car does not start anymore

[91gsdohc]

i have a 91 tsi awd, the other day my car was running fine, put a quart of oil in, went to the barber. And when i came out the car had a hard time starting, When it did start the sounded like a diesel engine, or as if i had performance cams, some of that sort, drove it home left it, Now when i went to start it all you hear is whump whump ........... ext ( thats kind of the best way to describe the sound) i have new wires, im going to get new plugs when they get them in stock. im scared because thats kind of what my old car sounded like before it died but that also kept stalling mine dose not do that at the moment.
also i would like to say that i had a cracked valve cover (witch i just replaced) and i was thinking maybe oil got down in the cylinders? if that could cause a problem i dont know? but this is the last video i have of the car running
the sound when i try to start sound exactly like in this video before it starts

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

i need all the help i can get its my only car and i need transportation

and also when i let it go i can hear a loud noise that kind of sound like air pushing out? not 100% sure how to describe that one

 

[91gsdohc]

First picture is a little blurry but it doesn't look like your ECU is working. The needle on the boost guage should be at zero.

those would be videos not pictures , and i know its not the ecu because the gague reads a lil under 0 and my check engine light comes on.



im going to do a compression test just to rule out bent valves

compression is 1and4=0 2and3 are at 125

 

[gyd23]

every thing ive seen about comp test they say heat up the engine remove all plugs unplug the mpi and unplug the coil pack do i really have to do that since mar car already dosnt start?

no the car doesn't have to be warm to do a compression test, yes, it helps get more accurate readings but we just need to see some rough numbers.
if it doesn't start already i wouldn't worry about unplugging a whole bunch of stuff, just grab the one plug for the coil pack (should be inbetween the intake mani and valve cover somewhere.. the wires for it go to the coil pack, so if you unplug it the coil pack won't be shooting sparks )

..then just take one spark plug out at a time, put the compression tester in, crank it over a couple of times and see what the gauge reads. fairly simple.

-Gydeon

EDIT: before someone smart on here decides to correct me first, the coil pack wont "shoot sparks" it will just disable it from sending electricity through the wires to the plugs so they don't spark.

 

[91gsdohc]

so with a maybe half a battrey? and the car being cold compression in 1and4 are at 0 and 3 and 2 are at 125

no the car doesn't have to be warm to do a compression test, yes, it helps get more accurate readings but we just need to see some rough numbers.
if it doesn't start already i wouldn't worry about unplugging a whole bunch of stuff, just grab the one plug for the coil pack (should be inbetween the intake mani and valve cover somewhere.. the wires for it go to the coil pack, so if you unplug it the coil pack won't be shooting sparks )

..then just take one spark plug out at a time, put the compression tester in, crank it over a couple of times and see what the gauge reads. fairly simple.

-Gydeon

all i did was just take out the mpi fuse and a spark plug but left the wires intacked to the coil pack

 

[gyd23]

so with a maybe half a battrey? and the car being cold compression in 1and4 are at 0 and 3 and 2 are at 125



all i did was just take out the mpi fuse and a spark plug but left the wires intacked to the coil pack

yup you did it right, definitely not good result though.. you should have at least 125 in all 4.
didn't you say you just had someone replace the timing belt? or something like that?
if so about how long ago?

 

[91gsdohc]

yup you did it right, definitely not good result though.. you should have at least 125 in all 4.
didn't you say you just had someone replace the timing belt? or something like that?
if so about how long ago?

no i did not have any one install a belt i only had the car for less than a month, and i said the belt looked new,


look the car was running perfect except for a cracked valve cover i parked to came back started it and it was running horrible got it to my house left it the next day i went to start it to go to autozone to get a valve cover gasket and the didnt start. and to anybody if oil got on the Tbelt could that have caused it to possibly jump a tooth

 

[91gsdohc]

i did this on a cold car with maybe half a battery 1and 4 had 0 and 2and3 had 125,

the way the car was running before it stopped starting i believe the T-belt jump a tooth and bent valve (if you would like to see videos of the way the car was running let me know and ill post it) i would like to know since i had a cracked valvecover if oil got on the belt would that have caused it. and if the no compression could of been caused by something else.

 

[HooKnBooK]

The oil on the belt shouldn't have caused it, but yes it does sound like it jumped a tooth.

 

[gyd23]

no i did not have any one install a belt i only had the car for less than a month, and i said the belt looked new,


look the car was running perfect except for a cracked valve cover i parked to came back started it and it was running horrible got it to my house left it the next day i went to start it to go to autozone to get a valve cover gasket and the didnt start. and to anybody if oil got on the Tbelt could that have caused it to possibly jump a tooth

its possible it could have jumped, would need a bit of oil for it to do that though.
regardless something is really wrong, 0 compression means something is really bad either pistons, or valves... or possibly both.
if your up to it.. take the timing belt cover off, spin the crankshaft CLOCKWISE, untill its at TDC (or in other words the little arrows line up) and check the cams and make sure the little notches are exactly parallel with each other, it shouldn't be off more than a single tooth.
if it is then you know it jumped.

 

[91gsdohc]

its possible it could have jumped, would need a bit of oil for it to do that though.
regardless something is really wrong, 0 compression means something is really bad either pistons, or valves... or possibly both.
if your up to it.. take the timing belt cover off, spin the crankshaft CLOCKWISE, untill its at TDC (or in other words the little arrows line up) and check the cams and make sure the little notches are exactly parallel with each other, it shouldn't be off more than a single tooth.
if it is then you know it jumped.

i had a bad crack in the valve cover and i never put the sparkplug cover back on so the amout of oil is possable to get on the belt i think i think the cams dont line up 100% with each othere but ill check that again and also where would those arrows be? and i belive is bent a valve if you go back to the 1st page and look at the second video you could see how it was running before

 

[1990AWD]

A compression test on a cold engine means nothing. A leak down test might tell you a little more, but the engine is cold, so again not too good.

Sounds like you'll have to tear the engine down.

 

[gyd23]

i had a bad crack in the valve cover and i never put the sparkplug cover back on so the amout of oil is possable to get on the belt i think i think the cams dont line up 100% with each othere but ill check that again and also where would those arrows be? and i belive is bent a valve if you go back to the 1st page and look at the second video you could see how it was running before

yeah thats about what it would run like, on the crank pulley there is going to be a triangular indent on the edge somewhere, and on the block at about the 1 or 2 o'clock posistion when looking at the crank is a little arrow that you line up with that indent on the crank pulley. line those up perfectly turning the crank clockwise, then check the camshaft gears and see if they are lined up.

i had bent my valves a couple weeks ago and i had 140 compression in 1 cylinder and 0 in the others, if you have 0 compression in 2 theres no way that trucker will start.

 

[91gsdohc]

heres a video of the last time the car ran

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

A compression test on a cold engine means nothing. A leak down test might tell you a little more, but the engine is cold, so again not too good.

Sounds like you'll have to tear the engine down.

cold engine or not there still should be compression

 

[91gsdohc]

yeah thats about what it would run like, on the crank pulley there is going to be a triangular indent on the edge somewhere, and on the block at about the 1 or 2 o'clock posistion when looking at the crank is a little arrow that you line up with that indent on the crank pulley. line those up perfectly turning the crank clockwise, then check the camshaft gears and see if they are lined up.

i had bent my valves a couple weeks ago and i had 140 compression in 1 cylinder and 0 in the others, if you have 0 compression in 2 theres no way that trucker will start.

i would assume to get to the crank i would have to take the engine out?
i looked at the cams and this is what i see
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50529416@N08/5607477640/" title="IMG00118-20110410-1612.jpg by letsgetwasted, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/5607477640_03d1a01f5f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG00118-20110410-1612.jpg"></a>

also how much do you think it would cost to replace valves

 

[m0nkey1]

I got good compression yesterday on a cold motor

 

[gyd23]

i would assume to get to the crank i would have to take the engine out?
i looked at the cams and this is what i see
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50529416@N08/5607477640/" title="IMG00118-20110410-1612.jpg by letsgetwasted, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/5607477640_03d1a01f5f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG00118-20110410-1612.jpg"></a>

also how much do you think it would cost to replace valves

hmm those aren't off that much..
nooo you wouldn't have to take it out, just look underneath through the wheel well, past your wheel onto the engine, if you have that timing belt cover all the way off, you will see the big pulley that the timing belt goes around? thats the crank pulley.. i don't have a picture of what the indent and arrow looks like but im sure you could look it up on here pretty easily.

i think the only things you need to take off to get to it (this is if you have the timing belt cover still on) is the motor mount, and the water pump pulleys (the two pulleys that drive the alternator and power steering.)
now if you have the timing belt cover all the way off already then you don't need to take anything else off to see the crank pulley. its right there behind your driver side wheel on the bottom of the engine.

EDIT: judging from the picture it looks like you still have the timing belt cover on, its just cut so you can see the gears.

 

[91gsdohc]

hmm those aren't off that much..
nooo you wouldn't have to take it out, just look underneath through the wheel well, past your wheel onto the engine, if you have that timing belt cover all the way off, you will see the big pulley that the timing belt goes around? thats the crank pulley.. i don't have a picture of what the indent and arrow looks like but im sure you could look it up on here pretty easily.

i think the only things you need to take off to get to it (this is if you have the timing belt cover still on) is the motor mount, and the water pump pulleys (the two pulleys that drive the alternator and power steering.)
now if you have the timing belt cover all the way off already then you don't need to take anything else off to see the crank pulley. its right there behind your driver side wheel on the bottom of the engine.

EDIT: judging from the picture it looks like you still have the timing belt cover on, its just cut so you can see the gears.

yea i only took of the top cover i cant be taking this all apart

 

[gyd23]

yea i only took of the top cover i cant be taking this all apart

yeah i got cha..
well i can't really say what else to do, besides i think it may have jumped and the cams could still be in time with each other but not in time with the crank.
and since you asked valves are fairly expensive, depending on where you go, my personal advice, is NEVER go to a dealer unless its your last option. otherwise go to an auto parts store (autozone, carquest, napa, auto value, oriely's, advanced auto) and order stuff, valves at one of those stores worse case like $150

anyone else have suggestions out there?

..otherwise there's not much else you can do to find it out without taking stuff apart.