2G Actual Clutch slipping or from bad slave?

[DevineAstral]

Hey all, I’ve tried researching my issues but it either brings more things into question and is just all around confusing so this is for clarification and some help trouble shooting.

Afew months ago I noticed my clutch was slipping in the higher gears when I’d try to accelerate.(normal driving didn’t pose any issues that I’m aware of.) and once or twice I could detect a fluid smell.(didn’t smell like a burnt clutch, smelled almost of burn oil.) I drove it as safe as I could since it was my only running vehicle at the time so I resisted the urge to ever give it WOT and just drive it like a granny.
Then afew weeks ago my slave cylinder decided to fail completely and start peeping fluid out the top of it.
My master is good and I already plan on getting a new slave cylinder. My question is (and my dads theory is.) that the slave was somehow over extending and putting fluid on to the clutch, causing it to slip and cause the burning fluid smell I mentioned before. Is this a possibility.? Or do I really have a burned out clutch and need a new one.? Money is tight is tight for me right now and I’m pulling extra hours at work, so don’t really have the means of buying a new clutch for “precautionary replacement” and do eventually plan on getting an ACT 2600 street down the road so that would be extra money that I don’t have to replace with an oem replacement clutch until I had the means to upgrade it. I can further clarify what happened or what my current situation is if needed but this is the jest of it. Any help diagnosing or troubleshooting is appreciated.
fyi:this is on a stock gst spyder with oem everything (to my knowledge) with no performance mods. My profiles up to date about actual things I’ve done to the car but I don’t think the little I’ve done should effect the drivetrain at all.

Best regards-devine

 

[ShadyDoins]

Did you or a shop at any point adjust your clutch pedal?

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

The only fluid that could possibly get onto the clutch friction disc is engine oil, and that would only happen if you had a massive rear main seal leak. Your clutch is toast. Gotta go buy a new one. They don’t last forever.

 

[DevineAstral]

Thanks for the help guys. I guess it’s time to break it open and find out then. Not sure when that will be but I’ll definitely post a follow up comment.

 

[DevineAstral]

Did you or a shop at any point adjust your clutch pedal?

I personally have not and as far as I know no one has adjusted anything prior to me purchasing the vehicle.

 

[AWD-Tony]

If this is a 4g, you won’t really smell burning fluid from a leaking slave cylinder as the exhaust is too far from the slave.

 

[ShadyDoins]

Fluid getting on your clutch would be much more likely if you had a hydraulic tob style release, if your dad is more used to domestics that's what he might be picturing. On these cars being that they have an external slave outside of the bell housing it's very unlikely even a drop of fluid could make it onto the disk let alone enough to kill it. If any fluid got on the disk it would be oil from the rear main seal.

I ask about your clutch pedal adjustment because there is a bypass valve in the master cylinder that ensures the pressure between master and slave bleeds off when your foot is fully off the clutch pedal. If the pedal is over adjusted that valve will become blocked off and pressure will remain in the line to the slave even with your foot fully off the pedal. Over time as your clutch wears it will not be able to adjust automatically and will start slipping. It is also possible that having pressure going to the slave all the time could cause premature failure of the slave. So I would at least double check the adjustment when you replace the slave.

If you have a bore scope you might be able to take the boot off and look around in there to see if you can spot any oil.

I would just replace the slave, bleed it, make sure the pedal adjustment is good and then test drive it. If it still slips it's probably shot

 

[luv2rallye]

Did you bleed the slave properly? Read "Step Two" here which many people don't realize needs doing: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772.

 

[GRNDSM]

Bad or poorly bled hydraulics will show up as very low clutch engagement and/or grinding gears.

But a badly adjusted clutch can cause clutch to slip. It will also engage unusually high. Can you collapse your slave cylinder if you push on it with your thumb?

 

[DevineAstral]

If this is a 4g, you won’t really smell burning fluid from a leaking slave cylinder as the exhaust is too far from the slave.

I was referring to when giving it WOT, whenever the clutch would slip, I would smell burnt fluid. My guess is that it possibly may be oil that everyone else is referring too.

 

[DevineAstral]

Fluid getting on your clutch would be much more likely if you had a hydraulic tob style release, if your dad is more used to domestics that's what he might be picturing. On these cars being that they have an external slave outside of the bell housing it's very unlikely even a drop of fluid could make it onto the disk let alone enough to kill it. If any fluid got on the disk it would be oil from the rear main seal.

I ask about your clutch pedal adjustment because there is a bypass valve in the master cylinder that ensures the pressure between master and slave bleeds off when your foot is fully off the clutch pedal. If the pedal is over adjusted that valve will become blocked off and pressure will remain in the line to the slave even with your foot fully off the pedal. Over time as your clutch wears it will not be able to adjust automatically and will start slipping. It is also possible that having pressure going to the slave all the time could cause premature failure of the slave. So I would at least double check the adjustment when you replace the slave.

If you have a bore scope you might be able to take the boot off and look around in there to see if you can spot any oil.

I would just replace the slave, bleed it, make sure the pedal adjustment is good and then test drive it. If it still slips it's probably shot

Thank you for the advice.! I will definitely bring it to his attention because chances are that’s what he is thinking.

 

[DevineAstral]

Did you bleed the slave properly? Read "Step Two" here which many people don't realize needs doing: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772.

I have not attempted to bleed the slave since purchasing the vehicle. It’s possible in its life time that someone else may have attempted it. I unfortunately have not had the chance to look at the car since I got it towed home a few weeks ago.(upon the slave giving out the clutch would not engage so I had it towed home instead of trying to rev match it up & down hills for the 40mi drive. Lol.)

 

[DevineAstral]

Bad or poorly bled hydraulics will show up as very low clutch engagement and/or grinding gears.

But a badly adjusted clutch can cause clutch to slip. It will also engage unusually high. Can you collapse your slave cylinder if you push on it with your thumb?

Unfortunately I have not had a chance to look at the car since getting it towed home but the next chance I get I’ll try this and follow up with everyone on what’s up.

 

[DevineAstral]

just wanting to update everyone. have not taken the car apart yet to see if it is the clutch, or a bad rear main seal. but have replaced the slave cylinder because the stock on eventually went out. properly adjusted it and car still acted like it was slipping. the slipping did get worse. have parked the car since. Plan on getting the street ACT 2100 (i dont plan on making big power with the car, so thats why i'm going the ACT 2100.) Will be updating you guys eventually whenever i actually get the kit and take it apart.