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Cylinder Head Recommendations

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xtotek

10+ Year Contributor
82
3
Mar 6, 2012
San Antonio, Texas
Hi all,

I have a small dilemma.....a few months ago I went to buy a 7 bolt long block to throw in my 98 GST just to get it running so I could sell it for an AWD. So long story short, the block was OK but there was all kinds of crank walk going on and the head looked like crap but because I don't have a lot of knowledge with cylinder heads, I had to drop it off at my machinist to get a better idea of what I was working with. I got a call from the machinist the other day saying that the head looked like it had been taken part and had a blind guy reassemble it. Basically he said it was super boned up and would cost me $600 in parts/labor to get it back to stock. I was like WTF, but I respectfully told him to give me a little time to investigate.

On the short block side, I went ahead and dropped the block off along with a forged eagle crank, eagle rods and wiseco pistons. Block was bored 20 over and hot tanked and assembled. It's pretty much ready to go once I sort the crap out with the head and find me a decent turbo setup.

At this time I've decided to just go with a solid build and make a strong DD out of my FWD. Question is - I've seen some decently built heads on here going for $600-$1000 that were ready to bolt on. I'm not looking to make anything over 500hp. I'd like somewhere in the area of 400-450hp and still have it reliable. With that said, what should I be looking for in a cylinder head as far as some modifications? Can I use a stock head and still achieve the results I'm looking for?


Thanks!

Danny
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

the block was OK but there was all kinds of crank walk going on

I LOL'd LOL

What mods to look for in a head:
-Cams (264, 272 & etc)
-Upgraded springs and retainers (Single, dual or beehive style & brand)
-Upgraded lifters (Revised 3g)
-Valves (Stock or O/S size)
-Any port work (Not really needed in your case but its a plus IMO)
-Head surfaced decked or resurfaced (Depending what HG you plan on running MLS or cosmetic)
& the list goes on.

I wouldn't recommend pushing 400-450hp pn a completely stock head and still be reliable. At least upgrade the springs and retainers & cams. GL :thumb:
 

haha....yeah after I re-read it I thought the same. what I meant was that the cylinder walls were fine but the crank was super hosed and scratched to hell. Since I was going to use a new eagle crank, that didn't matter.

thanks for the info! :D
 
Ask your mechanic what exactly that $600 gets you. I'd be curious what parts he is going to replace and what machine work he plans to do.

^^^^ This... Find out excatly what is wrong.... bent valves? Cracked guides?
Worn valve springs? Worn Guides?

This may help you understand what a rebuilt head should go thu.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/420045-how-have-4g63-head-rebuilt.html

Now if he says you need valves, find out what brand, avoid most all "stock replacement valves"

They may be of a 2 piece design, where the valve head is fused welded to the stem.

Find a good seat of stock 6T valves that have been proven over the years to work, or get a set of Stainless steel valves.
 
^^^^ This... Find out excatly what is wrong.... bent valves? Cracked guides?
Worn valve springs? Worn Guides?

This may help you understand what a rebuilt head should go thu.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/420045-how-have-4g63-head-rebuilt.html

Now if he says you need valves, find out what brand, avoid most all "stock replacement valves"

They may be of a 2 piece design, where the valve head is fused welded to the stem.

Find a good seat of stock 6T valves that have been proven over the years to work, or get a set of Stainless steel valves.


Holy cow......fantastic write ups, Bogus!
 
I'm surprised some noob isn't in here freaking out because Bogus impacted the cam gear bolts off.
But that is one fantastic 4g63 head rebuild thread.
 
What's wrong with impacting the cam gear bolts out?

While I never said there was anything wrong with doing it,

I was taught to never impact impact cam/main bolts loose.
I think the reasoning behind that would be like a what if, small crack or etc from the force/trauma.

I have also heard to not impact that huge crank bolt but I do all the time and don't see whats wrong with doing it.

Personally I always loosen them with a socket and wrench.
My comment was more of a sarcastic remark on how everyone freaks out over peoples diff ways of doing stuff.
 
I never said it was bad, just cause I do things differently doesn't mean I think im better then someone else. SO get off this stuff guys.
Was just stating what I did.

That comment was just made because that one dude, *not brian* was talking about that whole RTV application in other thread.

As far as I'm concerned I have never scene a issue from doing it, or even heard of anything happening.
 
While I never said there was anything wrong with doing it,

I was taught to never impact impact cam/main bolts loose.
I think the reasoning behind that would be like a what if, small crack or etc from the force/trauma.

I have also heard to not impact that huge crank bolt but I do all the time and don't see whats wrong with doing it.

Personally I always loosen them with a socket and wrench.
My comment was more of a sarcastic remark on how everyone freaks out over peoples diff ways of doing stuff.
I know your comment was moreso comical and you didn't openly say it was bad, but you certainly implied it.
Not jumping your case or anything, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with impacting those bolts off.
 
I know your comment was moreso comical and you didn't openly say it was bad, but you certainly implied it.
Not jumping your case or anything, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with impacting those bolts off.

Well I will stick to what I was taught. But thats a personal preference.
Everyone does stuff different.
 
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