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burping coolant

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Bluefire16

15+ Year Contributor
1,500
20
Mar 30, 2007
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Ok, so i have been told by a couple people on here, to burp my system, put the car on a incline, start the car with the radiator cap off, let it warm up....once its warm it will open the t stat and i will see the coolant start to run through the radiator cap area. Then continue to fill as needed.


Welll i did this and let my car run for like 20 mins. It was warm, bubbles come out for awhile, but the coolant never ran, it just filled...and then overflowed a bit.

So could it just be my BRAND NEW T-stat is not opening? And how long should the air take to get out about?
 
^^ Alright, thanks, and no it takes like 15 min of just sitting. Once it gets to normal temp and sits awhile thats when it starts to overflow.

Im really hoping my heating issues are simply because im only running 1 fan, and its current sitting in the position where the old AC fan was, so i might move it over more toward the tstat housing and temp sensor
 
water expands when it gets hot - gotta go somewhere. Water is one item that can't be compressed like air or other solid materials. It has only one density. Why you have that coolant recovery bottle to capture the overflow and return it to the system under vacuum within the cooling system (if it's properly sealed).

You can switch on the AC fan with the fan switch in the first position and the AC button pushed in ... (if you've disconnected/removed the rest of the AC stuff...)

Does the fan come on at a certain temp by itself?

-DSM
 
I'll take my method (drill a .050 peehole in the T-stat flange ) and save my $25 bucks ...much cheaper, easier and I've been doing that for years with excellent results.

Well that is one way to do it. I personally will leave my tstat alone. If mitsu wanted another hole in it they would have put it there. Plus unless you put the hole right at the absolute top of where the meets the housing the air bubble will just hide at the highest point behind the tstat.

The funnel is easy and puts some extra head pressure on your system to push bubbles out. Keeps my coolant off the floor while bleeding. $25 is small compared to all the money we put into these cars.
 
^^ alright for the 3rd time. I said THE WATER IS NOT FLOWING. It just builds up...so the T-STAT is not OPENING

OK SO I DONT HAVE A 10 SEC DSM, but it seems YOUR THERMOSTAT IS INSTALLED BACKWARDS, it wont open unless the passage temp in the engine reaches abou 220. wow, just wow.
 
I'll take my method (drill a .050 peehole in the T-stat flange ) and save my $25 bucks ...much cheaper, easier and I've been doing that for years with excellent results.

I thought that's what they put a jiggle valve on there for...if I got a thermostat without one I'd ask for a new one.
 
OK SO I DONT HAVE A 10 SEC DSM, but it seems YOUR THERMOSTAT IS INSTALLED BACKWARDS, it wont open unless the passage temp in the engine reaches abou 220. wow, just wow.

How would someone really go about putting in a thermostat backwards? I mean really? On our cars it seems pretty impossible. And after you remove the stock one you think i woudnt notice how to put it back in?

I have mine installed correctly. The spring goes IN towards the HEAD. Im not retarded.
 
You can't put the thermostat in upside-down. Nor can you go too far from mis-aligning the jiggle valve. The jiggle valve should point towards the back, though. That valve is just to get air bled, it serves no other function. If it is pointing towards the front then putting the car on an incline with the front higher will do the trick.
 
(sorry on the misconstrue on the .050 hole thing for I was thinking on T-stats that didn't have the jiggle valve where ours does..)

I wonder if the OP has more issues that what's presented here then ...

Here's what I do on checking levels: After the car has cooled down, I take the cap off an see where the coolant level in the neck is. It should be just below the lower cap seat.

You put coolant right below this cap seat area in the neck, then put coolant in the recovery bottle close up to the "H" line.

Make sure that the hose between recovery bottle cap and the connection to the filler neck is tight and secured-it needs the vacuum of the system for this connection to work. If you got a bad hose or sloppy connections, get them replaced or repaired.

Check the cap's rubber gaskets and replace the cap if necessary. Also, the two mating surfaces in the filler neck-the top surface and the lower seal surface are smooth and clean - no corrosion or just loaded with crud, for the gaskets in the cap will not seat properly if not clean and this will cause cooling issues as well. To clean, get a piece of that sponge with the green scratch pad on the other side and scrub away on the surfaces.

You run it for a few days and then check levels again. If the neck level has dropped, even considerably, you got come cooling issues going on that is beyond our control to help out where it could be a bad WP, leaky heater core, or HG that is cracked.

I'll quit there and let others finish up on this thread.

Good luck as always-DSM
 
As of now i think i have found the main issue. I used to run just 1 fan, the HUGE radiator fan. With with my 20g i had to remove it, and i just have a small slim fan in place. So i think its not helping to cool it at idle enough.

My cap is good, seals are fine.

Tstat is in correctly. I think i will add a hole just to help a little more coolant flow better.

Coolant bottle sealed correctly. Level rises but drops with cooling (so its working)

Comp came back like 150 145 130 130 (i didnt let the car fully warm up though, so im going to do it again just to be safe and check) So with that, im thinking a HG could have a crack.

Thanks for the info guys
 
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