Do i need this?

[1gdsmnubie]

And what is it? The black thing sitting on the air cleaner.

 

[forcefed4]

Boost control solenoid
If you don't have an aftermarket boost control, you need it

 

[1gdsmnubie]

If i remove it what do i do with the wiring so it doesn't screw up the ECU, i dont want to have to buy another ECU i just got one.

 

[vmac]

i broke mine and now my car runs like crap. could this be the cause?

 

[forcefed4]

If i remove it what do i do with the wiring so it doesn't screw up the ECU, i dont want to have to buy another ECU i just got one.

If you have another way of controlling the boost, and you want to remove it, you can tuck the wire anywhere out of the way. I know you can't remove it on a 2g without a CEL, but on a 1g I THINK you can with no problems.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

i broke mine and now my car runs like crap. could this be the cause?

mine runs like POOP it's the only vac lines that aren't hooked up, nipple broke off of it, i do cheap way to expensive way

 

[forcefed4]

i broke mine and now my car runs like crap. could this be the cause?

Explain "broke" and "runs like crap"

 

[1gdsmnubie]

If you have another way of controlling the boost, and you want to remove it, you can tuck the wire anywhere out of the way. I know you can't remove it on a 2g without a CEL, but on a 1g I THINK you can with no problems.

it wont mess with the ecu if i unplug it? hoping it wont

 

[1gdsmnubie]

idle's fine when i get on it then let off the gas it spits and sputters to the point it almost stalls, new CAS and TPS came with the car so i put them on anyway. i didnt notice the vac lines off until after i took it up the street

 

[forcefed4]

It shouldn't. Worst thing it could do is trigger a CEL. Don't just unplug it without having something else to control your boost. That will destroy your engine.

If you need a cheap way to fix it, just hook up the wastegate to the nipple on the turbo outlet.

Edit: have you done a boost leak test?

 

[1gdsmnubie]

i dont plan on putting a T in there like someone said to do but i would like a way to control my boost so i'm not buying a new engine. thanks for the help

 

[forcefed4]

Just get a good MBC and you'll be fine.

 

[vmac]

Explain "broke" and "runs like crap"

ya know the little plastic pipe that the tube goes on? it feel off. and by crap i mean wont idel (keeps dying) and is no where near as fast.

*but still faster than a honda

 

[forcefed4]

Sounds like you have a boost leak from it. You should get a MBC, and do a boost leak check.

 

[Talesin]

No, you have to leave the BCS hooked up to the wiring harness plug on a 1G, or it will throw a CEL. Just like on the 2G. If you've managed to break yours, simply run a length of vacuum hose from the compressor outlet elbow to the wastegate boost reference nipple. The BCS (in stock trim) is teed into that line and bleeds off a little of the pressure into the intake, so the wastegate sees less boost and will stay closed longer, raising the boost level. The ECU can turn off the BCS if the engine starts knocking badly to lower boost to MHI wastegate spring pressure, at 10psi.
Running a line from the compressor outlet elbow nipple to the wastegate actuator will make it run at wastegate pressure (10psi) all the time, but takes the BCS out of the loop if yours is physically broken.

Down the line, you can simply splice in a MBC on that compressor elbow->wastegate line, and manually raise the boost level. But a straight vac line will get the car running right again (no vacuum leaks), if a little bit slower than the stock 1G 12psi.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

No, you have to leave the BCS hooked up to the wiring harness plug on a 1G, or it will throw a CEL. Just like on the 2G. If you've managed to break yours, simply run a length of vacuum hose from the compressor outlet elbow to the wastegate boost reference nipple. The BCS (in stock trim) is teed into that line and bleeds off a little of the pressure into the intake, so the wastegate sees less boost and will stay closed longer, raising the boost level. The ECU can turn off the BCS if the engine starts knocking badly to lower boost to MHI wastegate spring pressure, at 10psi.
Running a line from the compressor outlet elbow nipple to the wastegate actuator will make it run at wastegate pressure (10psi) all the time, but takes the BCS out of the loop if yours is physically broken.

Down the line, you can simply splice in a MBC on that compressor elbow->wastegate line, and manually raise the boost level. But a straight vac line will get the car running right again (no vacuum leaks), if a little bit slower than the stock 1G 12psi.

so even with an MBC i still need to keep the MBS hooked up? Not looking for a "quick fix" i want to fix it right i'd just rather start with fixing the cheaper things first instead of jumping head first and spening all kinds of money on things that i really didn't need

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

When installing an MBC, you only need to have the BCS hooked up 'electrically'. Just leave the BCS plugged into the wiring harness, that way your ECU won't throw a CEL. The vacuum tubes on the other hand, will NOT be hooked up... as they would then be routed to your shiny new MBC. Make sense??

 

[gr8popp]

I haven't seen one of those in longest time

 

[kenamond]

Not sure about the 1g, but the 2g BCS connects to a bracket that is bolted to the inside (toward the centerline of the car) face of the passenger-side frame rail under the coolant overflow bottle. If 1g is the same, see if that bracket is still there and remount the BCS to it to get it out of the way.

Much of this has been mentioned to some degree already, but here's my more specific recommendation w.r.t. "mothballing" the BCS. If you get an MBC, make sure you don't leave any of the vaccuum lines open to atmosphere or you'll have a boost leak in the intake pipe where the BCS bleeder line connects. I just took a 3" section of vaccuum line and put one end on each of the BCS nipples (to keep the insides of the BCS clean) and put a cap on the intake pipe nipple (where the BCS bleeder connects). I put the stock vaccuum lines, clamps and T fitting for the BCS setup in my "box of stock parts I've upgraded" so I can go back to stock if needed. And I left the BCS plugged in electrically to dodge the CEL.

As a thought (don't mean to hijack the thread), I'd be curious to see if folks use the BCS signal to drive a dual-stage MBC...actually just do what the BCS does and give full boost signal to the WGA based on knock or go through the MBC otherwise. Might be wierd-feeling to go from 20psi down to 10psi all of the sudden. Or have a 2nd MBC set to 15psi or something, and the BCS signal would switch to the lower boost but not necessarily down to the WGA actuation pressure. Surely someone's done that. The ECU provides that service...why not take advantage? Wonder if it could tie into a water/meth injection kit... But I should search first.

 

[1gdsmnubie]

I haven't seen one of those in longest time

just bought the car early september, needed an ECU and few nickle and dime things, switches and what not, didn't about this problem till after i got a new ECU and took it up the road. I have a few friends that are into dsms but they aren't much help, one told me to just put a T in the lines to run full boost but i dont wanna blow the motor any time soon it still has less than 100k on it. ordered a hallman MBC, hoping this solves my missing when engine rev's down.

 

[kenamond]

just bought the car early september, needed an ECU and few nickle and dime things, switches and what not, didn't about this problem till after i got a new ECU and took it up the road. I have a few friends that are into dsms but they aren't much help, one told me to just put a T in the lines to run full boost but i dont wanna blow the motor any time soon it still has less than 100k on it. ordered a hallman MBC, hoping this solves my missing when engine rev's down.

If you haven't already, do a boost leak test. It's a must for these turbo cars. The fix I outlined can easily be done. In the short-term, you can run the vaccuum line straight from the turbo to the WGA but do the other stuff to the BCS and its vaccuum lines. That'll give around 10psi and will tell you if it has anything to do with your boost controller. When the MBC comes in, it'd be another 10 minutes or less to get it installed. If you find out that the BCS is not to blame, your MBC isn't going to help.