Clutch disengagement gear selecting problem

[SBstar]

Alright, yes I've done my research but I have a few simple questions first that I can't find the definitive answers on. I was a noob to DSM drivetrains when I started this project so don't yell too loud. Alright the background, I installed a new transmission back in December of last year, have yet to drive with the new trans though as I just got the car running about a month ago. When i put everything back together and got the car running I noticed I could shift into all the gears with the car off but couldn't select any gears with the car running, it would just grind trying towards reverse 3rd and 5th. I looked closer at the tranny and I believed my problem to be that it is actually a 91-94 trans instead of a 90. I also noticed my clutch pedal has about 2 inches of play at the top (won't return to top will get stuck at that point once the pedal is released). I checked to see if I needed to fix the clutch pedal assembly and it is not that, the master cylinder rod moves as soon as you start to depress the pedal. I thought maybe I needed a new Master cylinder as well. I went out and got a new master cylinder and the 91 shifter cables and shifter assembly. I finally installed those today and tried the car out. I bled the clutch as per the tech guide so I know its done properly (the slave cylinder seems to go all the way out when the pedal is depressed as well). I still have the 2 inches of play at the top of the pedal though, even with the new master cylinder. The car will move forward with the clutch depressed if I pull it towards 4th or 2nd gear, but does not move when I put it in first and start the car. I did not resurface the flywheel when I put the new trans and ACT 2600 clutch in (which was used). I have a few guesses but I'm hoping someone will give me some pretty good advice. Oh yeah and it will still grind if forced towards reverse.

A. The improperly stepped flywheel is causing the clutch to not disengage. (I have an ACT chromoly flywheel I'm going to throw in there ASAP)
B. Bent clutch fork
C. Need to shim the fork with a washer (RRE)
D. Something isn't right with the 90 or 91-94 tranny issue
E. throwout bearing???
Any other suggestions before I tear the tranny off again? What I can't figure out is with both shifter assemblies and cables the car will move forward with the clutch depressed if I pull it towards 2nd or 4th, but tried starting it in first (again both shifters and cables) and it won't move forward, which is the supposed test for clutch disengagement problems. Thanks guys and gals.

 

[Dream On]

Definately resurface or put in that other flywheel, and put in a new clutch fork and pivot ball. If the cables and the pedal assembly are ok, it should fix your problem, unless something is wrong with the used clutch.

 

[TSIfreek]

Make double sure your slave and master cylinders are not leaking. Shim the pivit ball with a washer if you have not done so. I would have the flywheel step height checked while I had the trany out takes 2 seconds at a machine shop.

 

[SBstar]

Well what I've decided to do is install the ACT flywheel (which is stepped correctly), obviously while in there I'll check the fork and pivot ball (will also shim the pivot ball with a washer) And inspect the clutch and make sure it is ok. I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

[TSIfreek]

Have the step height checked even though its new. I would rather know than not.

 

[topstreet]

I also noticed my clutch pedal has about 2 inches of play at the top (won't return to top will get stuck at that point once the pedal is released).

A. The improperly stepped flywheel is causing the clutch to not disengage. (I have an ACT chromoly flywheel I'm going to throw in there ASAP)
B. Bent clutch fork
C. Need to shim the fork with a washer (RRE)
D. Something isn't right with the 90 or 91-94 tranny issue
E. throwout bearing???
Any other suggestions before I tear the tranny off again? What I can't figure out is with both shifter assemblies and cables the car will move forward with the clutch depressed if I pull it towards 2nd or 4th, but tried starting it in first (again both shifters and cables) and it won't move forward, which is the supposed test for clutch disengagement problems. Thanks guys and gals.

The 2 inches of play sounds like a possible master adjustment. Did you mess with this at all?

A: If it was driving before, I doubt it wouldnt drive now. (maybe it wouldnt hold 500ft/lbs trq)

B: Maybe, I like to really inspect these for wear when there out. How did yours look? If you are questioning it and its old, I would get a new one.

C: I usually have good luck with 1 washer around .060"

D: Im not an expert on this but I believe that it would have an issue popping out if it were a cable issue, not going in while you are not moving.

E: Was this replaced at the time of install? I would definitly put one in if you are putting that flywheel on, Along with the NEW fulcrum ball and shim and clutch fork. I always use a marine synth. grease at the throw out bearing surfaces, ball, and TOB trans shaft.

Otherwise, before you pull that thing, if you have not adjusted the master I would definitly do this before you do anything else. I just kindof go by feel: Loosen the lock nut on the master, spin the nut back by hand and use a small wrench or plyers to get the rod to the point that you can move it with your fingers. I will twist it out (extending a greater distance from pedal to master) until you just barely snug it up against the pressure in the master. Dont force it at this point, just bring the lock nut back and tighten it down.

That method has always worked for me.

I really hope this helps. I will try and keep an eye on your topic for updates. Otherwise, PM me to get my attention.

Jake

 

[SBstar]

The clutch was installed at the same time as the trans which is why I suspect the improperly stepped flywheel to be the problem, the clutch fork seemed ok but this was only my second time inside a trans and the first was on a 2G non turbo talon, I'll definately inspect it better this time around, the throwout bearing came with the used clutch I will replace it while I'm in there, I will also put a washer on to shim the clutch fork. The master cylinder is adjust out far enough where the pedal won't come up any higher (hits its stopping point) should I adjust it to where the rod is actually starting to go into the master cylinder with the pedal all the way out? I'm guessing this might be a problem in and of itself since from what you are suggesting I want it to snug better. I appreciate all the help guys. I'll keep you all updated as soon as I can get back to the car (4 days of college first, might sneak over at night)