can't get the block out

[selmerguy]

i am double posting again but no smart 420a guys awnser anywhere but here so here goes.

i am tring to pull my block with out my tranny. i unbolted all the bolts from the tranny. wont the block just pull out from the tranny or do i have to un bolt the flywheel somehow? the block seperates from the tranny but it seems to to get stuck after about 1 inch of seperation.

 

[BigRand]

i am double posting again but no smart 420a guys awnser anywhere but here so here goes.

i am tring to pull my block with out my tranny. i unbolted all the bolts from the tranny. wont the block just pull out from the tranny or do i have to un bolt the flywheel somehow? the block seperates from the tranny but it seems to to get stuck after about 1 inch of seperation.

first off, I'm assuming your using a lift to do this?

Second, just a suggestion, as this could be easier. Take the tranny out from the bottom first(get some really good jack stands or a lift), and see if the block comes out a lot easier that way.

I haven't taken my block out, but I did take out my tranny, and there is a hell of a lot more room under there once that thing is gone.

 

[dr1665]

no smart 420a guys awnser anywhere

Today is your lucky day.

I'm going to assume you have all the sensors unplugged, the coolant and oil drained, all your hoses disconnected, etc..

You want to remove the underdrive pulley (crank pulley) before you try to pull this all out.

Remove the AC and PS pumps. (Just unbolt them and hang them over the fender there.)

Remove the AC/PS brackets.

Remove the header/mani.

Break the tranny bolts loose, but do not remove them.

Under the car, undo the clutch slave cylinder (12mm?), remove the two brackets that go from the block to the tranny (one on the front side and one on the back side), then remove the single, 10mm bolt that will still be holding the access panel to the bottom of the bell housing there. Once that's off, you will have access to the four bolts which hold the starterplate to the clutch, only one at a time, so you might want to put the crank bolt back in, pull the spark plugs, and crank the motor over with a wrench on the one side to get the bolts to come to you in the little access window you just opened.

After you remove all 4 starter plate-to-clutch bolts, be sure the engine is supported by your cherry picker/hoist and have a jack under the tranny to support it while the engine is out.

As you lift the block out with the hoist, you will need to work it back and forth a little bit to get the starter plate (people call it a flywheel) to clear the bell housing. Clear the bell housing on the one side, and make sure the crank doesn't rip through any of your hard lines on the passenger fender, and you should be good to go.

And I would say that maybe I know what I'm talking about. I've had the engine out of my own car twice so far this month, and the tranny out twice without removing the engine. Me and my az2gnt brother, John, can have the block on the ground in less than three hours from the time I pop the hood. I think this should be all you need to know.

Happy engine yanking.

 

[selmerguy]

thanks alot i hope to get it out today. i have a problem with my idler pully and cant get it off. it might be a tight fit.

 

[selmerguy]

ok i got that bad boy out of there. it is on a stand and i have all the rod/pistons out. how do i take the bearings and crank out. i took out all the bearing cap bolts and still nothing loose. i still have the idler pulley and crank gear on. that stupid pulley won't come off. i would like to strip apart as much of the block as i can before i take it to the shop to get that stupid $$$$ $$$ $*%( pulley taken off.

 

[siueclipse]

I seriously think you need to get a Chiltons manual.

 

[selmerguy]

i have one and i am using it. it just don't say a lot as far as engine block disassimbly.sp

 

[dr1665]

You're going to need to go to Autozone and rent the Chrysler Harmonic Damper puller. (I believe this is correct - I just know I kept the damn thing, we use it so much.) You will then need to run to Ace Hardware and get three long bolts which will thread into the three holes in the crank sprocket. I believe they are M1.5x(however long they need to be - you'll see when you get the puller). Might be M1.25, so just grab three of each in super long sizes and run home to try them. Don't forget a couple thick washers for each. Pick up the puller first, then you can line it up and see just how long you are looking at getting when you go to Ace.

After you remove the crank sprocket, be careful not to lose the woodruff key or whatever its called that keeps it in place when it spins. They're not expensive to replace, just one less thing to have to go looking for when you want to put it all back together. You can zip tie it in place in the sprocket just fine.

Remove all the bolts that hold the bedplate to the bottom of the block, then use a hammer to CAREFULLY crack it loose by hitting on recesses and all that that stick out. DO NOT PRY IT APART OR IT WILL LEAK ON YOU LATER. Just take your time and work your way around the outside tapping on it (as in, trying to separate the two - not tapping together) and it will eventually break free. Remember, it's been sealed together for a few years now. It's not intended to come apart easily.

After that, the oil pump can be removed and the crank taken out. Yank your bearings, collect your pistons, rods, new bearings and rings and take that bi*** to the machine shop. You shouldn't pay more than $500 for a bore, hone, ring file/gap, bearing inspection, balance and assembly.

Have fun reading up on engine break in. No two people do it alike.

 

[dr1665]

I seriously think you need to get a Chiltons manual.

And how long has your sig been edited by the mods here for failure to follow the rules?

 

[selmerguy]

dr1665 you the man. thanks and i am going to assymble myself. the shop here wants 150 for a valve job, 35 to hot tank the block and 11 per hole to bore. then they want 110 to balance the crank. i think thats all i need them to do. what do you think?

 

[dr1665]

dr1665 you the man. thanks and i am going to assymble myself. the shop here wants 150 for a valve job, 35 to hot tank the block and 11 per hole to bore. then they want 110 to balance the crank. i think thats all i need them to do. what do you think?

If you are confident that you can gap your rings properly and your bearings all plasti-gauge out okay, then you can give it a shot, but in the end, if something goes wrong...

Personally, I went that route and never had any confidence in my bottom end up until it blew 14,000 miles later (from wrist pin lock failure - nothing to do with me assembling it). Now I dropped $500 on getting the bottom built and balanced and I love it. She hauls ass and might just be the fastest NT on any DSM forum out there now. Just have to finish break in, replace a windshield, get to the track and prove it. You have to ask yourself, what's the price of peace of mind?