1G Coolant filling reservoir.

[mitsuowner1991]

Ok so for a while I keep loosing coolant.. but there isn't a puddle on the ground or anywhere wet in the engine.. so I was told Mabe the heater core is leaking. So I bought a coolant pressure tester pump. And it's holding 12psi no problem. What should I look at next?

Coolant pressure

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[Widgmaster]

So basically when your rad cap released pressure your coolant was just blowing out to the ground .. I`m surprised there was no signs of this when you open the hood ..
Definitely put a clamp on that hose so it don`t blow off..............

 

[mitsuowner1991]

So basically when your rad cap released pressure your coolant was just blowing out to the ground .. I`m surprised there was no signs of this when you open the hood ..
Definitely put a clamp on that hose so it don`t blow off..............

No. When my rad cap released pressure my coolant fills the overflow reservoir. But because the return hose was off it couldn't get back into the engine.

 

[Mech Addict]

You might want to check the temp gauge sender, just to verify it's accurate. You'll need an accurate thermometer to check against. The FSM describes the procedure. You can verify your checking thermometer in boiling water, adjusting for your local elevation (bp goes down as atmospheric pressure goes up). But I think you're on to something about the expansion tank not correctly plumbed to let the mix back into the cooling circuit after it accepts the expanded liquid. There is the hose to the expansion tank cap, and then the tube that reaches the bottom so that when it cools and "shrinks", the tube stays submerged and atmospheric pressure "pushes" the excess back into the cooling circuit. At least that's how I've always understood it to work. Funny that older cars didn't have these; perhaps larger radiators??

 

[steve]

You can verify your checking thermometer in boiling water, adjusting for your local elevation (bp goes down as atmospheric pressure goes up).

I think you have that backward. The boiling point temp goes down as the atmospheric pressure goes down. Most liquids boil easily in a vacuum.

There is the hose to the expansion tank cap, and then the tube that reaches the bottom so that when it cools and "shrinks", the tube stays submerged and atmospheric pressure "pushes" the excess back into the cooling circuit. At least that's how I've always understood it to work.

Combination of atmospheric pressure and the lower pressure created by the coolant contracting as it cools.

 

[Mech Addict]

Yes, totally right, bp goes down as ambient pressure goes down. I just wrote it wrong.
I'm not sure I see the distinction in your second comment, though I'm sure I'm suffering from knowing what I meant when I wrote it. The main take-away is that if there is no tube leading from the expansion tank cap down into the liquid, then no liquid will flow back into the cooling circuit.

 

[mitsuowner1991]

You might want to check the temp gauge sender, just to verify it's accurate. You'll need an accurate thermometer to check against. The FSM describes the procedure. You can verify your checking thermometer in boiling water, adjusting for your local elevation (bp goes down as atmospheric pressure goes up). But I think you're on to something about the expansion tank not correctly plumbed to let the mix back into the cooling circuit after it accepts the expanded liquid. There is the hose to the expansion tank cap, and then the tube that reaches the bottom so that when it cools and "shrinks", the tube stays submerged and atmospheric pressure "pushes" the excess back into the cooling circuit. At least that's how I've always understood it to work. Funny that older cars didn't have these; perhaps larger radiators??

I think I solved my problem. The return hose in the overflow container wasnt touching the bottom and wasnt connected as it keep falling off. So I cut a hose long enough to touch the bottom of the overflow. And used a hose clamp to connect it so it dosnt fall off anymore. I will let you know when I take the car for a spin and what the results are. But I think that was my problem. I just never thought the hose was that important.

 

[Mech Addict]

Ahhh, physics!
Curious if that fixes it.

 

[mitsuowner1991]

Ahhh, physics!
Curious if that fixes it.

So am I. I sorta gotta stuck in another bad snag.. I don't even wanna say anything.

Ahhh, physics!
Curious if that fixes it.

Now that it can get coolant back into the system it's not gonna over heat.

 

[Dericsh]

Did you get a chance to drive it yet?

 

[mitsuowner1991]

Did you get a chance to drive it yet?

No i got hung up pretty damn bad. Since the engine was built, the builders didn't put anti seize on the plugs. Can you guess what happened next!? .

 

[fwdmaster]

No i got hung up pretty damn bad. Since the engine was built, the builders didn't put anti seize on the plugs. Can you guess what happened next!? .

Snap city

 

[mitsuowner1991]

Snap city

I've never had a plug snap on me. Just waiting on a easy in. I got a qtr turn loosing on the threads. And it won't move. So I ordered "easy ins". So I can turn it back a qtr turn. Then out a qtr a hopefully slowly work it out.

 

[Widgmaster]

I have never heard of an easy in.... Are they not called easy outs....?

 

[mitsuowner1991]

I have never heard of an easy in.... Are they not called easy outs....?

Lol. I sorta made that word up. I already bought the #5 easy out and I got the threads to turn about a qtr turn. The reason i was asking about a "easy in" is so I can turn the threads back that qtr turn and then out again.

I was able to find a "double edge extractor" that is use for left and right threads.

 

[TerminalTalon]

That’s what happens when a torque specification is just the devils work. I’ve never seized a spark plug.

 

[mitsuowner1991]

That’s what happens when a torque specification is just the devils work. I’ve never seized a spark plug.

I wish I put them in. Because I never seized one before this either.

That’s what happens when a torque specification is just the devils work. I’ve never seized a spark plug.

And rust is the devil's work in this case. Idk how only this spark plug has rust on it. The other 3 are clean and I changed with no problem.

 

[JusMX141]

Any time the contents of the cooling system is being pushed away from the engine, it's typically the result of combustion gases entering the cooling system. You can fill the recovery tank but not have the engine drink the contents back out following expansion if there happens to be a leak in the line between the cooling system and the tank as well, even if it's a tiny pinhole leak as the pressure and volume leaving the thermostat housing will be greater than the vacuum drawing it back in as it cools.

Regarding the stuck plugs, I have no clue there...I've literally never had a seized plug issue on any overhead cam engine with sealed plug boots, anti-seize or not.

 

[mitsuowner1991]

Any time the contents of the cooling system is being pushed away from the engine, it's typically the result of combustion gases entering the cooling system. You can fill the recovery tank but not have the engine drink the contents back out following expansion if there happens to be a leak in the line between the cooling system and the tank as well, even if it's a tiny pinhole leak as the pressure and volume leaving the thermostat housing will be greater than the vacuum drawing it back in as it cools.

Regarding the stuck plugs, I have no clue there...I've literally never had a seized plug issue on any overhead cam engine with sealed plug boots, anti-seize or not.

Thank. I think I fixed the coolant problem. Did you read the post? And this is my 3rd eclipse and I never had a plug snap.

 

[JusMX141]

Any information posted doesn't always help the original poster but may aid someone else who stumbles on the thread down the road...but yes, I've had the tube fall off the cap before as well. Pretty obvious when it happens.