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Clutch Slipping

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Carney714

10+ Year Contributor
101
0
Jun 4, 2012
Santa Ana, California
98 gsx
Good Master Cylinder
Good Slave Cylinder
Bleed, pedal adjusted
i can push the rod back in a little at the fork

ACT lightweight flywheel 20k miles
Competition Clutch. 20k miles
TOB 20k
Fork 20k miles
pivot ball 20k

Alright. so my clutch slips. At low rpms if i try and go WOT my Rpms shoot up and speed stays the same
Higher Rpms, it does not slip. (higher than 3k? 3.5k?)

I used to have a centerforce clutch in my car but i replaced it when i build my engine with a new competition clutch
My Buddy used it for a while but one day he lost all power and we suspected the clutch which was my old centerforce clutch
Now the pictures im uploading is the centerforce clutch taken today. It doesnt look like its bad.
I wanna use this clutch again as its better (unless you guys think i should go another route ~400hp)

Is this the same clutch?
http://www.centerforce.com/products...DF536010/name/dual-friction-clutch-cover-disc
 

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did you have to adjust the pedal or linkage after the new clutch/flywheel install? properly break it in with heat cycles?
granted it was before i did my clutch/flywheel on mine but it would do the same thing would be fine for low rpm use and when i got to 3k or above it would slip like crazy. and all it really does at that point is glaze over the pressure plate and flywheel surface. My vote is that you glazed over one or both of the surfaces. but i would also check to make sure your release bearing is fully releasing and allowing the full clamping force of the clutch.
 
and two pics of my glazed and over heated pressure plate and flywheel, granted the clutch did have a ton of material left on it.
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Yea, Babied it for 1k miles cause i had a new engine. No i did not have to adjust pedal when installing my new clutch. if anything i had to adjust it to get a higher engagement point. I think my Clutch is just done. Im doing 29 psi on 91 and 23 on E85

I head the centerforce is the best street clutch out there. Any opinions on this?

I can drive and go WOT at High rpms

just bugs me when im like at 2500 rpm and itll slip

i can still use it, but i want something that will grap no matter what
 
Yea, Babied it for 1k miles cause i had a new engine. No i did not have to adjust pedal when installing my new clutch. if anything i had to adjust it to get a higher engagement point. I think my Clutch is just done. Im doing 29 psi on 91 and 23 on E85

I head the centerforce is the best street clutch out there. Any opinions on this?

I can drive and go WOT at High rpms

just bugs me when im like at 2500 rpm and itll slip

i can still use it, but i want something that will grap no matter what
Yeah sounds like a glazed over clutch. I haven't used centerforce in really long time but I've heard good things about the act 2600 clutch. My clutch is shot as well and I will be getting the act 2600 with oem throw out bearing and pivot ball.
 
i have used centerforce twice i liked it so much. easy pressure and enough holding power for anything i was running both cars were under 400 hp flywheel
 
Hope its the clutch not the flywheel. I heard mixed reviews on the act 2600. but its suppose to be good. i just used a centerforce in the past.

So should i go with the centerforce i posted up? the Dual friction one?
 
That disc pressure plate and flywheel look ok to me. The issue is that most pressure plates outside of the act ones have no more clamp load than stock. So you essentially have a stock clutch. I have done a lot of testing on this subject and have published some of my results on this site.
 
Thanks for the feedback, even for a different car. Been reading and nothing but good comments. Now i know ill be buying a good clutch that will last. This car will most likely be pushing 450 in the future. but For a long while itll be set at around 380
 
Make sure you get the step on the flywheel at the right height and if you can`t measure it yourself get it checked by someone with the proper tools. Make sure it is flat all the way from the inside to the outside. I had one cut once and the face was .611 near the steps but .616 on the inside, it was just a sloppy machining job from someone too lazy to check his setup and dress the cutting stone properly. I caught the problem before it was installed so I don`t know for certain but I think it would have had either a slipping at high power or a disengagement problem when shifting.
The other thing you should check is where the clutchfork sits once everything is together. Pivot ball shimming sometimes is required if the flywheel is thinned down from machining.
Take a look here.
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