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close to 12's with my 14B FWD

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DSMcamaro

15+ Year Contributor
1,049
25
Feb 25, 2005
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
My best time was a 13.110 @ 104.923 mph with a 1.865 60'. Stock head, cams, injectors shortblock. I'm very excited and happy to be in the low 13's but now I'm kinda stuck in a tuff stop. I really want to hit 12's yet this year but I dont really know what else I can do for mods. I want to stick with the 14B and the stock injectors.

video * http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237753
 
Well by looking at your mod list you might want to consider LSD. that might help with your already good 60' times. How about some mild weight reduction? There are quite a few things that you can do. Hopefully your profile is up to date.
 
My profile is up to date. I also did remove alot of my interior including spare tire and all seats besides driver. And if I could only spend a couple hundred bucks instead of like $800 (lsd) that would be great.
 
really good times man! :thumb:
wish i was there to see it


drop the exhaust :shhh:


well atleast that wont cost anything...

do you have a nice tune on the race gas?? how much PSI/Timing/knock

some better tuning equipment, like say a keydriver or dsmlink for more tuning capibilities..

LSD would help, but its expensive if you want a good one

other things u could do, a rewire and FPR for better fuel control.

you are due for a turbo / Injector upgrade ... You would gain the most from those things.

but you said u wanted to stick with the 14b/stock injetors, you could do cams/SMIM but gains are not as great on the stock turbo.


good luck:thumb:
 
Even an LSD insert (like a phantom grip) would be helpful and i believe they are under 300 dollars instead of said LSD for 800 dollars. Worth a shot and i hear that they work.
 
even an LSD insert would probably knock you into the 12's. I think a set of cams would get you there as well.


^^^guy above me beat me to it, haha
 
I would either get a real LSD or just weld the differential on one of my spare trannys before i'd waste my money on a phontom grip. maybe some skinnys on the rear and all out weight ruduction?
 
Nelsons91AWD said:
do you have a nice tune on the race gas?? how much PSI/Timing/knock

My damn logger was dead so i couldnt tell you knock/timing with the race gas. My boost spikes around 19 and levels off to 17. doing some logs on the street my timing was around 18-20 degrees and depending on the outside air temp, I usally have 0-3 knock.
 
That's a nice 60' time.:thumb: Are you getting any wheelspin? If you are, try to remove all weight above and behind the rear axle. Any weight removed from this area actually adds weight to the front wheels. Every little bit helps.

How about a NT FPR to raise the pressure and add a little more fuel? More fuel = more boost. When I used stock injectors to get into the 11's I had the pressure up to 48-50ish psi.

Your trap speed is just above the point where it'll pay off to shift into 4th. With stock cams and stock ecu I'd suggest trying the 3>4 shift around 6100 rpm. The nice thing about running a 14b is that the shift points are low enough so a stock tranny has half a chance of shifting good.
 
I only broke the slicks loose once and it was towards the end of the night and I was launching pretty high. I also have the KYB sturt and I had them all set as stiff as they could go. I know I want the rear as as stiff as possible but im not sure about the fronts. Should they be set real stiff aswell to keep the front end from jumping up and down between shifts or really soft to kinda keep more wieght towards the front of the car?
 
I like the fact you are choosing to stick with the 14b instead of taking the easy way out like most people including myself.LOL. Nice 60ft. If you think you could improve that by just 1/10th of a second that should put you in the 12's. Also how are you shifting? You probably already know that your take off decides tremendously how well your quarter mile times are. So your 1-2 shift is very important in making good numbers. With that said I would recommend power shifting(dont lift on the gas pedal) on the 1-2 shift if you arent already. It took off 3/10ths in my 1/4 mile times when I started doing it.
 
To be completely honest I don't think im the best at shifting. But im practicing to get better. Having the stock tranny with 180,000 miles on it probably doenst help my shifting capabilities either. I know how big a diffence shifting can make since I shifted too soon out of first a couple times and only ran a 13.7 because it bogged a little going into 2nd. I really wish I would of hit 4th gear the first time I tryed it... I went for it and hesitated/couldnt drop it in and still managed a 13.4 @ 100 mph.... that run probably would of been a 12 if I would of hit 4th. (assuming I shifted at the right RPM range) I'm not power shifting, but I'll probably give it a shot next time I go to the track, which should be Sep 13th hopefully. I'm also assuming outside air temps are making a difference sinse I got faster as the night went on. It was probably about 70 degrees towards the end of the night and about 80 at the begining. Thanks for the advice.
 
Put the skinniest tires you can get on the back and fill them up to about 45 lbs. Cuts down on contact patch and friction. Hard adjustment for shocks in the back and soft in front. Front end alignment (put the camber out a couple of degrees if you want for the launch and shifts). No lift shifting. If you are getting excessive wheelspin (not just for launch but also for shifts), try lowering tire pressure. LSD will help but like they all said, costly. Weight reduction. Make sure that your engine heat is not getting into your intake (i.e. CAI type intake). Of course, you know that your shift points are important but they are specific to each car set-up. Only you will know.

Now the important part; How the hell do you get that kind of FWD launch?! My launches are pissing me off! I know I'm NA but I should be able to launch better than a 2.0 on slicks(I've hit one 1.9)! Now I've only run slicks one day of racing, but still! Aurgh! I'm so jealous.

MB
 
I'm in the process of looking for some cheap skinnys for the rear. I also have a CAI already. I guess launching at 4500-4600 rpms:D and getting the slicks to stick is what will net you some 1.8 60's. I'm also thinking about taking off my alternator and power stearing belt when I go back.
 
DSMcamaro said:
I'm in the process of looking for some cheap skinnys for the rear. I also have a CAI already. I guess launching at 4500 rpms:D and getting the slicks to stick is what will net you some 1.8 60's. I'm also thinking about taking off my alternator and power stearing belt when I go back.


whats you overall goal for your car?

you could completly remove the PS. drop a lil weight, and like you said free up some more power..


anything else you thinking about trying?
 
Nice 60ft, real nice, I wish I had 2.0, but last time I ran a 2.4 and broke the diff...

Anyhow, I'd suggest you work on your shifting, shift around 6k rpm after 2nd gear... anything after 6k rpm on 3rd gear doesn't really help on a 14b/stock cammed motor.

Look hard on your car for more weight reduction, im sure there's something you can take off a few years back taking my rear seat and passenger seat knock off .2 seconds of my slip on the 1/8 (I went from 9.9 to 9.7 the same night, same 60ft, etc) night time racing is always better for denser air (you know that)

Keep it up!

PS: hey do you have any wheel hop issues with your slicks compared to what you could have on you 17"s...?
 
Nelsons91AWD said:
whats you overall goal for your car?
To stop modifying it:p I really should since my daily driver and I use it for pizza deliverly for crying outloud. I'd really just like to get it into the 12s with stock injectors and the 14B. I want to find a new FWD car to build for an all out drag car but still semi street legal.. The sooner I found another car the soon i'll stop modifying my DD.
ivanr4g63 said:
PS: hey do you have any wheel hop issues with your slicks compared to what you could have on you 17"s...?
Zero wheel hop with the slicks. The 17's hoped like mad on the streets but not too bad at the track.
 
Another trick to getting quick shifts is to focus on quick clutch pedal action. It's easy to pull the shifter quickly, but if your clutchwork is slow, the whole shift will be slow. Your clutchfoot has to be very fast since it has to move farther than the shifter. Try to picture this in your head: when it's time to shift, the clutch foot and shifter start to move at the same time, when the shifter reaches the neutral position the clutch pedal is all the way down. Then as the shifter moves from the neutral position into the next gear the clutch pedal should be on it's way back up so that when the clutch hits the engagement point the shifter is in gear. This should all happen very quickly when done right.

Wear firm soled shoes like court or skate shoes. Don't wear squishy running shoes. :barf: Move your seat up NASCAR style so you can reach the pedals and shifter while your back is planted firmly against the seat. HTH I'm hoping you can do it, so close already.
 
LOL, thats exactly why I missed 3rd like three times in a row the first night I went drag racing. Now that I have the short throw shifter, I can't move my foot fast enough to keep up with my shifts. A missed shift means your moving your arm to slowly, not that your moving your foot to fast.

ps: I've found that driving in flip flops is the best, because you can take them off and go bare foot. When I drive bare foot, its like theres no mistery whats going on, I can feel everything.

I would also like to mention that if you drive bare foot a lot, and then put your shoes back on, remember your shoes are about 3/4 of an inch thick, so the pedel is farther down than you think. Caused me to race someone on accident once. auto-rev....
 
I know that we are giving you a bunch of stuff to work with, but I honestly believe that you have the 12's if you just learn to no lift shift. I started with the car off and just sat there and forced my leg to stay down as I shifted. Then practiced at like 4k 1st to 2nd (the easiest to speed shift). Then work your way up. I learned this on a mustang (which has a shifter like a mack truck compared to these).

I'm still pissed/jealous of your launch times. I know my times are pretty good for a FWD BUT......not good enough. My launch point is 4500, also! I was down to 10lbs in the tires at one time, LOL. I gotta go to NED (which has a much better launching pad).

Good luck and I always pull for the little guy (14b),

MB
 
If it doesnt rain on the 13 of September I'll be at the track. So until then I guess I just need patience. I'll keep everyone updated and thanks to everyone for all the advice.
 
wouldnt it be smarter that instead of him paying 800 for lsd that hed just get the whole stage 2 race tranny from shepherd for like 12 hundred that includes lsd and get off of that 180kmiles tranny ( or whatever it was ) because i know a race tranny will net better times since theres much cleaner more solid shifts, because even on my car getting into 2nd sometimes is a little rough and you have to force it in there and it grinds horribly..
And then id say he should put the n/t regulator like the other guy was saying to increase fp, and then maybe try raising the boost from 18 to 19 or 20 and lighten his car as much as possible and then im sure hed get into the 12s then, at least another 30 more whp should do it.
 
nightspeed87 said:
wouldnt it be smarter that instead of him paying 800 for lsd that hed just get the whole stage 2 race tranny from shepherd for like 12 hundred that includes lsd and get off of that 180kmiles tranny ( or whatever it was ) because i know a race tranny will net better times since theres much cleaner more solid shifts, because even on my car getting into 2nd sometimes is a little rough and you have to force it in there and it grinds horribly..
And then id say he should put the n/t regulator like the other guy was saying to increase fp, and then maybe try raising the boost from 18 to 19 or 20 and lighten his car as much as possible and then im sure hed get into the 12s then, at least another 30 more whp should do it.
maybe if the stage 2 did only cost $1200 but it dont. This is from his website: This is our street/strip fwd trans. It has all the good stuff from our stage 1 and it also comes complete with a true limited slip front differential and the heavy duty 3-4 conversion. We have customers in the 10's with this setup.



Price: $1995.00 - plus $80 shipping and insurance
 
pneumo said:
How about a NT FPR to raise the pressure and add a little more fuel?
picked up a nt FRP. What the differnce in pressure between the turbo and non-turbo?
 
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