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420A Check Engine Light blinking?

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SurrealDSM

15+ Year Contributor
141
1
Feb 21, 2005
La Habra, California
I was on my way home from work yesterday and as I come off the freeway my car starts making all sorts of puttering sounds from the exhaust, sort of rumbling like a subaru and then my check engine light starts blinking. As soon as I get home I look under my car and my cat is bright cherry red so now I figured it was my plugs so I change the plugs start up my car and it turns on and idles fine. When I rev it up a little to check to see if it's okay to go now, it starts puttering all over again. I'm almost out of ideas, I'm gonna go get some new wires.

I guess my question to you guys is what would cause my car to do this and the check engine light to blink? Is my cat turning red from being clogged or from raw fuel getting in?

please help! :cry:
 
Could be something like your MAP sensor taking a shit, but im not holding to that, and the cat at this point probably safe to say is junk, better safe then sorry. Obvioulsy the first thing i wouldve done is find out what code got tripped and go from there.......
 
The blinking is telling you that its a missfire of one or more cylinders and it is bad enough to damage your cat. Hope that helps.

If you still have a cat in your car I wouldn't drive it until you check it
 
Do the keydance like X suggested. That should get you moving in the right direction.

A clogged cat can cause problems, but I don't know if you're experiencing them right now (not much experience in that realm). It might be worth disconnecting the exhaust pipe at the cat inlet and seeing how things go.

Obviously, you can be researching the codes you get while you wait for the system to cool down.
 
Take it to AutoZone and tell them you need to have you check engine light read. It's free... Then depending on the codes you get, go from there.

...or just do the keydance as we've already stated. It's free too :toobad:
 
You will find codes P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 or P0304 I'm sure

Well, that's sure helpful. You don't need a CEL to know if the engine is missing. Pretty obvious that something is wrong. CEL flashes during active, severe misfire. Most of the time, it's because someone hosed off his engine and the water that got into the spark plug wells begins to boil up into the connection, shorting the spark to ground.

In this case, I would suspect that there is something wrong with the "new" cat. Let me put it this way, Has anyone in here ever had a cat - new or old - get red hot on their 2GNT?

I've never heard of that happening. This is what I would do if I were in you, OP.

1. Do the keydance. Get the codes. DON'T DRIVE THE CAR ANYWHERE (including Autozone).
2. Look the codes up here.
3. Share the codes with us so we can get cracking on them for you.
4. Once your exhaust is cool, unbolt that cat at the downpipe and reset the ECU.
5. Fire the car up (it will be loud) and see if the same problem happens. If not, then take that car back to the shop that installed your cat and demand they fix the problem.
 
Exactly my point, if your car is jacked up, why even drive it to AutoZone to see some codes, when the wonderful almighty keydance is at your grasps. Heed our advice, and we'll be better suited to help you in the long run, and keep anything else from happening to your ride as well :thumb:
 
sorry for the delay ive been extremely busy with work but here are the number i got as follows 1 2 4 3 4 3 3 2 7 2 5 5

12 - Direct power input to the PCM has been disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles

43 - Ignition coil #1 primary circuit or cylinder misfires

43 - Ignition coil #2 primary circuit or cylinder misfires

32 - EGR solenoid circuit *I have an EGR Block Off Kit I'm assuming this threw this light*

72 - This one I don't know

55 - End of codes :)
 
72 is cat-related. I know it's not on the table on 2GNT, but I need to add it. Searching 2GNT for "Keydance 72" brings up threads about it. So your cat is definitely a problem.

You are correct about the EGR code, so don't even worry about that one. Disconnect the exhaust where it goes into the cat and see if you still get the misfires after you clear the codes (disconnect the battery for 30 seconds). If you don't get the misfire, then it's a safe bet that the cat you've got it shit. You might still get the code for cat while the pipe is disconnected, but if you fix this misfire problem, it's time to take the car back to the shop that did the cat install. Something is very wrong with the work they did.
 
so just to be sure i should replace my coil and disconnect my cat correct? i took off the coil and took it to autozone for testing and everythign was good except for the primary also once the misfire is corrected with the coil would it be safe to drive with my cat in that condition? becasue im defintley taking it back to the shop before MOD saturday
 
Just a thought, but was your replacement cat welded on? A few companies out there make directional catalytic converters.

Code 43 doesn't just mean cylinder misfire. It's very general and could be caused by a cam sensor, crank sensor, asd relay, 02 sensor. If your throwing 2 of them like you are, I doubt its from a bad coil pack. I would test each harness before I went and bought a non returnable electrical part.
 
Sorry to bring up an old topic, but you all seem knowledgeable in this field.

I have a 98 Eclipse 2.0L NT. Once in a while when I start my car the engine light will be blinking and the car is really shaky if you give gas. If you turn the car off and start it again it is fine. I tried the keydance method, but the engine light does not blink any after the method has been performed. If the light is not constantly on can Autozone still pull codes? Any ideas on what I should do to stop this from occurring?

Thank you,
Jared
 
The keydance does not work on many newer model 2gnt's. :( The ECU stores a code for a number of power cycles, to make it easier to diagnose intermittent problems. Go ahead and have the AutoZone (or whomever) pull the codes.
 
The keydance does not work on many newer model 2gnt's. :( The ECU stores a code for a number of power cycles, to make it easier to diagnose intermittent problems. Go ahead and have the AutoZone (or whomever) pull the codes.

I went to Autozone and the system said there were no faults. I checked my coil pack with a multimeter and the ohms were within spec. The primary is a little tough to get an accurate reading since it tended to fluctuate a little bit if you moved the leads. Seemed to be pretty steady at .5 or .6 if you held the leads still. What are the main culprits of a blinking CEL typically or are there too many to say?

Thanks,
Jared
 
What are the main culprits of a blinking CEL typically or are there too many to say?

The main culprit of a blinking CEL is a Misfire in 1 or more cylinders. So anything that can result in a misfire could cause a blinking CEL. I would go ahead and check you spark plug wires and the plugs electrode and gap why your in there. It will take maybe 20 minutes total. then We will go from there.
 
The main culprit of a blinking CEL is a Misfire in 1 or more cylinders. So anything that can result in a misfire could cause a blinking CEL. I would go ahead and check you spark plug wires and the plugs electrode and gap why your in there. It will take maybe 20 minutes total. then We will go from there.

I will check that when I get back to Oklahoma. I'm on vacation in Florida enjoying the warm weather for now LOL. I think the wires are under warranty so maybe I will just get them to give me a new pair. Thanks for the input!

Jared
 
i just got the cat replaced 4 days ago =/ i was also leaning towards the clogged cat but i just replaced it so i dont know if its possible to get it clogged that qucik

the cat is one part on a car that wont go bad unless something else takes it out, if you replace a plugged cat without fixing what caused it to plug your just gonna take that one out too
 
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