BW S372R build.

[slowgsr]

Hi, im getting parts together for my winter build. Im looking for 750+whp, i was considering going with the S372 with the Race cover. If any of you have other suggestions let me know. I was also thinking of the S366xl, but it might not be enough for my goals.

Does anyone know if this will clear when using the JM fab T4 topmount? Or what manifold would it fit. Im currently running a s258 on a SLS manifold.

Any help?

Thanks.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

is the 258 with the SLS manifold not enough? That's amid 500hp setup.....

 

[slowgsr]

No, its not enough. Im looking for 9.99 or faster next year out and want to be competitive in the super street power adder class cscs (Canadian).

I dont think the little s258 will be able to do what i need it too.

 

[dSmgs-T]

wanna sell the s258 to me?!

 

[Wicked95AWD]

Will you be running a full weight car? Im sure you know this already if you are capable of building a 9 second car, but the power level you will need to attain 9's will drop significantly if you put your car on a diet. Twicks made 740whp with a 4088r which is quite a bit smaller than the s372 and I think he ran a high 9 in his nearly full weight 2g. After looking at the power/torque curve on twicks69's dyno sheet it appears to spool like a 50trim. If your car is full weight it should also be possible to get to your goal with an s366 but it would obviously be easier with the 372. It all depends on how much lag you wanna deal with or if your car is driven on the street. I'm personally shooting for 40+psi and 700whp with a holset super (60mm) hx40 (very similar to a Bdub s300sx), but my 2g is a full weight street car and right now I can't afford to upgrade to a stage 4 tranny, a twin disc clutch, and all the other drivetrain components needed to drive it hard enough for a 9second time slip so I'm realistically only shooting for mid 10's at the moment. The drivetrain modifications and upkeep required for a 9 second car is very expensive (I think twicks has been through 14 transmissions). I hope you have some deeeep pockets. Good luck.

 

[slowgsr]

It will still be a street car, so im thinking i will probably run the s366 since it will be good for enough power to put my car into the high 9's. However, the car isn't a daily and wont need to retain powersteering, AC, Heat, Etc. Since it will be basically a fun car that i will build well im young and can afford it.

CFT's talon ran a 9.0 @ 150 with a 1.20 60ft, this was making 740awhp also. This was a 1G.

I will be removing as much as possible, but still want full interior. However, the plastic panels weigh next to nothing, and i will be gutting everything else, as well as concentrating on other parts that will save weight. Weight is a big factor, well still keeping a full looking interior.

Plus the less weight there is to pull, the less stress on the driveline parts.
I have a mild build done on the car already, however, i will need to upgrade alot of the parts, and sell alot of what i have.

Current budget is $20,000 for parts, Plus whatever i can sell off my car now. It will probably exceed that once everything gets to where it needs to be.

I will probably end up making mid 6's and run a high 10 however next year out. We will see what happens. Since i REALLY dont want to put a cage in this car yet, since i think it kills the idea of a 'street' car.

 

[turbodsm18]

If you cant go 10's with 20K, you should give up......

-Kevin-

 

[twicks69]

Wow! A 1.2 60' is ridiculous! Heck, the best I have pulled is a 1.50, taking it easy on the car so I didn't blow up a transmission on the launch!

turbodsm18 -- your post was unnecessary, as it is not really contributing anything to the thread. I would suggest that you post something with a little more usefulness if you are going to post at all.

Slowgsr -- I think you could be capable of reaching your goals off of a BWS366, S372, S374, or S376, along with running in the 9-second range. With the S366, you will be likely running at least 35psi on C16 or Q16 race fuel to be around 650-700whp on a well-tuned setup, to get you in the 9's in a full-weight car.

To run the S362, S366, and S372 turbos to their maximum potential, while retaining the stock fuel tank, will involve a minimum of the following:
*Walbro 255HP in-tank fuel pump
*Walbro 255HP or Bosch 044 in-line fuel pump
*-6AN fuel feed from the tank to the fuel rail (or -8AN will suffice)
*Aeromotive, FuelLab, SX, or equivilant fuel filter with -6AN (or -8AN) fittings
*Stock fuel rail with -6AN or -8AN feed fitting, and a -6AN fuel return fitting with -6AN fuel line to the firewall. The stock fuel lines from the firewall to the fuel tank will be fine.
*Aeromotive AFPR, or equivilant with -6AN fittings.
*1000cc fuel injectors are enough for easily 800AWHP with the dual Walbro fuel pump setup. If you are going to go with the S372, I would probably reccomend running 1200cc injectors.

The S362 will be MAXED OUT to make 750WHP -- you will be exceeding its efficiency and over-spinning the the turbo where it will fail much easier. The S366 should have no problems making 750WHP with 40-50psi on VP Import or VP Q16 race fuel, while using 1000cc injectors.

The S372 and S374 should have no problems reaching your goals on 35+psi, on a really good tune. Just remember, when running these two models, it does use a GT42R-sized compressor cover, and will need a bit more space to clear things in the engine bay -- especially when used in conjunction with a 3" intercooler pipe from the compressor cover to the intercooler.

As for other things to consider...AEM EMS, a good twin-disk clutch, a heck of alot of weight reduction, and a very good set of coilovers with some decently stiff springs in the rear -- at least a 500# spring with the ability to increase the preloads if it is not enough to keep t he car from squatting too hard. The main reason behind increasing the preload on the rear spring in this circumstance, is to reduce the potential for blowing up your rear end or rear axles, and transferring more power distribution to the front.

Finally, you will need these following parts, if you have not already purchased them....
*AEM 5-bar MAP sensor
*A larger FMIC core -- check out the PTE Large Core -- 24"x12"x3.5" with 2.5" IC pipes if you are staying with a GT40-style compressor cover, or 3" IC pipes if you are changing to a GT42-style compressor cover.
*A larger SMIM -- check out the following link for a reccomendation of which part I would go with: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...-performance-sheet-metal-intake-manifold.html

*Dual fuel pump setup (like the one I fully described above)
*Valve cover modifications with -10AN or -12AN fittings and a good catch can/breather setup design.
*Twin disk clutch -- QuarterMaster or PTT
*Transmission upgrades -- with at least a 4-spider center diff, or a spool, along with a front diff LSD of some sort (phantom grip insert or Quaife LSD).
*Built bottom end
*bigger cams
*dual valve springs and titanium retainers
*4" intake pipe (forced performance)
*roll cage and safety equipment
*coilovers
*bigger brakes
*parachute
*safety equipment



I hope that this list and information helps you in your quest for 750whp and 9's!

Good luck!

 

[Slippi84]

HX52 FTW

Hx52 will free up a lot of budget room over a s372 too. I have about teh same goals as you do and I"m building my build around a HX52. It's rated to 90lbs/min csan be had with billet compressor wheel(think HTA) and spools just like extended tip tech seen on the borg turbo's so you get the best of both worlds.

Only thing I will suggest is that you go -8an not -6an for the fuel feed and you shoudl look into the new FIC injectors. Other than that Twick said all the inportant and good stuff.

 

[Dsmx17]

Just putting it out there, no way 1000cc's will flow safely trying to reach over 650whp, I was running fic 950's that were in the 90% duty cycle range at 600whp, with twin pumps at 52 base fuel pressure, granted, this was on cam2 not q16, however, if you call FIC or any injector manufacture, they will tell you to not run injectors over 80% duty if avoidable.

Long story short, get bigger than 1000cc injectors, or be ready to max those before you max the turbo.

 

[twicks69]

Just putting it out there, no way 1000cc's will flow safely trying to reach over 650whp, I was running fic 950's that were in the 90% duty cycle range at 600whp, with twin pumps at 52 base fuel pressure, granted, this was on cam2 not q16, however, if you call FIC or any injector manufacture, they will tell you to not run injectors over 80% duty if avoidable.

Long story short, get bigger than 1000cc injectors, or be ready to max those before you max the turbo.

Hmmm, I think it definitely comes down to tuning and efficiency; especially with the efficiency on the intake side.

I reccomended the fuel setup, because that is what I am using and it is budget friendly, and proven to over 750AWHP on my car over numerous dyno-pulls and street/track experiences. I am running a base pressure of 43psi, and run Q16 or VP import, and am seeing high 70's-low 80's for duty cycles, using AEM EMS on a boost-comp map. My raw fuel values are maxed at 171 (with a range of 106-171 throughout the rpm spectrum), on a 30 MSec/bit resolution, using PTE 1000cc injectors, 1-in-tank and 1-in-line Walbro 255HP with -6AN feed and -6AN-to stock fuel return; with no problems. I know that it will easily be able to capacitate 800-825AWHP before it will need a fuel injector upgrade.

 

[slowgsr]

Yeah here is the link to the cft talon YouTube - CFT / Pollo 9.02 @ 151.7
They drove the shit outa that car!

I would like to run the S372R if i can fit it with the race cover, im going to do a bit of research, i dont think it will fit the sls manifold, but im going to call JM fab to see if they think it will fit their T4 topmount. If not, i might go with the s366XL, it will make the power i want, and fit easier as well. Plus its a bit cheaper.

Thanks for the suggestions on parts, I plan to run either dual intake walbro's, or sump the tank.

I already have PTE 1000cc injectors, and an Aeromotive FPR on the car already, Im considering either 1200's or 1600's.

The car is already running AEM EMS, with a 3.5bar, i will upgrade to a 5 bar.

For the intercooler, I currently have the PTE '600hp' intercooler, (31.5x8x3.5) I will probably just use the 750 version (measuring 31.5x10.3x3.5) I could probably fit the 825 as well without much trouble, (34.5x10.5x3.5).

Im running a JM street SMIM right now, i was hoping that would be sufficent for mid 7's.

For the clutch, i was looking into the Exedy Twin disc, what are your thoughts on that? As well as the line up as shep transmission products, The stage 4 looks like it will do what i need, since its a street car im trying to avoid the whole dog box setup.

I will probably go with a s366, 2.5" charge pipes, a pte '750hp' IC, a manifold i know the turbo will fit on, dual 44's, a 5 bar, some 280 cams, valvetrain etc. Shep stage 4 trans, twindisc, 4" exhaust and dp, for the engine im thinking of doing 20 over, use a 2.4L crank and build a 2.3 stroker. Probably weisco pistons, manley rods, acl bearings, arp fasteners, and oem gaskets/water& oil pump.

Im also considering keeping a stock crank and reving it to 9500. The stroker would be nice for the street though, If i could make 30+ psi on a s366 by 5500rpm on a built stock crank motor i would have plenty powerband.

I have much to figure out as far as EXACTLY what parts im going to use. But believe me 20k gets used up QUICK, but i have a few parts i can sell to help offset the cost of maybe a new turbo/manifold.

Its easy to spend 2k on wheels and tires alone, also do you guys think a 225/50/16 hoosier drag radial would work well? Its 24.9" tall, and 8.8" wide. I was thinking of putting them on a set of Enkei wheels, 43mm offset, 13.7lbs each 7" wide. Or would i be better off to go with full out slicks for the track, and just run all seasons on the street?

So much to figure out.. I think im going to make a list once i get a straight idea of what i want to use. My dsm is 'semi' built already, just running on the stock motor. I also built a honda before this, FWD was useless on the street.

Anyways, i will probably get a manifold/turbo another WG and intercooler ordered soon, as well as the material to fab up the charge pipes and exhaust/downpipe.

Let me know what you guys think about running a stock 1g throttle body and elbow. Thanks

Wow! A 1.2 60' is ridiculous! Heck, the best I have pulled is a 1.50, taking it easy on the car so I didn't blow up a transmission on the launch!

turbodsm18 -- your post was unnecessary, as it is not really contributing anything to the thread. I would suggest that you post something with a little more usefulness if you are going to post at all.

Slowgsr -- I think you could be capable of reaching your goals off of a BWS366, S372, S374, or S376, along with running in the 9-second range. With the S366, you will be likely running at least 35psi on C16 or Q16 race fuel to be around 650-700whp on a well-tuned setup, to get you in the 9's in a full-weight car.

To run the S362, S366, and S372 turbos to their maximum potential, while retaining the stock fuel tank, will involve a minimum of the following:
*Walbro 255HP in-tank fuel pump
*Walbro 255HP or Bosch 044 in-line fuel pump
*-6AN fuel feed from the tank to the fuel rail (or -8AN will suffice)
*Aeromotive, FuelLab, SX, or equivilant fuel filter with -6AN (or -8AN) fittings
*Stock fuel rail with -6AN or -8AN feed fitting, and a -6AN fuel return fitting with -6AN fuel line to the firewall. The stock fuel lines from the firewall to the fuel tank will be fine.
*Aeromotive AFPR, or equivilant with -6AN fittings.
*1000cc fuel injectors are enough for easily 800AWHP with the dual Walbro fuel pump setup. If you are going to go with the S372, I would probably reccomend running 1200cc injectors.

The S362 will be MAXED OUT to make 750WHP -- you will be exceeding its efficiency and over-spinning the the turbo where it will fail much easier. The S366 should have no problems making 750WHP with 40-50psi on VP Import or VP Q16 race fuel, while using 1000cc injectors.

The S372 and S374 should have no problems reaching your goals on 35+psi, on a really good tune. Just remember, when running these two models, it does use a GT42R-sized compressor cover, and will need a bit more space to clear things in the engine bay -- especially when used in conjunction with a 3" intercooler pipe from the compressor cover to the intercooler.

As for other things to consider...AEM EMS, a good twin-disk clutch, a heck of alot of weight reduction, and a very good set of coilovers with some decently stiff springs in the rear -- at least a 500# spring with the ability to increase the preloads if it is not enough to keep t he car from squatting too hard. The main reason behind increasing the preload on the rear spring in this circumstance, is to reduce the potential for blowing up your rear end or rear axles, and transferring more power distribution to the front.

Finally, you will need these following parts, if you have not already purchased them....
*AEM 5-bar MAP sensor
*A larger FMIC core -- check out the PTE Large Core -- 24"x12"x3.5" with 2.5" IC pipes if you are staying with a GT40-style compressor cover, or 3" IC pipes if you are changing to a GT42-style compressor cover.
*A larger SMIM -- check out the following link for a reccomendation of which part I would go with: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...-performance-sheet-metal-intake-manifold.html

*Dual fuel pump setup (like the one I fully described above)
*Valve cover modifications with -10AN or -12AN fittings and a good catch can/breather setup design.
*Twin disk clutch -- QuarterMaster or PTT
*Transmission upgrades -- with at least a 4-spider center diff, or a spool, along with a front diff LSD of some sort (phantom grip insert or Quaife LSD).
*Built bottom end
*bigger cams
*dual valve springs and titanium retainers
*4" intake pipe (forced performance)
*roll cage and safety equipment
*coilovers
*bigger brakes
*parachute
*safety equipment



I hope that this list and information helps you in your quest for 750whp and 9's!

Good luck!

 

[twicks69]

The stock 1G throttle body will do just fine, but be sure to use a 2.5" pipe for the throttle body inlet instead of a stock throttle body elbow.

The 2.3L stroker does pretty well on a steel H-beam rod, and I would reccomend that for this application. Check out the Eagle H-beam rods; you can find them for around $300 at a good price. As for the crank; the stock crank is an excellent piece, and it will handle the power. Be sure you magnaflux it before installing it to make sure it is in tip-top condition. As for revving it out...on a steel rod motor, I would strongly reccomend staying below 8500rpms -- 8600rpms at the MAX. The piston velocity becomes pretty darn dangerous past 8450rpms, and it can easily let go. If you were going with an aluminum rod, along with dual springs and solid lifters, then I would say you could get away with 9000-9500rpms; but you are still playing a dangerous game. Play it safe, and set your rev ignition cut at 8400 and your fuel cut at 8600rpms. As for the 2-step, you should try setting your AEM for a 6000rpm ignition cut and a 7000rpm fuel cut. This rpm setting has worked out really well on the GT4088R in my car and has yielded me the best 60-foot times while preventing bogging off the launch.

As for the tires, I would stay away from drag radials as the sidewall is too stiff for what we are doing with the car. You would want to run a set of slicks or cheater slicks (hoosier QTP's). Either way, I would focus on the other parts of the car right now, and save the wheels and tires for later down the road after the engine and drivetrain parts are taken care of.

As for the clutch, I really don't like the Exedy twin too much, and really stand by my Quarter Master 7.25" V-drive Rally twin disk with the 1-piece chromoly flywheel. It has done excellent for 3 years now with no major problems. If you go this route, be sure to purchase the clutch disks with the heat treated hubs as they are capable of handling the torque a little better and will be less likely to strip the splines off the clutch.

With the transmission, I would look at a Shep Stage 3 or 4, and be sure to cryotreat the input shaft, intermediate shaft, the 3/4 gearset and hub/slider, along with the center differential case and the front diff spider gears (if you are intending on running an open front diff or one with a phantom grip LSD insert). If you run the Quaife, you will have no problems. Either way, the late 91-early 92 3rd and 4th gears are a beefy gearset and are good for what we do. If you want to have a closer gear ratio, then I would run the Evo 3 3rd and 4th gears.

Finally, the PTE medium core (the 10" tall one), is a great part, and will support the HP you are looking for without too much pressure drop. Great part!

Later,

Tim

Yeah here is the link to the cft talon YouTube - CFT / Pollo 9.02 @ 151.7
They drove the shit outa that car!

I would like to run the S372R if i can fit it with the race cover, im going to do a bit of research, i dont think it will fit the sls manifold, but im going to call JM fab to see if they think it will fit their T4 topmount. If not, i might go with the s366XL, it will make the power i want, and fit easier as well. Plus its a bit cheaper.

Thanks for the suggestions on parts, I plan to run either dual intake walbro's, or sump the tank.

I already have PTE 1000cc injectors, and an Aeromotive FPR on the car already, Im considering either 1200's or 1600's.

The car is already running AEM EMS, with a 3.5bar, i will upgrade to a 5 bar.

For the intercooler, I currently have the PTE '600hp' intercooler, (31.5x8x3.5) I will probably just use the 750 version (measuring 31.5x10.3x3.5) I could probably fit the 825 as well without much trouble, (34.5x10.5x3.5).

Im running a JM street SMIM right now, i was hoping that would be sufficent for mid 7's.

For the clutch, i was looking into the Exedy Twin disc, what are your thoughts on that? As well as the line up as shep transmission products, The stage 4 looks like it will do what i need, since its a street car im trying to avoid the whole dog box setup.

I will probably go with a s366, 2.5" charge pipes, a pte '750hp' IC, a manifold i know the turbo will fit on, dual 44's, a 5 bar, some 280 cams, valvetrain etc. Shep stage 4 trans, twindisc, 4" exhaust and dp, for the engine im thinking of doing 20 over, use a 2.4L crank and build a 2.3 stroker. Probably weisco pistons, manley rods, acl bearings, arp fasteners, and oem gaskets/water& oil pump.

Im also considering keeping a stock crank and reving it to 9500. The stroker would be nice for the street though, If i could make 30+ psi on a s366 by 5500rpm on a built stock crank motor i would have plenty powerband.

I have much to figure out as far as EXACTLY what parts im going to use. But believe me 20k gets used up QUICK, but i have a few parts i can sell to help offset the cost of maybe a new turbo/manifold.

Its easy to spend 2k on wheels and tires alone, also do you guys think a 225/50/16 hoosier drag radial would work well? Its 24.9" tall, and 8.8" wide. I was thinking of putting them on a set of Enkei wheels, 43mm offset, 13.7lbs each 7" wide. Or would i be better off to go with full out slicks for the track, and just run all seasons on the street?

So much to figure out.. I think im going to make a list once i get a straight idea of what i want to use. My dsm is 'semi' built already, just running on the stock motor. I also built a honda before this, FWD was useless on the street.

Anyways, i will probably get a manifold/turbo another WG and intercooler ordered soon, as well as the material to fab up the charge pipes and exhaust/downpipe.

Let me know what you guys think about running a stock 1g throttle body and elbow. Thanks

 

[slowgsr]

Well, ive decided to go with a 2.3L stroker using the 4g64 crank, manley I beam rods and some 8.8:1 weisco's (using the SBR kit). I haven't decided what im going to do for the head yet, but i think i will let Canadian cylinder head do the port work since there close. I will be using the S366xl and probably a full race bottom mount manifold. Keeping my single tial 44. Full race manifolds have always been top notch in all their applications for proper wastegate location, quality, and preformance. I will be using the 750hp PTE intercooler, 2.5" charge piping, my JM fab SMIM, and for the fuel system, probably 1200 or 1600cc injectors (probably 1200's for idle on the street), and full blowns dual walbro kit. Im going to do a 4" aluminum exhaust, probably 3" downpipe.

Im going to order most of the stuff monday. Probably the turbo stuff first, that way i can fab everything and than build the motor as the turbo parts get welded and coated etc. Just need to know EXACTLY what parts i need.

I need to ship shep trans a core as well.. So they can get me a stage 4 built, since there only 4 hours away i do plan on doing a pickup.

Anyone think i will be OK running a stock T case? Anyone running stock T cases in thie high 600 low 700 range?

Thanks!

 

[Slippi84]

Well, ive decided to go with a 2.3L stroker using the 4g64 crank, manley I beam rods and some 8.8:1 weisco's (using the SBR kit). I haven't decided what im going to do for the head yet, but i think i will let Canadian cylinder head do the port work since there close. I will be using the S366xl and probably a full race bottom mount manifold. Keeping my single tial 44. Full race manifolds have always been top notch in all their applications for proper wastegate location, quality, and preformance. I will be using the 750hp PTE intercooler, 2.5" charge piping, my JM fab SMIM, and for the fuel system, probably 1200 or 1600cc injectors (probably 1200's for idle on the street), and full blowns dual walbro kit. Im going to do a 4" aluminum exhaust, probably 3" downpipe.

Im going to order most of the stuff monday. Probably the turbo stuff first, that way i can fab everything and than build the motor as the turbo parts get welded and coated etc. Just need to know EXACTLY what parts i need.

I need to ship shep trans a core as well.. So they can get me a stage 4 built, since there only 4 hours away i do plan on doing a pickup.

Anyone think i will be OK running a stock T case? Anyone running stock T cases in thie high 600 low 700 range?

Thanks!

This is why I said the new 1650cc FIC injectors you get the fuel of the 1600cc old style ones but without the part throttle driving and idling issues.

 

[slowgsr]

Thanks for the idea! Im thinking of just sticking with the 1000's for now. Since im sure they will get me though the first dyno session. Im sure i can support mid 6's + with the 1000's. I will see how the budget does.

The economy sucks right now, so many getting laid off from everywhere around here. Its good i work for my dad and we are just a small company. We have some good contracts with toys r us, and other retailers doing mainteance electrical. If we have to we could always downsize to just me and him. But job security in times like this is always a plus!

 

[olmytsi]

My buddy just put a s362 on his 1g and the thing sounds insane, never heard a turbo that whistles as much as that thing just cruising around at low rpms.

 

[Wicked95AWD]

I've read about several EVO's on the evolutionm forums who had problems and failures with very few miles on Exedy twin disc clutches. I did alot of research on which clutch/drivetrain components to get my car to 700whp as reliably as possible and the general concensus seems to be that the Tilton clutch is the best and the PTT/Quartermaster is a close second. However, as i recall the Tilton clutch is over 10k and the PTT is only $1,100 so for me it's a no-brainer to go with the PTT. Twicks also recommended Raxles race axles to me in a previous post. They are incredibly cheap compared to other competitors and should hold up much better than the stockers if you are making s3XX class power.

 

[slowgsr]

I dont think a tilton is 10k, maybe a carbon/carbon tilton. But no the reg twin. However i will most likely go with the one suggested!

Thanks!

 

[slowgsr]

Hi guys! Im about to order a handful of parts just to get things rolling!

Ive decided to order the parts for the block and head first, and get my core sent over to sheptrans.com for a build.

For the head ive decided to go with the following parts.

BC 288/288 cams
Ferrea 1mm oversized valves
Ferrea valve guides
Supertech high tension dual valve springs and ti retainers
BC cam gears

I should be good to go for parts needed to complete the head? I will order a Felpro complete gasket kit for my engine when i purchase the parts for the block, which will take care of all the seals/gaskets needed to assemble the head.

For the block im going to go with the SBR stage 2 stroker kit using the manley rods and weisco pistons 20 over. I also plan on using a Fluidampr as well. I will stick with all OEM mitsu timing belt parts, as well as MLS head gasket, ARP headstuds and i was thinking about ARP main studs as well.

As for the turbo selection. Ive decided to go with the S366 in a T3 version. The largest undivided T3 exhaust housing they make which is a 0.70 a/r. (which i think might be the same exhaust housing they use on the S200 series.. its the same T3 inlet, vband discharge and 0.70a/r) which is currently what im running now on my talon, so i can probably re-use my downpipe .

The S366 in a T3 has made wicked power on honda's, lots of guys over 700whp and trapping 150+ i know its a different setup, but it will save me money and time, since i can re-use my manifold, the turbo is cheaper, and i wont have to purchase another wastegate, make another dumptube(s), downpipe and no wait time on getting a new manifold. So i think it will be a good choice.

Next is the fuel system!

So what do you guys think? Am i on the right track?

 

[stockfornow]

I think you're on the right track, as far as harmonic dampener, I would use the ATI, it's better especially if you're using 100mm crank.
I personally run it with the BW S362, so far so good, but I only like 2K on my motor...
As far as .70A/R with the V-band should be the best compromise between the power and the spool up time on the 2.3, my setup is similar but I run S362.
And at only 15 psi untuned, with slipping clutch I was able to do 11.7 and a 1.76 60' on street tires, I will be going for low 10's high 9's with PTT twin disk (is the way to go, or QM same thing).
Also don't forget about ignition system, as you'll need it, personally I'll be going with Dynatek ARC-2, heard it's awesome, and my buddy runs it. Good luck!

 

[andy4g63]

Hi guys! Im about to order a handful of parts just to get things rolling!

Ive decided to order the parts for the block and head first, and get my core sent over to sheptrans.com for a build.

For the head ive decided to go with the following parts.

BC 288/288 cams
Ferrea 1mm oversized valves
Ferrea valve guides
Supertech high tension dual valve springs and ti retainers
BC cam gears

I should be good to go for parts needed to complete the head? I will order a Felpro complete gasket kit for my engine when i purchase the parts for the block, which will take care of all the seals/gaskets needed to assemble the head.

For the block im going to go with the SBR stage 2 stroker kit using the manley rods and weisco pistons 20 over. I also plan on using a Fluidampr as well. I will stick with all OEM mitsu timing belt parts, as well as MLS head gasket, ARP headstuds and i was thinking about ARP main studs as well.

As for the turbo selection. Ive decided to go with the S366 in a T3 version. The largest undivided T3 exhaust housing they make which is a 0.70 a/r. (which i think might be the same exhaust housing they use on the S200 series.. its the same T3 inlet, vband discharge and 0.70a/r) which is currently what im running now on my talon, so i can probably re-use my downpipe .

The S366 in a T3 has made wicked power on honda's, lots of guys over 700whp and trapping 150+ i know its a different setup, but it will save me money and time, since i can re-use my manifold, the turbo is cheaper, and i wont have to purchase another wastegate, make another dumptube(s), downpipe and no wait time on getting a new manifold. So i think it will be a good choice.

Next is the fuel system!

So what do you guys think? Am i on the right track?

Yes, indeed you are:
YouTube - cos's dsm goes 9.58
The guy in the video runs S366 with Shearer T3/undivided/, with divided turbine housing of 0.85AR. He made 719hp on Dynapak dyno and 675hp on Dyno Dynamics, on boost around 36-37 PSI...

As for turbo, you know better for yourself,but S366 can make arond 700WHP. If you want to go more, or faster-low 9's may be you step up aq little bit-S368-370. I think you can get divided with bigger AR, cause 0.70 is good for a street car, but turbo this size need at least0.83-0.95 AR's... Everything right now is up to your budget.

 

[slowgsr]

Thanks.

I thought it was a huge no-no to run divided exhaust housing turbo, on a manifold that wasn't divided. I guess im wrong?

If this is true, i could easily run the 0.85 a/r divided exhaust housing on my T3 mainfold. I basically want to go with as much turbo as i can well keeping my T3 manifold, and since its a street car, lag is a slight issue, but not a HUGE issue.

145-150mph are traps i would like to see, and mid 9's is faster than i want to go, a high high 9 would be awesome! Since there will be no cage or roll bar in this car, i won't get a lot of seat time at the track anyways.

Thanks, i will look into the T3 with a divided exhaust housing and a bigger A/R than the 0.70 i am currently looking at.

 

[stockfornow]

You being an AWD don't need 150MPH trap speeds if only going for high 9's....

 

[slowgsr]

Yes, indeed you are:
YouTube - cos's dsm goes 9.58
The guy in the video runs S366 with Shearer T3/undivided/, with divided turbine housing of 0.85AR. He made 719hp on Dynapak dyno and 675hp on Dyno Dynamics, on boost around 36-37 PSI...

As for turbo, you know better for yourself,but S366 can make arond 700WHP. If you want to go more, or faster-low 9's may be you step up aq little bit-S368-370. I think you can get divided with bigger AR, cause 0.70 is good for a street car, but turbo this size need at least0.83-0.95 AR's... Everything right now is up to your budget.

Thanks.

In the T3 configuration, the .70 A/R Turbine housing (yes, TURBINE housing) has a larger volute than the T3 .85A/R. This means that it can house a slightly larger 80mm diameter exhaust wheel than the other versions available.

Thats a quote i found from a VERY knowledgeable BW dealer!