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Different problems when accelerating

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Th3DooM

10+ Year Contributor
301
3
Jan 5, 2011
Dresden, Europe
Okay, you helped me alot in the past months, but I have different problems when accelerating with my 98GS.
When I hit the gas it seems that the engine moves backwards. I guess my motor mounts are worn so I wanna get some urethan mounts but don't know if I need new stock mounts (the urethans are just inserts, right?). I'd like to replace as much rubber as possible with urethan.

Then I often have the problem that my car accelerates really slow. Not like "it's no turbo, why do you wonder"-slow, just real damn slow like I lost about half its power. In the other moment the car runs great, accelerates smooth and faster than before.

When my rpm is about 1700 to 2000 and I try to hold the speed, the car starts to shake like pushing the gas and release it really fast mixed with the feeling of driving on a gravel track. The Accelerator is pushed just a little. Could a dirty throttle body or intake manifold/idle control cause this?

These problems exist since I own my car. I had trouble with the ignition system and changed the spark plugs, wires and coil about 2 months ago. At least I got rid of the randomly jumping rpms. I hope you can help me.

Btw I would be happy if you could help me with my suspension problem as well:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/432936-megan-racing-ez-series-good-dd.html
 
Last edited:
Is it possible to check the cat without removing the exhaust piping?

Some weeks ago my cel threw a code for the o2 sensor but it went off by itself. Also a mechanic told me it sounds like there is no cat on my car anymore but I guess it's just a little rust hole at the end of the piping...

Edit: how could it be that the cat unclogs itself? Could the exhaust gas stasis cause overheating in idle?
 
To check it, let it warm up then look under the car, the cat will be glowing bright orange. And I could see it causing overheating, I mean hot gas pressure has very little escape route, causing a back up making the headers hotter, making the head hotter and etc. Well makes sense in my head.
 
Sorry for bumping my own thread!

A little update:
Long story:
On saturday (April 14th) I had to disconnect my battery due to recharging. After the battery was charged I installed it back into the engine bay and started the car. I let it idle for about 5 -10 minutes and then turned it off.

This week the car drives much better and accelerates like a totally other car. But I have a new problem: When I engage the clutch the rpm will stay at the range I drove. It even won't calm down after 5 seconds, so I have to push the gas pedal a bit and after that the idle falls to about 900-1000rpm (before I disconnected the battery idle stayed at about 800-900).

tl;dr-version:

disconnected battery, car runs much better, but after engaging clutch idle stays at 2000rpm. have to push gas pedal for normal idle. Where to look at?
 
Throttle position sensor is a common failure item on these engines that will cause idle and driveability problems, it also takes some time for the computer to diagnose itself of this problem. Without a CEL or a computer to check values its just a guessing game. Good luck.
 
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