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car does not start anymore

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91gsdohc

10+ Year Contributor
1,099
0
Jan 25, 2010
around, Connecticut
i have a 91 tsi awd, the other day my car was running fine, put a quart of oil in, went to the barber. And when i came out the car had a hard time starting, When it did start the sounded like a diesel engine, or as if i had performance cams, some of that sort, drove it home left it, Now when i went to start it all you hear is whump whump ........... ext ( thats kind of the best way to describe the sound) i have new wires, im going to get new plugs when they get them in stock. im scared because thats kind of what my old car sounded like before it died but that also kept stalling mine dose not do that at the moment.
also i would like to say that i had a cracked valve cover (witch i just replaced) and i was thinking maybe oil got down in the cylinders? if that could cause a problem i dont know? but this is the last video i have of the car running
the sound when i try to start sound exactly like in this video before it starts
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i need all the help i can get its my only car and i need transportation

and also when i let it go i can hear a loud noise that kind of sound like air pushing out? not 100% sure how to describe that one
 

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im going to have to put a video or something up. so you guys can hear exactly what i am

heres a video this is me just turning the key to the on then back to acc and so forth

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My car makes that same noise every time I turn it off, but the car runs fine. The way the car was cranking over sounded a bit off, I would like to hear the car crank over a half dozen revs. or more if you get a chance.
 
Sounds like the ISC to me. Like I posted earlier, unbolt it and see if that's what's doing it.
 
Have someone turn the key while you put your hand on the solenoids 1 by 1 you can pinpoint the sound easier.

...also don't rule out any on the firewall, my purge solenoid had me thinking I had an injector problem.
 
my car makes a rattling noise in the fuel rail area and its a light buzzing sound only when i turn the key before starting it. is this the same problem?
 
My car makes that same noise every time I turn it off, but the car runs fine. The way the car was cranking over sounded a bit off, I would like to hear the car crank over a half dozen revs. or more if you get a chance.

heres a video i took erlier to post on another thread


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Sounds like the ISC homing its self. The ECU does that when it turns on to make sure that the ISC is in a known starting position.

it never did that before, at least i dont think, if that normal maybe i can hear it better since im in a garage now?

Have someone turn the key while you put your hand on the solenoids 1 by 1 you can pinpoint the sound easier.

...also don't rule out any on the firewall, my purge solenoid had me thinking I had an injector problem.

could this be an injector problem?
 

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What the heck is the howling noise in the second video.
ISC clicking in the first is OK but the second video has something really broken Sounds like a starter problem.

with the 2nd vid is for a thread i have and all i got out of that was do a compression test. but i have no idea all i know is thats what the car does it dont start and prior to the car not starting it decided to randomly start up and tick real bad and also sound like a diesal engine/loopy cams sound and before that it was working fine

also im sure you might know but i want to say at one point in time there was a plane going over the house thats not that car
 
Have you pulled the timing belt cover and checked the tension and condition of the belt?

i checked it when i change valve cover and the belt look brand new all teeth was in the cams

so you both think its the starter?
 
If the timing belt did not jump any teeth and is timed correctly then yes I believe your starter is the cranking noise I hear in the second vid.

But the description you gave about how it ran prior to not starting sounds like a timing issue.
 
the belts look perfect i check and rechecked almost evrytime i cranked it to see, but if you hear the starter doesnt that mean its working? and where can i find the starter
 
The belt could be fine but the tensioner be bad. the belt may be loose during certain points when you crank it... just a thought beyond the belt itself.

The car is not cranking right, likely the starter...have it tested!
 
That sounds horrible. Check your starter, check your battery. But the easiest thing you can do right now is twist your oil cap off and look at the cam while someone else cranks the motor. If your alternator/power steering belts are turning, but the cam inside your valve cover isn't then your T-belt is snapped.
 
The belt could be fine but the tensioner be bad. the belt may be loose during certain points when you crank it... just a thought beyond the belt itself.

The car is not cranking right, likely the starter...have it tested!

i thought it cranking right? i guess im wrong then, and how can i get it tested if i cant get it any where, but for what it worth heres a video of the last time the car ran
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That sounds horrible. Check your starter, check your battery. But the easiest thing you can do right now is twist your oil cap off and look at the cam while someone else cranks the motor. If your alternator/power steering belts are turning, but the cam inside your valve cover isn't then your T-belt is snapped.

and if i do see the cam turn them my T-belt is good right? i would hate for that to be it i just paid 1600 for it a couple weeks ago

heres the link to the thread of my other post to give you a little better idea http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/398990-car-does-not-start-anymore.html
 
..take the cam sprocket cover off to see the belt travel and condition .... (sorry on the misconstrue on the ECI thing)..

Starters are fun to get at. Remove the battery and you can see it hiding under the intake manifold on that side.
 
..take the cam sprocket cover off to see the belt travel and condition .... (sorry on the misconstrue on the ECI thing)..

Starters are fun to get at. Remove the battery and you can see it hiding under the intake manifold on that side.

lucky for me my bat isnt even tied down to any thing LOL ( dont worry about itand also thank you for making me look up misconstrue LOL)

You can have the starter tested at most auto parts stores, you have to remove the starter, for that you should consult an online manual. Good Luck!

i already tried to look it up on vfaq but couldnt find it
 
The starter is super fun to take out. Jack the front end up. Crawl underneath your car. You will see that sucker hiding in the middle of the back of the motor. You're going to need a friend. Undo the two bolts and undo the cute little clippy that slides onto a spade on the starter, as well as the hot wire. Then, this is where a friend comes in handy, the starter has to come up and out through the hole where the battery sits. I don't think it's your problem though. The only reason I say this is because the hubby's GST does the SAME EXACT THING. I just put a brand new starter on it (had it tested, btw) and it still cranks uber slow like that. What is different though, is that on the bottom of the steering column, are 2 fairly thik wires. If he pushes up on those wires (towards the steering wheel) it'll start no problems whatsoever. I don't get it. So... hopefully you'll figure out what your issue is. It may be your starter, it may not be. But that's how you have to get to it.
 
There is a post here on dsmtuners with a link to a service manual, I don't have the link but a search for service manual is how I found it here before.


...I saw your latest vid you posted and you have something more than just a starter problem. If that ticking you hear is a bad valve and it is not seating then that will cause the cylinder pressure to be low and could also cause a funny cranking sound. So far out of the vids I have seen your belt jumped and your piston bent your valve now it won't seat. Get a Compression tester and check each cylinder removing only one spark plug at a time, some auto parts stores loan these out with a deposit which they refund when you return the tester.
 
There is a post here on dsmtuners with a link to a service manual, I don't have the link but a search for service manual is how I found it here before.


...I saw your latest vid you posted and you have something more than just a starter problem. If that ticking you hear is a bad valve and it is not seating then that will cause the cylinder pressure to be low and could also cause a funny cranking sound. So far out of the vids I have seen your belt jumped and your piston bent your valve now it won't seat.

i dont see how that could of happened tho because it was 100% fine parked it got a hair cut and when i started it thats what happened. but let me ask this if i look and i see the crank moving i should be good right? before i do anything im going to do a compression test and check the numbers. now with the comp test i read the engine has to be warm, so idk on that one.


also i read that you can adjust the valve manually with a tool could i do that if in fact the valve bent?

The starter is super fun to take out. Jack the front end up. Crawl underneath your car. You will see that sucker hiding in the middle of the back of the motor. You're going to need a friend. Undo the two bolts and undo the cute little clippy that slides onto a spade on the starter, as well as the hot wire. Then, this is where a friend comes in handy, the starter has to come up and out through the hole where the battery sits. I don't think it's your problem though. The only reason I say this is because the hubby's GST does the SAME EXACT THING. I just put a brand new starter on it (had it tested, btw) and it still cranks uber slow like that. What is different though, is that on the bottom of the steering column, are 2 fairly thik wires. If he pushes up on those wires (towards the steering wheel) it'll start no problems whatsoever. I don't get it. So... hopefully you'll figure out what your issue is. It may be your starter, it may not be. But that's how you have to get to it.

every bodys making this starter sound more and more fun to take out LOL ill try to find 2 thick wires and do what he does and see how that goes LOL

Get a Compression tester and check each cylinder removing only one spark plug at a time, some auto parts stores loan these out with a deposit which they refund when you return the tester.

every thing ive seen about comp test they say heat up the engine remove all plugs unplug the mpi and unplug the coil pack do i really have to do that since mar car already dosnt start?
 
First picture is a little blurry but it doesn't look like your ECU is working. The needle on the boost guage should be at zero.
 
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