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2G Clutch slipping

Posted by Matts_talon, May 24, 2019

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  1. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    so i had bought my tsi as a shell with low kms on it i bought a low kms awd tsi pulled it(turbo had a bunch of shaft play and manifold was cracked)so i played to build it and it’s being kept aside at the moment, as well i got a 97gst that wasn’t in bad shape and stole the engine cause it had been rebuilt. I then provided to mate the awd tranny to the engine that came out of the gs-t, and yes if you are wondering i put all the proper plates for the starter. Now the first time i drove it to test it just up and down the street the clutch doesn’t fully engage. It almost fully grabs but it won’t catch and the clutch fork isn’t broke, and it doesn’t have a problem shifting it just won’t fully grab. What could this possibly be ???

    Any help would be great!!
    Thanks
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  2. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    Have you looked at the master cylinder?

    It could be simply low on fluid or maybe it needs an adjustment.
     

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    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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  3. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    I’ve haven’t adjusted it which i was thinking of doing but te aster should fine no leaks or anything . I was thinking it might be to far down so the rod isn’t letting enough fluid come back to the master. But before i try that i wanted other people a opinion becuase it seems to just have a problem fully engaging
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  4. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    Did you install a new clutch plate?
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse N/T
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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    2012 Murray Explorer Dune
    rwd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

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  5. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    No but i basically too all clutch and flywheel components and just installed them on another engine so they hound be all mated for each other . Am i wrong ?
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  6. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    I was asking because if that old clutch plate is very worn and used then it will not properly grab the flywheel.
     

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    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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  7. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    Very true but the clutch pate looked in pretty good condition if i had to guess I’d say it had about 10 k on it
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  8. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    Did you have the flywheel resurfaced?
     

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  9. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    No because i figured them being from the same engine they would be mates with each other
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  10. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    You need to have the flywheel resurfaced so that it will be smooth so that the clutch can grab it properly.
     

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    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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  11. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    Ok I ju
    Ok i just figured becuase it was the same clutch and flywheel it wouldn’t need to be resurfaced
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  12. Mello

    Mello Proven Member

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    If the clutch & flywheel are all the same & were working fine before you did the engine swap, I would think the resurfacing & what not is probably unnecessary. Also, the fluid & master cyclinder would be a problem with disengaement & shifting issues, not with the engagement & slipping. Start with the simple stuff and check that you have the clutch pedal properly adjusted. It is possible to get the master rod & pedal height off enough to keep the clutch from fully engaging but this is sort of uncommon. Most DSM clutch problems are with disengagement & hard/not being able to shift while running.
    Here a good YouTube video on adjusting the clutch pedal. . If the adjustment ends up being all okay then the most likely cause of not fully engaging/slipping is the clutch disc is worn, too thin, and needs to be replaced.
     
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  13. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    As well it isn’t making a normal sound tho liek its not just slipping it sounds it’s buzzing when i let the clutch out and when at WOT it does the same thing is this still just my clutch slipping or could it be something else ?
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  14. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    Alright thanks so much for the video!!
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  15. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    If the clutch/FW/PP combo was working in a previous car and nothing was changed when swapping, you have another mechanical/hydraulic problem.
    Not putting a fresh clutch set on when you had the chance seems a bit hopeful, especially if you didn't know the exact condition of the current setup.
    Make sure the clutch master is adjusted properly, and inspect the slave/fork when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

    Search: "Jack's transmissions clutch adjustment", watch the video and check stuff, then report back.
     

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  16. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    I was also readin that it could be the clutch fork and the reason i didn’t change the clutch assembly out is becuase i love in Canada so it will only be drove 6 months out of the year becuase of salt on the road and I’m building the extra block i have to be ready in 2 years so i figured i could get about 10000 not miles on in before it carped out.
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  17. 97gsxIA

    97gsxIA Proven Member

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    Get down underneath and look at the sight picture of the fork coming out of the bell housing. It should be biased toward the drivers/slave-cylinder side.
    See pic:
    armcentered.jpg

    90% of clutch engagement issues are from poor adjustment.
    If your forks in a good position, then bleed your clutch. Then bleed clutch again, and then maybe once more.
    Then adjust your master cylinder rod until you can rev the engine up to 6 or 7K without moving the wheels and your pedal engagement is a couple inches off the floor.

    Report back. Good luck.
     

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  18. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    I was also readin that it could be the clutch fork and the reason i didn’t change the clutch assembly out is becuase i love in Canada so it will only be drove 6 months out of the year becuase of salt on the road and I’m building the extra block i have to be ready in 2 years so i figured i could get about 10000 not miles on in before it carped out.
    What should i do if it’s out a bit ??
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  19. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    What should i do if it’s out ?
     

    Street Build 212  5

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  20. 97gsxIA

    97gsxIA Proven Member

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    Well.. that's the fun part.
    You can:
    Pull the trans, slap a new clutch plate and a flywheel (WITH proper step height- this is key) and replace pivot ball and clutch fork with new parts, might as well do the TOB as well.
    OR
    Pull the trans and properly shim the pivot ball
    OR
    Somehow get an open-ended wrench up through the fork window and loosen the pivot ball, then add a washer notched to make "C" and tighten it down.
    (I've only seen this successfully pulled off in-person one time) thus shimming the pivotball and moving you fork angle over.
    OR
    Adjust your pedal way out of spec and throw an extended slave rod in at the peril of your synchros. (spoiler alert: I don't recommend doing this unless you want a trans rebuild)
     

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  21. Mello

    Mello Proven Member

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    @Matts_talon be aware that most of the things suggested by the others would be applicable to grinding & hard to shift troubles. If I understand, your problem is slipping & the clutch in not fully grabbing. There are only a few things that could cause slipping/leak grabbing problems; the clucth diskis is too thin for the flywheel step height or weak springs in the pressure plate. Damaged or out of position fork, pivot ball, hydraulic air bubbles, bleeding would be sources of grinding/shifting problems and do not come into play when you are not stepping on the clutch pedal. The adjustment could be off & over tight putting some preload into the throwout bearing (whining noise) & keeping the pressure plate to fully clamp onto the disc, or the disc is worn too thin. How far is the pedal off the floor before it starts to grab? Is there any free play at the top of the pedal when not being pressed? Start simple, check the pedal adjustment and make sure it's not over adjusted. If the pedal is adjusted properly I believe the tranny will have to come out to find your slipping problem.
     
  22. Matts_talon

    Matts_talon Probationary Member

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    The whining noise you describe is what i hear but only happens when i fully let the clutch out, can you give me any specifics on how to fix this. I know you said to adjust but which way and how much. Thanks i really apricate it I’m sure that’s what it is
     

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    1997 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  23. Mello

    Mello Proven Member

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    What parts in the video are you getting confused with?
     
  24. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    This is why I recommended to search for Jack's transmissions clutch adjustment video, it is specifically for DSM transmissions and clutch hydraulic systems. It will tell you everything you need to know about adjusting your clutch.
     

    Street Build 239  3

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  25. Mello

    Mello Proven Member

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    I like Jafro's video better than Jack's.
     
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