Possible clutch disengagement problem? Video..

[____Kurt____]

I know there are a million threads on this but I'm kind of in a time crunch and need some answers now. I have the time and help to pull my Trans right now if needed to shim pivot ball but I won't if its not needed. This is a PTT twin disk and a forged fork with Isuzu slave and a brand new welded pedal assembly properly adjusted according to jacks Trans. Now my question is, is this enough disengagement for the clutch to not be dragging or should there be more? This is with the pedal all the way down. The car has yet to be started yet and I want to fix this before I put Trans fluid in it. Should I shim or leave it?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT4bI2QYih4]Clutch disengagement problems - YouTube[/ame]

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Just pulled it and put 3 washers. It still has some play. I was spinning the engine over by hand and I could see it was disengaging from the input shaft.
Sorry for the rant of a thread.

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[ulitka]

The best test is to leave the car off the floor on 4 jacks. Set your rev lunch limiter to 7K rpm or more if possible. Warm up the engine. Release hand brake if engaged. Have a friend watch the wheels for movement. While engine running press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, shift to 1st gear and rev engine all the way to rev limiter. Wheels should not move. If wheels moved, then your clutch is dragging.
NOTE: for accuracy of the test, warm up transmission fluid before the test. Drive around, then lift the car or while car is in the air simulate a driving condition. It should not take long to warm up the fluid.