Clutch Disengagement Problem: Need Help

[Spoolin98]

I have a done a ton of reading about Disengagement problems and Im confused as what to do...

Heres the deal, its going to be long but please read if your serious about helping me figure this out.

I had a stage 1 shep trans with no LSD, ACT 2100 pp with a street disk and a ACT streetlite flywheel. I had not problems shifting.

I upgraded to a stage 2 shep trans with quaife LSD, a southbend pp and southbend kevlar clutch. AFTER installing everything I am now finding posts that the kevlar clutch may be too thick creating Disengagement problems...

Once installed I could not get the car into gear at all. I loosened the bracket holding the shifter cables to the trans and shifted the bracket as far forward (towards the bumper) as possible. I adjusted the pedal stopper out (but still engaging the cruise switch). Then I adjusted the master rod clockwise (looking at the firewall) until it blocked the bleeder valve inside the master. I backed it off a 1/2 turn at a time till it no longer blocked the valve and I could push the slave rod in by hand. I followed the jacks transmission video.
Im still confused as to whether I did this correct or not?

First question, can you over adjust the main rod while not blocking the internal valve? Could this be my problem?

After doing these things I could now get it into gear, but it was still fighting me. Something wasnt right. So I bled the clutch line and it got a little better.
I could now drive the car but it would not let me into 1st gear unless I was rolling to a stop or at a stop I had to shift into 2nd gear first, then into first gear.
Something is still wrong. I talked to Trevor at Sheptrans and he suggested putting an extended slave rod in and adjust the main rod again. I spoke with Tim Zimmerman, TMZ performance, he suggested I drive the car easily and break the clutch in. Then readjust the main rod and I will be good to go.

My problem is that everywhere I read it states DO NOT use an extended slave rod and DO NOT drive the car with a dragging clutch. Yet both vendors are telling me to do things that are highly suggested not to do.

Some side notes:
The transmission is new so the synchros are good.
The flywheel is new, the step height was verified correct by my machinist.
The master and slave have no leaks and are fairly new, they worked before this install.
The TOB fork is a little to the right of the center of the rubber boot, closer to the slave rod.
My pivot ball is NOT shimmed because it didnt need it.
I bled the clutch by having my friend pump the pedal and hold it to the floor, then I cracked the slave valve and let fluid come out. Then I closed the valve and he would let the pedal come up and pump it again and hold it to the floor. We did this a few times. I didnt put a vacumm line into a half filled bottle like some say to do, I just put a vacumm line on and let it squirt into a bucket. I dont see the line not being bled correctly as the problem because it worked fine before.

2nd question, should I put an extended slave rod in and break in the clutch and then remove it? Maybe the break in will thin the clutch enough for proper Disengagement?

I would rather not pull the transmission to try a different clutch. Especially when TMZ is telling me im over thinking this and to just drive the car and I will be fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next?

I just found this...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

Is this how everyone bleeds their clutch lines?
I never heard of bleeding any line without pumping the pedal.
I also never heard of bleeding the slave cylinder by removing the bleeder valve.

If this is how I should be doing it, maybe this is my problem?

I also found this one.

How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering

Which is slightly different.
Either way, I never bled my system like these tell you to.

I had my friend pump my clutch and then hold to the floor, and I never "purged" the slave cylinder.

Well I guess this is number one priority, keeping my fingers crossed!

My friend has a vacumm bleeder, If I use this to bleed the clutch line do I still have to bleed the slave cylinder seperately or will the vacumm bleeder pull all the air out of the whole system?

 

[Spoolin98]

Bled the system with a vacuum bleeder, including the slave cylinder. Fresh fluid all the way through.
Im still being locked out of 1st gear.
Im using the same transmission (just rebuilt), same tob, same fork/pivot ball, same (new) flywheel. The only thing I changed was the pp and clutch.
I went from an ACT street disk and a 2100 pp to a southbend ss pp with a kevlar clutch.
So after trying everything but a longer slave rod, Im assuming the kevlar clutch is too thick and thats why its not disengaging with i push the clutch in.

Another weird thing I noticed was that after idling for a little, I can hear the tob spinning on the pp...i push the clutch in and the sound goes away.
So if the tob is riding the pp without the clutch pushed in, it should easily have enough throw to disengage the clutch.
Any ideas as to why the tob is riding the pp though? Could this be becaus the clutch disk is too thick?

Im thinking about pulling everything apart and going with an ACT 2600 and street disk. Im getting mixed reviews on this setup thought...

 

[snowborder714]

Did you check the flywheel step before installing?
Are you sure the transmission is mated properly and fully to the block?
Have you been able to shift through all gears with the shift levers directly on the transmission?
Have you tested for clutch drag?
Clutch Drag Kills Synchros! – Jacks Transmissions LLC

Sounds like your fork is in the right spot, you vacuum bled the system, and have adjusted the master cylinder properly. I agree that shimming the pivot and extended slave rod are bandaids for other actual issues, so I would stay away from them. I also understand the concern from Tim about "just driving" as you paid good money for the transmission and obviously don't want to ruin it.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'm sorry you're having these difficulties. If it matters, I'm also locked out of first since my tz-ss install. From second to first, in a rather sneaky fashion is the only way I can get around now.

I feel that the problem is the disc is too thick and then following the advice to "break it in anyway and you'll be fine" is what screws us. Not unlike being instructed to not use a shim. In this case, a small shim very well could be the difference between effing up your synchros and not.
To solve the issue without using those bandaids might mean a custom flywheel step that you'd have to measure out the disc thickness to achieve.

It's no one's fault, as far as I can tell, so I don't place blame. However, this is a real issue that is becoming more and more prevalent as more and more of these clutches get installed.
All I can really give you for advice is to NOT just break it in anyways, chances are real good your new shep stage 2 will receive a beating to the synchros. Turn the flywheel, extend the rod or shim it if you have to - even against the advice of all the vendors and gurus, no matter how unpopular those ideas have become.



inb4 Hal shows up and makes an enormous over-generalization about the workings and the ought's and ought not's of the dsm transmisison.

 

[Spoolin98]

Did you check the flywheel step before installing?
Are you sure the transmission is mated properly and fully to the block?
Have you been able to shift through all gears with the shift levers directly on the transmission?
Have you tested for clutch drag?
Clutch Drag Kills Synchros! – Jacks Transmissions LLC

Sounds like your fork is in the right spot, you vacuum bled the system, and have adjusted the master cylinder properly. I agree that shimming the pivot and extended slave rod are bandaids for other actual issues, so I would stay away from them. I also understand the concern from Tim about "just driving" as you paid good money for the transmission and obviously don't want to ruin it.

Brian,
Thanks for the response.
I double checked to make sure the transmission is fully seated to the block, all the bolts are tight.
I can shift through all the gears very easily with the motor off.
Yes I tested for clutch drag, it is in fact dragging at around 6-7k rpms.
I told Tim this and he told me to stop doing high rpm tests and drive the car. He stated to brake the clutch in and then readjust the master rod and I will be good.

I think Im going to buy a new OEM tob, pivot ball, fork.
And get a ACT 2600 with a street disk. Im not sure about this because Ive been reading a lot of mixed feelings about the 2600 pp...

I'm sorry you're having these difficulties. If it matters, I'm also locked out of first since my tz-ss install. From second to first, in a rather sneaky fashion is the only way I can get around now.

I feel that the problem is the disc is too thick and then following the advice to "break it in anyway and you'll be fine" is what screws us. Not unlike being instructed to not use a shim. In this case, a small shim very well could be the difference between effing up your synchros and not.
To solve the issue without using those bandaids might mean a custom flywheel step that you'd have to measure out the disc thickness to achieve.

It's no one's fault, as far as I can tell, so I don't place blame. However, this is a real issue that is becoming more and more prevalent as more and more of these clutches get installed.
All I can really give you for advice is to NOT just break it in anyways, chances are real good your new shep stage 2 will receive a beating to the synchros. Turn the flywheel, extend the rod or shim it if you have to - even against the advice of all the vendors and gurus, no matter how unpopular those ideas have become.



inb4 Hal shows up and makes an enormous over-generalization about the workings and the ought's and ought not's of the dsm transmisison.

I agree, I think the clutch is too thick.
The only REAL way to fix this is to have the flywheel step height increased to make more clearance for the clutch.
If Im pulling the transmission to do that, I mind as well put a different setup in there. Im not too impressed by southbend at the moment.

 

[snowborder714]

This is interesting info as my brother just installed a Southbend setup from Tim. Haven't had the chance to start it up yet, but I guess we'll see in the next weekend or two if he experiences the same thing.

 

[Spoolin98]

This is interesting info as my brother just installed a Southbend setup from Tim. Haven't had the chance to start it up yet, but I guess we'll see in the next weekend or two if he experiences the same thing.

Which pp and clutch?

 

[twicks69]

I have sold around 400 SBC clutches for the DSM platform since 2010, I would say maybe 30-40 tops have had disengagement issues on initial install and almost all of them were from the clutch hydraulics, end user installation or adjustment, improper step height, bad spring clip on clutch fork, improper installation of TOB clip, over-machined flywheels, improper installation of clutch or hanging the transmission on the disk bending the hub, weak OEM clutch hydraulic components requiring rebuilds, poor quality aftermarket clutch hydraulics, pedal assembly issues, poor quality brake fluid being used or moisture contaminated fluid used, improper torque specifications used for install, missing or loose transmission bellhousing bolts, missing or loose rear bellhousing bolt, missing or damaged bellhousing alignment dowels, excessive crank thrust play, bandage fix modifications, excessive wear of clutch fork pivot ball pocket depth or defective part, etc.

The only SBC disks that I had issues with were around two years ago when they put out a small batch of TZ/FE disks with too thick of feramic material on it. They warrantied every one of my clutches I have ever required work on, and their customer service has been stellar.

I would say that well over 90% of my SBC customers have been happy with their clutch, the smoothness of it, the power capacity of it, and the lifespan of it. That is a considerably better track record than ACT with our cars over the years.

As well, it isn't like I am the only one selling these, but I likely have the most direct experience with them in our application. It is a part, it is the end user's responsibility for installing it and adjusting it correctly. There are simply too many variables in our application that cause disengagement issues for me to make a blanket statement for fixing the problem and rarely is it the actual clutch's fault.

Mike (spoolin98) has had numerous emails/pm's with me regarding this and his transmission, I have done the best I could to help and even offer a full refund on the clutch since he is dissatisfied with it.

For reference, you are also not the first person to have disengagement issues with a clutch, do a search there are hundreds of threads and so many merged threads I have lost count or the care to think about it.

 

[DaRKSiDeGSX]

I've had and seen many people have issues with aftermarket pp/flywheel/clutches. For such a simple system it seems the DSM has a difficult bleed. I've got a vacuum bleeder, I've tried speed bleeders, I've tried gravity, I've tried having a buddy, you name it. My advice is.....

1.Check the block and transmission bolts, the slave cylinder bolts, your pedal assembly, and the master cylinder to the firewall too. have someone push the clutch to see if it's moving at all at the wall, or block to transmission. Also check in the window on the bell housing, see if the fork is hitting the transmission housing, can be as simple as this. Look for stupid things that could have gone wrong

2. Bleed the snot out of the system, start at the master cylinder "bench bleeding" move on to the fcu area or eliminate that paper weight, then bleed the slave. Go on the method of gravity first. After that adjust your pedal out to max, back it up like you said you alraedy did. try vacuuming it out the slave next, see where your at. if it's good, your good. If not, I'll try to bleed it backward I have a rubber puck with my pump that goes over the master reservoir and you put a tube from the slave to a bottle of brake fluid (i made something that hangs upside down so I don't suck air in while I do this) See where your at from there. You won't need to readjust the pedal travel again it works or it doesn't.

3. I've used extended slave rods before, I've had them not do a damn thing, I've had them make just that hair of a difference. Try it, they cost like 10.00 and I've never seen any terrible results. It CAN put the throw of the fork at a crazy angle, or bottom out on the transmission. If it works there's a chance it's the dreaded number 4 step..... or worse, the dreaded number 5 step.....

4. Shim the pivot ball, I've seen this be the case almost half as much as it was just the system was bled half assed.

5. There's something terribly wrong with the transmission you just bought, or that clutch/pp set up is going to need to be pulled and have a qualified transmission/clutch expert measure everything and figure out what is causing the issue.

This is a situation I've been in a few times it's a pain in the ass. Good luck with everything

 

[turbosax2]

Which pp and clutch?

SS-Series 2200# Pressure Plate
TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic Dual Friction Clutch Disk
ACT streetlite flywheel
New OEM tob/clip/slave/master/etc.
Competition clutch fork/pivot ball

 

[Spoolin98]

Tim,
You have been excellent through this whole ordeal.
Like you said, there are way too many variables to know the real cause.
The only thing I do know is, it worked fine before this setup. The clutch and pp are the only different parts I used.
I tried everything, except an extended slave rod.
I'm not trying that because like I previously said I can hear the TOB riding the pressure plate as is. An extended rod will only make it worse.
This isn't my first time pulling the trans in my car, I did nothing different from any other time.
I'm only blaming the clutch and pp because that's where all fingers are pointing after checking everything I was told to check...
I'm simply lost and don't know what else to do.
Trust me, the last thing I want to do is spend more money on oem parts and pull the trans again.

 

[twicks69]

Eric, measure the pivot ball pocket depth on the Competition Clutch forged clutch fork. From the metal spring retainer tab to the deepest center point of the pocket you should see around 0.525". I have several OEM forks here that are measuring around 0.500" (which is ~0.5mm difference in total depth).

As well, the OEM Mitsubishi TOB (MD749998) has a total height of 0.830" and the SBC supplied TOB has a total height of 0.830" from where the fork rides against it to the top of the friction pad that contacts the pressure plate.


For flywheel step height, 0.608-0.612" has always worked fine; I normally have mine set at 0.612" confirming height across the entire plane of the friction surface and in multiple points along the plane. The flywheel friction surface is recommended to be media blasted with 80/120 grit aluminum oxide for contact with Kevlar friction materials and is not necessary but not detrimental if done in conjunction with other friction materials like organic, ceramic, feramic, bronze, etc. It simply breaks in the Kevlar material faster. Also, if the flywheel has been resurfaced it is imperative to know how much has been taken off over its life as you may run into an issue of overextending the slave resulting in disengagement issues if the flywheel has had too much material taken off and no sort of shim/offset between the crank flange and flywheel flange to offset the flywheel back towards the TOB. New metric dowels should be used every time you do a resurface; M8x18mm are the dimensions; you can get them from McMaster-Carr (91595A555). The OEM part number is MF472404 (x3). Otherwise I stock them.

Clutch disk should be clean and visually inspected prior to installation with the sprung hub offset towards the pressure plate and the flat side towards the flywheel. In the TZ-series full face sprung hub disk you will have Kevlar on both sides; same thing goes for the B-series full face sprung hub Ceramic disk I have. The other ones I normally sell are dual friction so the Kevlar side towards the pressure plate and the Feramic/Ceramic side towards the flywheel (TZ/FE or TZ/B series). The OFE-series Organic/Feramic disk has the organic side towards the pressure plate and Feramic side towards the flywheel.

Prior to disk installation, confirm that the alignment tool is the proper diameter for the pilot hole on the flywheel for proper centering. If the hole on the flywheel is larger, measure the diameter and then use tightly wound electrical tape on the alignment tool to get the proper size with a smooth/snug fit around 0.002-0.006" endplay. This is mostly common on Quarter Master RACE flywheels which require a 0.745-0.748" diameter modified alignment tool. The QM RACE flywheel has a 0.750" diameter alignment hole. The STREET flywheels I use with the QM twin disks have a 0.590-0.592" diameter alignment hole. The ACT Streetlite flywheels have a 0.590" diameter alignment hole. The AT20 7/8" 20-spline clutch alignment tool is commonly 0.582-0.585" diameter pilot.

Flywheel installation is sort of straight forward. Inspect crank flange for flatness and irregularities. Inspect crank flange threads for damage or debris; clean out. If using a twin disk or ultra-light flywheel, measure the flywheel flange thickness and the total thread depth of the holes in the crank flange (NOT the TOTAL DEPTH of the crank flange holes; the threads do not go all the way to the bottom of the crank flange!!!) Install flywheel confirming flatness to crank flange, then using Loctote RED on the threads of the flywheel bolts (DO NOT SOAK the threads; too much is not a good thing) and hand-installing the flywheel bolts to gentle hand-tight, then something along the lines of 20ft/lbs, 60ft/lbs, 100ft/lbs torque sequence in a star pattern.

Flywheel bolt lengths and part numbers listed below:
11.7mm long Flywheel Bolts MD752272
15.2mm long Flywheel Bolts MD334117
15.5mm long Flywheel Bolts MD368638
17.0mm long Flywheel Bolts MD952233
19.5mm long Flywheel Bolts 1120A062
21.2mm long Flywheel Bolts MD302074
22.5mm long Flywheel Bolts 2795A956


During installation, the disk should be inspected for flaws, the pressure plate should also be inspected for flaws or assembly/shipping damage. A scratch is not going to hurt anything; a gash will be an issue. During installation, mount the disk, mount the pressure plate and align the disk centering it with the alignment tool, then hand-installing the pressure plate bolts (MF241251 (x6) M8x1.25mmx16mm) in a star pattern. After installation at hand-tight (GENTLE HAND TIGHT), pull the alignment tool and visually confirm that the clutch disk hub is sitting perfectly centered with the flywheel alignment hole. Then, reinstall the alignment tool and evenly hand-tighten the pressure plate bolts to 22-24 ft/lbs in a star pattern while confirming that the pressure plate is not getting bound up on the flywheel alignment dowels if they were either marred or if there is a diameter issue with the pin holes on the pressure plate causing improper alignment of the pressure plate on the flywheel.

During installation of the clutch fork; any reused fork should be thoroughly inspected at the spring retainer clip where it attaches to the clutch fork pivot ball. If it is pulling away from the fork, either hammer it flat or replace the fork. If using a Competition Clutch forged fork, order up a replacement clip. If you have the measuring abilities, measure the depth of the top of the spring clip flat spot to the center-point of the pivot ball pocket to confirm that there is not an issue with pocket depth and floppy clutch fork. These issues will ALWAYS cause disengagement issues as well as it will give you funky fork alignment in the bellhousing inspection hole. If using an OEM fork and OEM/SBC TOB, the TOB clip should be tight along the entire retaining area (~180* of contact) with the spring clip locked into the fork tab holes and clip overlapping the side tabs and complete outer edge of the TOB at the top of the fork. The Competition Clutch fork has some offset issues with the TOB clip which I have notified them about; the result of this issue is that the TOB clip doesn't contact the TOB along the entire retaining area; instead it retains it well at the sides of the TOB but it loses contact with the outer edge of the TOB at the top of the fork.

The clutch fork pivot ball is also imperative of proper shape/installation. If using an OEM pivot ball, it should measure a total length of 1.428-1.430". Top of pivot ball to top of flange should be 0.620" with a ball diameter of 0.510". The Competition Clutch forged fork supplied pivot ball has the same measurement for top of pivot ball to top of flange at 0.620" with a ball diameter of 0.508" and a total length of 1.433". ALWAYS REMOVE THE PLASTIC PROTECTIVE SPACER!! This is not an installation shim; it is there to protect the threads of the product. Use a razor blade or snips or thread it off.

Prior to installation of the clutch fork/TOB/TOB Clip, inspect the bellhousing TOB sleeve. 2G AWD transmissions have a replaceable steel sleeve pressed onto the cast aluminum bellhousing. The 1G FWD/AWD and 2G FWD units do not have a steel sleeve; it is simply the cast aluminum bellhousing sleeve. Pay special attention to the shape and wear patterns of the bellhousing sleeve because if there are wear spots, grooves, damage, etc. it will cause issues with disengagement. You will need to do some repairs with a red scotchbrite pad or severe repairs may include using a 45* or 90* die grinder with a 3" diameter Scotchbrite medium Roloc pad for reshaping, OR you will need to machine the bellhousing for installation of the 2G TOB sleeve; OR replace the bellhousing if damage is too severe.

Thoroughly grease the clutch fork pivot ball pocket and confirm that the fork SNAPS tight onto the pivot ball. You should have also lubed up the TOB inner sleeve and/or the bellhousing TOB sleeve.

Confirm proper installation of the starter plate, and the bellhousing alignment dowels (MD020260 (x2)). When installing the transmission, you should be having ZERO LOAD on the transmission input shaft and clutch disk hub. If you hang the transmission off the clutch disk and simply try kicking on or wiggling the shit out of the transmission to get it to go in; you likely have damaged the clutch disk and will cause engagement issues. If you are having an issue installing the transmission and it has zero load on the clutch disk/input shaft, then pull the transmission and confirm that the clutch disk hub is properly centered with the alignment hole on the flywheel. Install the proper length fasteners into all bellhousing attachment points INCLUDING the M8 bolt on the backside of the block that attaches to the transmission! Tighten all of these bolts to factory specs. Essentially, that means 22ft/lbs for the M8 on the back of the block and 29-30ft/lbs for the front side M10 bolts.

This is the time when you should be installing the slave cylinder and checking that the clutch fork is in the proper engagement point with it offset from center-line towards the driver-side of the transmission inspection hole. Have someone push the clutch pedal down and confirm that you are getting proper movement of the slave (off the top of my head, it should be somewhere around 0.740" of movement if I recall). If the fork is sitting towards the passenger side of the inspection hole, you have a flywheel issue, pressure plate issue, or crank endplay issue, a worn out clutch fork, a worn out pivot ball, too shallow of a TOB, etc. You can try resolving the issue by replacing any used parts, and then deal with potentially shimming the pivot ball OR the flywheel to crank flange if the flywheel has been over-cut. It may also be an issue with the flywheel step height being less than 0.608" step. If the fork is sitting way too far towards the driver side you may have a pressure plate that is not fully seated against the flywheel, bolts that are not torqued properly, a flywheel step height greater than 0.614" range, too thick of a TOB (i.e. aftermarket conical TOB's for use with the PTT and Competition Clutch twins come to mind), you might have too many shims under the pivot ball. You could also have slave function issues which is a completely different thread on a different day.

Start with these tidbits off the top of my head and we can properly discuss this in a professional manner if this information is or is not helpful during the installation of ANY clutch or for troubleshooting clutch issues.

 

[Spoolin98]

Damn Tim,
That's a lot of great info!
Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
I will take ALL of it into consideration after I remove these parts and try something different.
Do you suggest measuring all the OEM components (TOB, pivot ball, fork), even if they are brand new.
I have a micrometer, but I don't see how I could measure the depth of the pivot ball hole on the fork.

 

[twicks69]

Damn Tim,
That's a lot of great info!
Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
I will take ALL of it into consideration after I remove these parts and try something different.
Do you suggest measuring all the OEM components (TOB, pivot ball, fork), even if they are brand new.
I have a micrometer, but I don't see how I could measure the depth of the pivot ball hole on the fork.

A standard dial caliper with a depth gauge will work for the pivot ball pocket depth.

 

[turbosax2]

Eric, measure the pivot ball pocket depth on the Competition Clutch forged clutch fork. From the metal spring retainer tab to the deepest center point of the pocket you should see around 0.525". I have several OEM forks here that are measuring around 0.500" (which is ~0.5mm difference in total depth).

Mine's already buttoned up so I can't measure, I just haven't started the car since installing the clutch.

ALWAYS REMOVE THE PLASTIC PROTECTIVE SPACER!! This is not an installation shim; it is there to protect the threads of the product. Use a razor blade or snips or thread it off.

Too late for that, too. Glad they put that in their instructions In fact, I think their instructions showed it clearly with that spacer installed. And the pictures I took show the clip off of the TOB near the top. Now this thread's got me all kinds of worried.

 

[twicks69]

Meh, the world isn't ending, check where your clutch fork sits and make sure you have the pedal assembly and master cylinder rod adjusted where you are not overextending the clutch causing damage to the pressure plate and clutch disk. Worst case scenario you need to pull the trans.

 

[turbosax2]

Meh, the world isn't ending, check where your clutch fork sits and make sure you have the pedal assembly and master cylinder rod adjusted where you are not overextending the clutch causing damage to the pressure plate and clutch disk. Worst case scenario you need to pull the trans.

The clutch fork sits good and the clutch adjusted well (per Jack's video). Hopefully I'll find out this weekend if I'm in the clear or not. I hate pulling transmissions...

Sorry, didn't mean to threadjack

 

[twicks69]

Dan @ Competition Clutch says the washer is there to protect the pivot ball from bottoming out the flange of it during installation as there is a very slight chamfer on the part that when people really wrench on the pivot ball during installation they snap it in half. Dimensionally they are very similar, so adding the plastic washer is pretty much a 0.070" thick shim (~1.7mm).

Personally, I prefer no washer/no shim.

 

[Spoolin98]

Meh, the world isn't ending, check where your clutch fork sits and make sure you have the pedal assembly and master cylinder rod adjusted where you are not overextending the clutch causing damage to the pressure plate and clutch disk. Worst case scenario you need to pull the trans.

How do you check to make sure you're not overextending the clutch? Do you think this could be my problem?
I also adjusted the pedal and master rod per jacks video.

 

[Spoolin98]

The problem was a bad SBC setup, installed a new ACT 2600 setup and everything is working correctly now.

 

[lil corb]

What was bad about the SBC set up in terms of details? Installer error or part error?

 

[Spoolin98]

It wasn't install error, it was a faulty product. I tried to find out what they "repaired" but didn't get an answer.

 

[Cassanova122407]

I know it is old but I am also plaqued with a problem with my sbc setup as my engagement is right at the floor I have said screw it and been driving it for a year anyway so I guess I will try to replace my clutch eventually and see where it gets me there is so much great info in this thread im glad I finally found it.

 

[twicks69]

I know it is old but I am also plaqued with a problem with my sbc setup as my engagement is right at the floor I have said screw it and been driving it for a year anyway so I guess I will try to replace my clutch eventually and see where it gets me there is so much great info in this thread im glad I finally found it.

Just so you know we can always send the clutch to SBC and we can change the release window of the clutch. Overall it has a narrow release window in comparison to an ACT but has a softer pedal feel.