbine), and help with spool up. Also, with the rev-launch and NLTS features of dsmlink, you shouldn't have problems getting and keeping it spooled.

Good luck!
 
tkelly , this car came with the 60 trim fyi. im trying to add all the suporting mods to it (like what was supposed to be done first) this is the way i bought it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!LOL
 
I would really suggest getting a WB02, really the only way to tune with any kind of accuracy...
 
Could be, or just a simple boost leak.

Log rpm, knock, timing, afr (after you adjust props) and log a run until you hit fuel cut; then report back.


Also, to address this. There is no 'one and all' answer to what 'streetable' boost means. To some it may mean 15 psi, to others it might mean 25 psi. The amount of boost you run has no correlation with how streetable a car is. If that's your concern, learning to stay off the throttle might be your answer ;)
 
Darn, blcknspooln beat me too it.

Do a boost leak test.
Set your AFPR properly to 43.5psi (with the car up to normal operating temp and the vacuum line disconnected):

Side note: You can also do this after you get DSMlink by turning on the fuel pump with the program. This way, you don't have to turn on the car or disconnect the vacuum line. Just turn fuel pump on and set AFPR.

Set base timing to 5*.

Then, once you've done that, take a log once you get DSMlink.

And your A/F gauge and Apexi TT won't help at all with tuning because they're both reading off the narrowband O2 sensor.
 
Darn, blcknspooln beat me too it.

Do a boost leak test.
Set your AFPR properly (with the car up to normal operating temp and the vacuum line disconnected):

1G auto - Spec 42.7psi (Standard value 41 - 46 psi)
1G manual - Spec 36.3psi (Standard value 36 - 38 psi)

Side note: You can also do this after you get DSMlink by turning on the fuel pump with the program. This way, you don't have to turn on the car or disconnect the vacuum line. Just turn fuel pump on and set AFPR.

He has a 2g no? Shouldn't spec be 43.5psi?
 
thank everyone for all the help. i did check for boost leaks, cant seem to find any at all
 
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