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CUT Balance shaft Belt [Merged 6-7]cutting belts remove

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heres another update:

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i basically used long screws as plugs for both the oil holes and the block holes. worked out great
 
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could just be my computer but thats a bunch of nice red x's (except the first place)

either way cutting any kind of belt w/o replacement doesnt seem too smart to me
 
GSEclipse06 said:
could just be my computer but thats a bunch of nice red x's (except the first place)

either way cutting any kind of belt w/o replacement doesnt seem too smart to me

its your computer, especially if youre on dial up. right click each one and select show picture
 
Madness.... Im in the middle of rebuilding my motor and am eliminating the shafts with a kit, I do have a friend with a 91 gsx that did just cut the belt and has been driving without a belt for a year now. ROFL His runs fine to.
 
I just want to clear something up and make sure I understand. You are a bit miffed that someone doing a half assed mod ended up hurting your motor, so to fix it, you do a half assed mod. That may work, and it may work well, however that isnt the best way to do things. Kinda like people who just cut the belt and dont remove the shaft. :confused:
 
What if i cut the balance shaft belt off instead of getting the elimination kit and other related questions.

Well since i have to replace the water pump, and timming belt i was gonna replace it all pulleys, belts, tensioner, balance shaft stuff ext.. But with the money running out and me really not wanting to remove the oil pan and oil housing ext to do the balance shaft elimination, i was wondering what if i just cut the belt off of the balance shaft tensionor?

I need to know before i do this, so please dont flame me, and thanks for your help.

Also Do i need the special tool to install and remove the tensioner that has the pin that pushes the tensioner? I need to know this as well.

Again thanks for the help.
 
You can but that still leaves the rear balance shaft, which is driven by the oil pump, in motion. Since a lot of the reason you eliminate the balance shafts is rotational weight, I don't see the point, unless you just really don't want the balance shaft belt to break and take out the timing belt.

I'm assuming you'll be getting a new auto tensioner so it will come from Mitsu with a pin in it. Tension the belt with the manual tensioner first and then take out the pin. If you end up screwing up, you can put the auto tensioner in a vice and reinsert the pin.

In WV too huh? Awesome
 
You can but that still leaves the rear balance shaft, which is driven by the oil pump, in motion. Since a lot of the reason you eliminate the balance shafts is rotational weight, I don't see the point, unless you just really don't want the balance shaft belt to break and take out the timing belt.

I'm assuming you'll be getting a new auto tensioner so it will come from Mitsu with a pin in it. Tension the belt with the manual tensioner first and then take out the pin. If you end up screwing up, you can put the auto tensioner in a vice and reinsert the pin.

In WV too huh? Awesome

I just see it easier to cut it then to remove half the bottom end to do the kit, or to remove the crank timming sprocket cause the breaker bar i have is broke and i dont wanna mess with it.

And yes i am gonna get new ever thing even the crank pulley cause all of it looks like crap if it can be replaced then its coming off except the tensioner bracket that the tensioner thing with the pin it bracket cause it looks fine


But i just want to make sure that the car will be fine with the belt cut off i dont car about the vibrations just dont wanna seize anything
 
I wouldn't do it. If you leave one shaft spinning, It will cause a noticeable amount of vibration. More so than removing both shafts. I can tell you this from experience when my bs belt broke. I have since removed both shafts.

If there are no problems with your balance shafts, I'd just replace the belt (and tensioner) if you're not going to commit to doing the job 100%.
 
But i just want to make sure that the car will be fine with the belt cut off i dont car about the vibrations just dont wanna seize anything

Don't leave the front shaft loose then. Leave the bs sprocket and spacer on so you can "lock" the bs in place to block the oil holes in the bs bearings.

...I still wouldn't do it though. :p
 
I wouldn't do it. If you leave one shaft spinning, It will cause a noticeable amount of vibration. More so than removing both shafts. I can tell you this from experience when my bs belt broke. I have since removed both shafts.

If there are no problems with your balance shafts, I'd just replace the belt (and tensioner) if you're not going to commit to doing the job 100%.
Well when yours broke did it mess the motor up? I dont care about the vibration just dont have the money to do the bs belt and tensioner, and since the water pump and timming belt is off i figured why not since the bs belt is looking a lil worn.
Don't leave the front shaft loose then. Leave the bs sprocket and spacer on so you can "lock" the bs in place to block the oil holes in the bs bearings.

...I still wouldn't do it though. :p

Got any pics i need more detail, and when yours broke did you have any problems?
 
No. I got lucky. Half the teeth were shorn off the belt, the belt shredded, then curled up at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover without tangling itself in my timing belt. LOL

I say the vibration sucks because at that point only my rear shaft was spinning, and while not realizing what had happened at the time, I limped my car home like that. (I was only a couple blocks away, but it was still dumb. I got lucky twice!) :p And like I said, I have since removed my balance shafts and the vibration now as compared to with one shaft spinning is noticeably less.

I just think that if there are physically no problems with your balance shafts and you go ahead and eliminate the belt because you don't want to spend $20 right now for the belt, find out you don't like it later and not be able to put a bs belt on without having to redo the whole timing belt job; well, that would just suck.

If you haven't looked at the vfaq, there are plenty of pictures and much more detail. Even some info about leaving the front shaft in place http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html
 
No. I got lucky. Half the teeth were shorn off the belt, the belt shredded, then curled up at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover without tangling itself in my timing belt. LOL

I say the vibration sucks because at that point only my rear shaft was spinning, and while not realizing what had happened at the time, I limped my car home like this. (I was only a couple blocks away, but it was still dumb.) :p And like I said, I have since removed my balance shafts and the vibration now as compared to with one shaft spinning is noticeably less.

I just think that if there are physically no problems with your balance shafts and you go ahead and eliminate the belt because you don't want to spend $20 right now for the belt, find out you don't like it later and not be able to put a bs belt on without having to redo the whole timing belt job; well, that would just suck.

If you haven't looked at the vfaq, there are plenty of pictures and much more detail. Even some info about leaving the front shaft in place http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html
Thanks, on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being horrible rate what it feels like with just the rear balance shaft. Does it feel like a motor mount is shot or the sterring wheel shake while driving, i am just trying to get a feel for what to expect, thanks.
 
Silver Bullit,
Dude if you are going to spend the money on all those components then just spend a few more dollors and get the stubby shaft and 2 gaskets. (one for the front case and one for the oil filter housing. Use good engine RTV or "The Right Stuff" (that is the name of it) to seal the oil pan. It doesn't take much longer and I'm telling you that you will be much happier doing it right. The BS kit is only $40 pretty much everywhere these days. Don't be to intimidated by the job. Just remove the pan and oil pick up tube before you try to remove the front case. Personally I don't like balance shafts since they spin faster than the crank. It's another belt to break and they also tend to spin their bearings at high RPMs doing damage to the rest of the motor.

You are talking another $50 to do the job right. If you don't have the money save it up.
 
Removing the "B' belt has been criticized by many as being a half-assed solution, but I can't find that anybody that has done it has reported a problem with it. I drove for god knows how long on a broken belt and found the vibration to be slightly less than after installing the eliminator kit.
 
Silver Bullit,
Dude if you are going to spend the money on all those components then just spend a few more dollors and get the stubby shaft and 2 gaskets. (one for the front case and one for the oil filter housing. Use good engine RTV or "The Right Stuff" (that is the name of it) to seal the oil pan. It doesn't take much longer and I'm telling you that you will be much happier doing it right. The BS kit is only $40 pretty much everywhere these days. Don't be to intimidated by the job. Just remove the pan and oil pick up tube before you try to remove the front case. Personally I don't like balance shafts since they spin faster than the crank. It's another belt to break and they also tend to spin their bearings at high RPMs doing damage to the rest of the motor.

You are talking another $50 to do the job right. If you don't have the money save it up.
Yeah you are right but i figured if i am gonna take it off i will replace the oil pump and i dont really have the time or money but i may consider it thanks for the response.
Removing the "B' belt has been criticized by many as being a half-assed solution, but I can't find that anybody that has done it has reported a problem with it. I drove for god knows how long on a broken belt and found the vibration to be slightly less than after installing the eliminator kit.
Thanks for the response.
 
I've done it. It's not bad at all.

The only logical reason Module Unknown's vibration was more noticeable then no shafts turning COULD be because the belt was semi attached with tension and was continuing to turn the front shaft way out of phase (when the teeth did grab).
 
I can attest to removing just the BS belt and having no issues as well. I rev this engine to 8500 rpms and no damage or any sort of loss in power or strong vibrations. I am running w/ WELDED rollstops and motormounts. So of couse, I noticed a bit more vibration. But surely not so much to warrent insalling another belt that may split my timing belt again.
 
I can attest to removing just the BS belt and having no issues as well. I rev this engine to 8500 rpms and no damage or any sort of loss in power or strong vibrations. I am running w/ WELDED rollstops and motormounts. So of couse, I noticed a bit more vibration. But surely not so much to warrent insalling another belt that may split my timing belt again.

Thanks.
 
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