ECMlink can not rev above 3500 and super rich.

[sakroda]

Hello guys
I have a 1990 AWD Talon. I finally got ECMlink. My car has 560 EVO injectors, and a 255 Walbro pump that’s very loud. The pump pressure is currently at 42 psi. The car is currently running on SD setup. I used to have a stock car—everything worked fine, I could rev up to 7000 RPM. But now, after these modifications, I can’t go past 3500, and AFR instantly drops down to 9.5. The car just won’t go.


The ECU is a ’91. Pins 6 and 14 have been swapped. Do I also need to convert the PTU to a ’91? I also did a boost leak test, but the air immediately bleeds off. I’m trying to find the leak—maybe I didn’t time the test correctly, I’m not sure. I read that the leak test should be done at 30 degrees. I’m seriously going crazy. The car actually runs fine, but it won’t go past 3500 RPM. Can you give me some ideas?

 

[pauleyman]

Hello guys
I have a 1990 AWD Talon. I finally got ECMlink. My car has 560 EVO injectors, and a 255 Walbro pump that’s very loud. The pump pressure is currently at 42 psi. The car is currently running on SD setup. I used to have a stock car—everything worked fine, I could rev up to 7000 RPM. But now, after these modifications, I can’t go past 3500, and AFR instantly drops down to 9.5. The car just won’t go.


The ECU is a ’91. Pins 6 and 14 have been swapped. Do I also need to convert the PTU to a ’91? I also did a boost leak test, but the air immediately bleeds off. I’m trying to find the leak—maybe I didn’t time the test correctly, I’m not sure. I read that the leak test should be done at 30 degrees. I’m seriously going crazy. The car actually runs fine, but it won’t go past 3500 RPM. Can you give me some ideas?

You seem to have pinpointed it at boost leak test. Test it again and leave the air running while you search for a leak. Little soapy water sprayed at connections helps. If it doesn't hold any pressure all, sounds like a leak to me.

 

[sakroda]

You seem to have pinpointed it at boost leak test. Test it again and leave the air running while you search for a leak. Little soapy water sprayed at connections helps. If it doesn't hold any pressure all, sounds like a leak to me.

Before doing boost leak please tell me how to set the timing for boost leak. air is releasing from somewhere it s not normal.it can not be release so quick.pls have a look the pictures Am i right for 30 degree? I read some articles about 30 or 40 degree at timing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[pauleyman]

Go here.

Boost leak test

 

[dwb]

For a boost leak test, I've never bothered with crank position. Yes, there is valve overlap, but I've never had a problem with the engine stopping at that specific point.

If you think you have valve overlap during your BLT, you should hear it out the exhaust. Just rotate the crank and try again. You might be sabotaging yourself by guessing 30* and actually hitting, what is it, 26* or less BTDC?

 

[sakroda]

Guys I did SD setup. So do I have to connect wideband (pin 15) to ECMLink?

This process is explanation of rich? Please, someone tell me why my car won't exceed 3500 rpm and instead gets rich at 9.9. I haven't made any adjustments in the ECMLink SD setup. Do I need to do any adjustments?

Couldn't the ECMLink be set to rich in the Speed Density tab? Or could there be a problem somewhere else in the car?

Can you check I think something wrong about TPS position and voltage?

 

[Stapl3]

Your SD table is doing you zero favors.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Guys I did SD setup. So do I have to connect wideband (pin 15) to ECMLink?

This process is explanation of rich? Please, someone tell me why my car won't exceed 3500 rpm and instead gets rich at 9.9. I haven't made any adjustments in the ECMLink SD setup. Do I need to do any adjustments?

Couldn't the ECMLink be set to rich in the Speed Density tab? Or could there be a problem somewhere else in the car?

Can you check I think something wrong about TPS position and voltage?

Your ECU setup is missing sensor inputs: WideBand, IAT sensor, and MAP sensor

SD requires IAT and MAP - Wideband is not technically needed - but you won't know anything about the tune without one.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Where it says "Factory/none" you click to configure the ECU - to tell it what sensors you have connected.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Your TPS is at 0.55. It should be at 0.63. You can either loosen the two small bolts on the TPS and twist it until you get to 0.63 while running a ECMLink log or you can compensate for it in the RPM/TPS tab with the offset.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

For a boost leak test, I've never bothered with crank position. Yes, there is valve overlap, but I've never had a problem with the engine stopping at that specific point.

Me too, it's never prevented me from doing a boost leak test.

Air is releasing from somewhere it s not normal.it can not be release so quick.

It can if the leak is big enough. Two things that Ive personally run into that caused this was
1. One of the pipes for the intercooler separated from the coupler. Air was running out of it as quickly as I added it and was hard to hear over the air that I was adding. But the gauge on the leak tester just fluffed the needle a bit and quickly went back to 0.
2. Your tester isn't sealing well. I always start a boost leak test by spraying the tester at the turbo to make sure I'm not leaking from there. I switched to a new tester and it took me a good while to figure out that the tester itself was the issue. Make sure that your starting point isn't causing the issue and making you chase "phantom" leaks that aren't really there. Otherwise, it would indicate that you have a substantial leak somewhere.

 

[sakroda]

Your TPS is at 0.55. It should be at 0.63. You can either loosen the two small bolts on the TPS and twist it until you get to 0.63 while running a ECMLink log or you can compensate for it in the RPM/TPS tab with the offset.

I don t think 0.8 value makes this issue but i will do it.

Your ECU setup is missing sensor inputs: WideBand, IAT sensor, and MAP sensor

SD requires IAT and MAP - Wideband is not technically needed - but you won't know anything about the tune without one.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Where it says "Factory/none" you click to configure the ECU - to tell it what sensors you have connected.

No sir i did SD setup i can see IAT and GM sensor on my settings.

Me too, its never prevented me from doing a boost leak test.


It can if the leak is big enough. Two things that Ive personally run into that caused this was
1. One of the pipes for the intercooler separated from the coupler. Air was running out of it as quickly as I added it and was hard to hear over the air that i was adding. But the gauge on the leak tester just fluffed the needle a bit and quickly went back to 0.
2. Your tester isnt sealing well. I always start a boost leak test by spraying the tester at the turbo to make sure im not leaking from there. I switched to a new tester and it took me a good while to figure out that the tester itself was the issue. Make sure that your starting point isnt causing the issue and making you chase "phantom" leaks that arent really there. Otherwise, it would indicate that you have a substantial leak somewhere.

I wish i could find the mark on my side. I will put a balloon to exhaust so if it s filling with air i will understand exhaust is open I need open the intake not exhaust...
But i bought a new black top cas I don t remember i put the CAS on TDC

 

[sakroda]

I forgotten to say one thing. I have 90 talon but I have 91 ecu. Is that problem about firing due to PTU? Because tacho is jumping after 3500 rpm but i swapped the 6/14.

 

[steve]

Please provide a current log. That one is over a month old.

 

[sakroda]

Please provide a current log. That one is over a month old.

Steve I shared the log file before there is no difference until today. I need to do WB connection to ecmlink. I did not have time for that. I can not hear the boost leak. maybe i need to do smoke test? By the way there are 2 firing order also on net.I really don t know which one is correct for me. First picture or second?
1)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[nice97civic]

1G - 1g spark plug wiring order

Here is a diagram showing how to route the spark plug wires from the coil pack to the cylinders.Special thanks to You must be registered to see element. for making this diagram.Here is a link to a thread with more information and a discussion on the topic: You must be registered to see element.

www.dsmtuners.com

#2

 

[sakroda]

Please provide a current log. That one is over a month old.

I am sorry steve i did wiring for WB but it does not show up on displayed values. it stuck on 21:0 AFR. I have zt-2 and i splice wire for the pin 15 ( ZTWB orange) and I did pin assignment on ecmlink "EGR Temp" section for ZT2WB but no luck. Did i miss something?
thanks

 

[Justin DuBois]

What orange wire are you referring to?

https://www.zeitronix.com/installation/Zt-2_Model2010_Instructions.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOor1oad3lCOklsPLwidZtvPZ_G43dSA2piykWvnaR_uotIW-xbtf

ZT-2 Orange wire is a MAP sensor input wire.
The White wire is a 0-5v WB output that should be connected to an available input in the DSM ECU wire harness.

If you are using the EGT temp input, Splice the ZT-2 white wire into the Blue/Yellow wire at ECU pin 15
www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf

 

[sakroda]

What orange wire are you referring to?

https://www.zeitronix.com/installation/Zt-2_Model2010_Instructions.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOor1oad3lCOklsPLwidZtvPZ_G43dSA2piykWvnaR_uotIW-xbtf

ZT-2 Orange wire is a MAP sensor input wire.
The White wire is a 0-5v WB output that should be connected to an available input in the DSM ECU wire harness.

If you are using the EGT temp input, Splice the ZT-2 white wire into the Blue/Yellow wire at ECU pin 15
www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf

so i will use white wire for WB? and i will use the EGR temp input on pin15 for WB?

 

[jed344]

Your coolant temp sensor is jumping around rapidly when you rev it. That is not normal.
Years ago we used a 91+ ecu in a 90 car and by memory we just had to swap wires for IAC. Yes the tach would freak out above 3,500rpm but link would read accurate and car ran just fine and acted as normal.
Wideband not logging correctly.
TPS volts is off.
Still should rev past 3,500 even with all this i see.

 

[sakroda]

Your coolant temp sensor is jumping around rapidly when you rev it. That is not normal.
Years ago we used a 91+ ecu in a 90 car and by memory we just had to swap wires for IAC. Yes the tach would freak out above 3,500rpm but link would read accurate and car ran just fine and acted as normal.
Wideband not logging correctly.
TPS volts is off.
Still should rev past 3,500 even with all this i see.

thanks for coolant temp jumping issue i eill check it. i am doubting about brake booster i will check it.i think i will give a breath from intake side and it shouldn t pass to checkvalve Ammi right? i did IAC wiring swap but i will check again..

 

[jed344]

thanks for coolant temp jumping issue i eill check it. i am doubting about brake booster i will check it.i think i will give a breath from intake side and it shouldn t pass to checkvalve Ammi right? i did IAC wiring swap but i will check again..

You know if you didn't change IAC wiring. Soon as car goes into closed loop it will idle surge like crazy as it would be reversed. My memory say's the tach issue was due to how the 90 generates it's signal for rpm. I can say 100% though that link would read rpm correct and car would run perfect other then tach going ham above 3,500 rpm.

Wideband logging correctly would be great help as we are kind of in the dark with air fuel.

There is a check valve in brake booster line factory. Allows booster to be pulled into vacuum but stop boost from going back up to brake booster.
Long time ago we learned this by making a new line without one and first time car went into boost there was a loud pop and it hurt the brake booster .