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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Anyone want to tell me how a bad coolant temp sensor makes you consume/lose coolant? That would be great.


Do a compression test, this will let you know for sure if it's a headgasket.


It's kind of important to check this, you don't want to zip out bearings from coolant tainted oil.

If that is good, I'd put a coolant flushing tee in the rad hose and flush out the system to make sure there is no blockages, it could also be a water pump failure. I've actually seen them work fine when idling, but as soon as you get on it, it doesn't do it's job.

Is this a factory temp thermostat you put into it?

If it is a head gasket, replacing it is not that hard, so do not worry.

:thumb:
 
ok so I got a 95 nt talon. I just replaced the timing belt and waterpump with a new thermostat the previous problem I was having was my overflow tank overflowing and when I shut the car off it would bubble/boil over til the pressure subsided. well it is now lessoned but still bubbles AIR when I turn it off but I think I have bled the air out of it. I don't have one of those spilless funnels so I just filled it up warmed it up and let it run till the air stopped and let the coolant/ mostly water flowed over the side of the radiator cap hole. since my bleeder is stuck on there. the only thing I can think of now would be the cap itself getting stuck open but then sometimes ill drive it and my overflow tank will be almost empty. any ideas?
 
ok so I got a 95 nt talon. I just replaced the timing belt and waterpump with a new thermostat the previous problem I was having was my overflow tank overflowing and when I shut the car off it would bubble/boil over til the pressure subsided. well it is now lessoned but still bubbles AIR when I turn it off but I think I have bled the air out of it. I don't have one of those spilless funnels so I just filled it up warmed it up and let it run till the air stopped and let the coolant/ mostly water flowed over the side of the radiator cap hole. since my bleeder is stuck on there. the only thing I can think of now would be the cap itself getting stuck open but then sometimes ill drive it and my overflow tank will be almost empty. any ideas?

Try a leakdown test to determine if this is a head gasket issue. Often times a cracked/blown gasket will push hot combustion gases into the water jackets resulting in the exact problem you have here.
 
leaked it down they are running between 126psi UGH and 140 something. and idk if its my crappy leakdown tester or if they all have a leak... what do you think?
 
First try changing your radiator cap. Could be that its not holding the pressure. If the problem still persist, get a Compression Test done on the engine. Your head gasket might be blown
 
i wouldn't think its my headgasket it runs great and is deff fast for those types of compression lvls I think my leakdown tester sucks. so ill try the cap before I pull the motor and rip it apart

new cap... still bubbles bout 1 bubble per 1.5 sec. haven't done it with the new cap but on the old one (which I assume was still good) when I take it off after it has cooled down it still relieves pressure. IDK I really don't want to do this repair.
 
leaked it down they are running between 126psi UGH and 140 something. and idk if its my crappy leakdown tester or if they all have a leak... what do you think?

sounds like you did a compression test and not a leak down test. A leak down test will determine which cylinders are leaking and where they are leaking to. A compression test was also a good thing to do as it will give you a pretty good idea on the shape/age of the motor. Try a leak down test and if bubbles start coming up in the coolant at any point you'll know which cylinders are leaking.
 
When i drive my car to work about 10 miles, arriving at work the temp gauge is level, but after stepping out of the car i notice bubbling in my overflow tank. On my way home, around 4:30 pm another 10 miles i notice it will start to climb at red lights, but if i rev the motor around 2k it will go back down to level temp on the stock gauge. Also driving it seems fine, but when i let off the gas to coast, or i am stopped it will again climb.
also it is losing coolant, at night i fill it back up with about 2 quarts of coolant.

Compression is good, just got a new thermostat. I am lost.

I believe my problem is now the Water pump fins bad or corroded , since when i rev the motor it gets cooler i would assume that is because im running the pump at a high rpm and making it push water through, but any advice would help.
 
I found a small leak in the hose that comes from the overfill tank to the thermostat housing, so fixed that and i tested the car last night, ran it for 15 mins then let her sit in the drive way for a few, but only one fan ever came on. Temp gauge stayed level entire time. But when i finally shut her down and check under hood, the overfill tank was bubbling.

And i dont hear any noise like change in a bucket.
 
Bubbling into the overflow is most likely a bad radiator cap.
 
Radiator cap or blown head gasket for sure. Pull the head and change the head gasket if a radiator cap does not fix it.
 
ok , must be cap cause compression test is still coming back good. Thanks a lot.
 
Okay I just bought a 90 eclipse gs-t and it is having sorta the same issue. Its leaking from the overflow/boiling out, and my fans also only come on when a/c is on. So I was wondering if you ever figured out your problem.
One more thing, what is the bubbles of death refering to?

You want to "burp" the system and make sure there is no air pockets. Run the car and let it heat cycle as you fill it up, I used to bounce on my bumper some to knock air pockets loose. You need to fix your fans, If you have a front mount make sure there is ducting directing the air flow. I'm pretty sure your fan issue is the problem.

The bubbles of death, is combustion making its way into the cooling system, and instead of the air going out the exhaust, it is pushing through the water lines.
 
ive done some research on this topic but it seems as though all our issues differ a bit, ive had my talon for about 3 weeks now and its been one thing after another, my current issue started after i installed my FP manifold, on my way to work i noticed my car was running a bit hot, drove it till i got to work and the water was boiling, so i started looking around and my radioator fan had actually busted, so off to ebay i go and from research i had done ebay slim fans had worked fine for alot of people so i ordered one, got it, installed it and it worked just fine for about a day then it started over heating again, i tried burping the system and well im sure there are no air bubbles now, but the thing is it only occasianlly over heats, my fans only turn on if my AC is on which leads me to think my thermo switch is bad, but still i keep my AC on and it still over heats? what can it be? where should i start looking? the car is pretty much stock other than the ETS FMIC, FP manifold, And Greddy type RZ BOV, this car is giving me headaches LOL, i bought it to DD and keep my M3 in the gargage.... that hasnt been the case lately.
 
i had this chronic issue for the longest, i made myself a heat shield with sheet metal bolts/nuts and 2000 degree thermo -sheets layerd inside the shield. Since then no issue. i dropped 16 degrees and it looks ruff, but works. in my LAST thread You can find pics of the heat shield.

thanks for the reply, i was running my oem manifold with no heat shield and i wasnt getting this problem, could the FP manifold heat up alot more than the OEM manifold? ive seen blankets for this manifold on ebay but never really felt a difference in engine bay temps to consider one.
 
thanks for the reply, i was running my oem manifold with no heat shield and i wasnt getting this problem, could the FP manifold heat up alot more than the OEM manifold? ive seen blankets for this manifold on ebay but never really felt a difference in engine bay temps to consider one.

I also ran oem W/o Heat shield and did not have a problem. perhaps the size or maybe oem retains more heat from escaping into the bay.? like i said it resolved my issue.. AFTER 2 yrs.
 
I also ran oem W/o Heat shield and did not have a problem. perhaps the size or maybe oem retains more heat from escaping into the bay.? like i said it resolved my issue.. AFTER 2 yrs.

will try this out! thanks will report back in about a week or so.
 
This may sound kind of dumb, but I noticed that you hardwired the fans. Are you sure they are spinning the right way? It's real easy to wire them backward which would cause the fans to spin the opposite directions and cause the car to overheat. I have done it with my slim lines that I'm running now. Good luck!
 
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