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close to 12's with my 14B FWD

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I agree with everyone saying no lift to shift, should break you into the 12's almost on its own as well as maybe some more weight reduction (what do you have done so far?) An LSD or built tranny w/lsd would be great! Your mods look good so I would suggest maybe cams (264's since you wouldn't have to dial them in) and an extrude honed intake manifold, put those together and you'll be ready to rumble with more airflow. Of course the last two suggestions cost more money then you want to spend.

Oh yeah the SMIM (whoops had to edit that silly me) isn't a great way to go with the 14b (not enough flow) which is why I say extrude honed even though for the price you could almost get a SMIM. If you plan on going bigger turbo soon then I suggest just the cams.
 
Whats even more amazing is that I did a compression test the otherday and came up with 130/110/120/120 with the throttle open. I'm trying to work out some other bugs right now but hoepfully i'll still be at the track this wednesday.
 
DSMcamaro said:
picked up a nt FRP. What the differnce in pressure between the turbo and non-turbo?


Correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't the nt FPR not raise fuel pressure on a 1:1 basis with boost? I'm almost certian that's the case, can someone back me up? If this is the case thats not the one you want to use. A 2g turbo one however runs either 42.5 or 43.5 base pressure and definately is the 1:1 rising ratio with fuel pressure.
 
I've had the NT regulator on for a couple weeks now and its seem to run fine. I had other tuning issues due to bad vacuum line and the change in weather, but yea, I would still like to know the difference between the turbo and NT FPR.
 
Why wont you change your injectors?

I would suggest NLTS style of driving, never take you foot off the gas. But you have to be extremly fast and be able to shift good.

I NLTS from 3rd going into 4th, my trans doesnt like it in any other gears....I wish I had a eprom..




This is what I would do, get a EPROM with a stage 3 chip and set the sutter box to 4,500 and use the No lift to shift feature in the chip. Thats the easy way out if your not a very fast shifter.
 
DSMcamaro said:
I've had the NT regulator on for a couple weeks now and its seem to run fine. I had other tuning issues due to bad vacuum line and the change in weather, but yea, I would still like to know the difference between the turbo and NT FPR.


I would seriously look into that. You want an extra 1 psi of fuel pressure for each lb of boost so they rise linearly together. So if you have say 43 psi of fuel pressure and then 20 lbs of boost. Youd want 63 psi of fuel pressure for that.
 
Alright after further searching I guess the N/T is closer to 47-48 psi. Many have done it with good/alright results. You will need to tune for the added fuel! I believe it raises pressure on a 1:1 basis as it is a rising rate regulator. But again if you do not tune for it you will run too rich.
Edit: wow there is a lot of conflicting opinions/information on this site! From another thread it says it does not deal well with boost and is not a good idea, here is a couple links.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16816&highlight=N/T+fuel+pressure+regulator

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72983&highlight=N/T+fuel+pressure+regulator

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227926&highlight=N/T+fuel+pressure+regulator
 
JOEY A said:
Why wont you change your injectors?
I dont need too...yet. They are not completely maxed out. I like pushing things too their max:D hence the 14B
SBstar said:
Alright after further searching I guess the N/T is closer to 47-48 psi. Many have done it with good/alright results. You will need to tune for the added fuel! I believe it raises pressure on a 1:1 basis as it is a rising rate regulator. But again if you do not tune for it you will run too rich.
Edit: wow there is a lot of conflicting opinions/information on this site! From another thread it says it does not deal well with boost and is not a good idea, here is a couple links.
alright, thanks for the info, I have a logger and a MAFT and I leaned it out because of the regulator and the cold weather we've been seeing lately in WI. Im going to the track tonight... wish me luck.

"The NT FPR has a base pressure of 47 psi, and is rising rate." according to kpt4321. So since i can compesate for the base pressure with my MAFT i should be ok right? eitherway, I'll watch knock and bring my old turbo FPR with me.
 
Now I know why people were so impressed with the 1.8 60' time. Poor track prep and shitty weather made it impossible for me to get better than a 2.0 with the slicks. best 60' 2.1 :cry: , best e/t 13.6. Once it hooked it was great, but i couldnt launch like i did the last time i was at the track. I would have to try and feather the gas a little to keep the slick from breaking loose before they would finally hook up. I could really use an LSD and better tranny.
 
Spiking??? Have you figured out why its doing that yet? I would assume your running racing fuel correct? (Sorry if I missed this earlier in the thread) You should be able to turn it up to 21-25 correctly tuned, but I might be worried about the spiking.
 
21-25 on a 14B? It spikes because I have a turbo XS MBC. I added a gallon of 110 at the track.
 
Ah crap! I was pulling for you. Sometimes you just lose the track. When track conditions are bad and you still want to run, that's a good time to work on things like no lift shifting :sneaky: . Good luck for next time.

MB

And, no offense meant, but I feel better about your 60' times now :p (JK)
 
You would want to run only 110 if you were going to turn up the boost to 21-25. Joseph Bucci's fwd holds the record for 14b no nitrous (and with nitrous) times and he was running 25 psi. Some people will argue this is beyond the 14b's limits but its tough to argue with a car that ran 10's on it (albeit that car was significantly lightened and driven by what I would consider a professional driver). I would suggest getting a better MBC and then thinking about a set of cams in the power dept. (HKS 264's or Crower 413's are considered good for 14b's anything bigger is too much) and possibly an Extrude Honed intake mani. As for your trans an LSD is a must for you and getting a built transmission is always a good insurance. Just some future mods to consider if you plan on sticking with the good ol 14b :D
 
1.8 60ft is damn impressive :thumb: Are you still on the stock fuel pump?
 
redfury said:
1.8 60ft is damn impressive :thumb: Are you still on the stock fuel pump?
No, warblo 190. And yes, the track was awesome that day... to bad it wasnt as good yesturday.

I really dont know what to do anymore. I wish I just would of hit a 12 last night so I could just stop moding my damn daily driver! I picked up a set of HKS 264 cams yesturday and might just have to put them in before oct. 8th(the next time I can go to the track) I also have a spare tranny that I bought and if I wasnt in school right now, I would throw the thing in and see if it shifts any better than my current tranny because im pretty sure 3rd gear syncros are going out of my current tranny. I should also just weld the diff while im at it. I dunno, too much work for my daily driver. I also have a better boost controller on the way.
 
Sweet dude, I need to get my 264's installed, problem is I only have an intake because the jerk who sold them to me sent me the 264 intake and a stock exhaust cam. The cams will help you out on that top end and hopefully net you little bit better times. The huge difference will come from that transmission though so that might be your best plan of action. That and getting your launches down pat.
 
Wheelspin, eh? Was one wheel spinning more than the other? If so, I know something quick and easy that can help a little.
 
pneumo said:
Wheelspin, eh? Was one wheel spinning more than the other? If so, I know something quick and easy that can help a little.
like a welded center diff?
 
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