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wideband o2 without dsmlink

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black97spyder

Proven Member
704
24
Oct 13, 2012
independence, Kansas
I am getting to the point to where I need to buy a Wideband o2 to monitor my afr's.

Is there even a point to get a Wideband if i don't have Dsmlink yet? Should I get Dsmlink and the wideband at the same time, get the wideband and dont Install it until i get Dsmlink, or buy the wideband first and install and then buy Dsmlink?
 
Just get a wideband and link, they will help more together. If your to the point you know your pushing things then you need to gain control and that's what ecmlink will help you do. If you have all that stuff done in your profile how do you not have something to tune with bro?
 
I had my wideband in my o2 housing a couple months before I bought link. I know the aem uego can simulate narrowband on it own, and I think the lc-1 can also but I'm not 100% about that one. The best way would be weld a bung in the dp, but for what it's worth I have been running mine in the o2 housing for 1 1/2 years.
 
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It's always good to have a wideband to make sure your car is running good, it doesn't hurt anything it should always be one of your first mods on a turbo vehicle.
 
if your worried about your afr's then i would get a wideband for sure. mtx-l or lc-1 is the best IMO then get your EMS when you get the money together. but if you can its best to do it all together weather you use link or MS.
 
Just get a wideband and link, they will help more together. If your to the point you know your pushing things then you need to gain control and that's what ecmlink will help you do. If you have all that stuff done in your profile how do you not have something to tune with bro?

It's always good to have a wideband to make sure your car is running good, it doesn't hurt anything it should always be one of your first mods on a turbo vehicle.

I agree with these guys. A wideband should be one of the very first things installed, long before turning up the boost or raising compression. Lack of tuning and supporting mods is the cause of the "fuel cut" you mention in your profile.

Like mentioned, DSMLink will just log your AFR's. You don't need it to run a wideband. If you use the wideband in the front O2 spot, you will need to simulate the front O2 sensor. Most popular units like AEM will have a 0-1v output that is tapped into the front O2 pin at the ECU. However, I prefer to have a bung welded into the downpipe before the flex section. That lets you get accurate wideband readings but leaves the factory narrowband in place.
 
I agree with these guys. A wideband should be one of the very first things installed, long before turning up the boost or raising compression. Lack of tuning and supporting mods is the cause of the "fuel cut" you mention in your profile.

Like mentioned, DSMLink will just log your AFR's. You don't need it to run a wideband. If you use the wideband in the front O2 spot, you will need to simulate the front O2 sensor. Most popular units like AEM will have a 0-1v output that is tapped into the front O2 pin at the ECU. However, I prefer to have a bung welded into the downpipe before the flex section. That lets you get accurate wideband readings but leaves the factory narrowband in place.

I think i will do it this Way to keep my factory narrowband, thanks! I want the lc-1 Wideband when It's time for me to get one. As for the "fuel cut" I can get around that with a wally 255 and AFPR then later of course the help of link and a wideband.

I'm not worried about hurting things until i really turn the boost up because I tune my 550 horse camaro without electronics, it might Not be right but it still gets the job done.

And i don't have link to tune with yet because I've gotten a second DSM instead which is my AWD Talon that I'm about to drop a built 7 bolt with bc 288's in it which I bought with 5,000 miles on it. haven't started the 288 engine yet or drove the Talon yet so I'm debating with myself What i want to do first to help the most. And of course There are a lot of obvious paths like fuel pump, FPR, FMIC, stall converter, shift box, gauges, and of courses Dsmlink.
 
The 255 and AFPR are honestly just a band-aid for the real problem, not really a solution. Fuel cut is the ECU stopping you from destroying the engine. These cars are like nuclear powered calculators. They produce tons of power for their small size, but they require precise control to avoid Melt Down. When the ECU cuts fuel it's not to prevent a Melt Down, it's to stop one that's already happening. Tuning mistakes are probably the biggest reason for engine failure on these cars, so I'd practice on the engine you don't care about first.

But that's just my advice. :)
 
Yeah i realize those are just band-aids. I'll be doing those things before the tuning tools because of the cost difference... I know this is nowhere close to proper or correct but I'm smart enough to know what will hurt my engine and What i can get away with (for now) :D without a tuning tool. LOL

I never really knew Exactly what fuel cut did besides stop fuel to the engine and keep the pistons from melting, so Thanks for the information!!! :thumb:

As for it being bad for my engines, they are both fully built 7 bolts so they'll take a considerable amount more of abuse before bad things happen! Not saying something can't happen, it'll just be harder for something to break on the inside!
 
As for it being bad for my engines, they are both fully built 7 bolts so they'll take a considerable amount more of abuse before bad things happen! Not saying something can't happen, it'll just be harder for something to break on the inside!

A bad tune or lack of a tune can ruin a fully built engine just as easy as a stock one.
 
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