BSE question and 6 bolt swap question

[onefast2gdsm]

Well I'm swapping my 6 bolt block in my 2g soon, and have a couple questions before I start getting ready. If I delete the balance shafts, I heard people getting ridiculous oil pressure. What steps can I take to make sure it doesn't get out of hand?

Also, since the 6 bolt block doesn't have a prevision on the block for the water lines like the 7 bolt does for the turbo, what should I use for the turbo coolant feed and return? Also, I'm using a 2g head.

 

[monster4g63tawd]

well keep your oil squirters in and you can also open up one of the holes in the oil filter housing. there is a thread on it just look up oil pressure and im sure you will find it.

 

[19Eclipse90]

For your oil pressure, port the oil filter housing pressure relief valve opening: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html#post151706115

Advice on the turbo coolant feed really depends on your thermostat/water pipe setup and your oil cooler setup. Fill us in with what year and, if a 1G, type (turbo or non-turbo) of thermostat/water pipe you are using and what oil cooler (air-cooled, water-cooled, or none) setup you are planning to use.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

The block is out of a 1990. I will be using the water pipe and water neck off of the 1990 head. The oil cooler is off of the same block, will be air cooled, still thinking of how I'm going to set it up.

 

[19Eclipse90]

That makes it really easy. Feed the turbo from the thermostat housing and return it to the water pipe as a '90 is set up to do. I'm quite certain I linked to this just the other day, but just in case here it is again:

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Hose #34 runs to a nipple on the thermostat housing and is for the turbo coolant feed. Return the coolant to the water pipe via the threaded boss/opening on the bottom side of the water pipe.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Thanks man I appreciate it. I'm a little nervous about doing that to the ofh for the oil pressure. It will be off the block anyway so ill take a look. Thanks again!

 

[19Eclipse90]

After reading/understanding the tech article really well, approach the OFH slowly and take your time with it. Remember to start small as you can always go bigger after that. If in doubt, you can always start a thread like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/399125-rate-my-ofh-port-job-pics.html. Good luck!

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Stupid question, but I looked at the front case after removing it and it already has a castle plug above the oil pump gear. Is it supposed to be there, also am I supposed to remove it for any reason.

 

[19Eclipse90]

It is supposed to be there and you shouldn't really ever need to remove it after doing a BSE with stub shaft unless you are changing its o-ring seal which, BTW, is a really good idea while you have it apart (~$2 from your local dealer, part number MD041021).

 

[onefast2gdsm]

So to be clear, in order to install the stub shaft I have to remove the plug? Also, I got the balance shaft off the front cover that by the oil pump gear, but I can't get the bolt off of the oil pump gear.

 

[19Eclipse90]

So to be clear, in order to install the stub shaft I have to remove the plug?

No. Since you have the front case off the engine, you can unbolt the internal cover for the oil pump (where the pick up screen bolts to) and pull the rear balance shaft (with the internal cover attached) out of the front case. Put the balance shaft in a vice or something to hold it and you can break the bolt holding the oil pump driven gear loose. When this is done, the driven gear can be pulled off and the oil pump cover can be removed from the balance shaft. Insert the stub shaft through the cover with the driven gear bolted on and torqued correctly, and you have installed the stub shaft without touching the castle plug.

The purpose of the castle plug (as far as I can tell) is to provide access to that bolt holding the rear shaft to the driven gear. BUT, it is only necessary when the front case is still on the engine, the engine is in the car, and the complete rear balance shaft is still installed.

Also, I got the balance shaft off the front cover that by the oil pump gear, but I can't get the bolt off of the oil pump gear.

I'm confused by what you are saying here. For the oil pump driven gear, see above. The oil pump drive gear is connected to the oil pump sprocket (the external one for the timing belt). To get that one undone and removed from the front case, you need the driven gear and a shaft (original or stub) installed. It is a very similar process, you need to hold the shaft from spinning (vise again) and break the oil pump sprocket nut loose. The internal oil pump gears will bind, providing the resistance needed to break the nut loose.

Does that help?

 

[onefast2gdsm]

I tried to losen it while itbwas attatched to a vice, and it didn't do anything. I used an impact gun and it wouldn't budge. I got the balance shaft belt drive gear bolt off easily. This one is being a pain. I got tired of it and just unbolted the rear cover and pulled the balance shaft that wayn

 

[KeelesKustome]

You can learn alot from my tribulations, in my threads here.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/387842-front-facing-oil-filter.html


I also have started a bunch more 6 bolt swap threads you may want to take a look at. If it can go wrong, it has, but so far I have been able to find a solution for every problem i have run across.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/399034-bse-oil-leak.html

 

[onefast2gdsm]

I'm confused on this coolant setup. On my water pipe where it would be on the passenger side of the car, I see where the coolant might be returned to, but there's threads in the hole. Am I missing a bolt of some sort?

 

[19Eclipse90]

Then you are missing the stock return line, #30 pictured below. You don't have to use the stock return line; that is, you could utilize the M16 x 1.5mm thread in the water pipe to fit something else there.

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Pic from: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/48231-installing-turbo-4g63-into-nt-4g63.html

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Thanks man. Sorry for all the questions I'm not familiar with 6 bolt motors. I have stainless lines for coolant I'm going to see if I can fab something up.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Ok so I got my bse kit and installed the freeze plug and new seals. When putting the stub shaft in, what do I torque the bolt to? also, the oil pump gears, how do I align them? I see notches in each gear but don't know if they have to be lined up or what. Also, the kit I have has 3 balance shaft bearings. One is completely blocked off, the other 2 have holes. What bearing goes where? Thanks in advance.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Stub shaft bolt requires the same torque as the normal shaft: 25-29 ft.-lbs. As for the rest of everything: Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install.

Cliffs: you line up the two oil pump gears by matching the dots on the gears together. You should only need the two bearings for the exhaust side of the block. Both of the front bearings have an oil hole but you need to install them by blocking the oil ports in the engine. The rear is solid if I remember correctly, but does not need to be replaced. The shorter bearing is in the front (belt side), the taller bearing is on the transmission side.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Well I think I installed the freezeplug the opposite of the last pic in the vfaq. The orange/brown surface is facing down and the black is facing up on mine. Will that affect anything. And thank you for the info

 

[19Eclipse90]

It will be fine with the black side up.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

by the way I ported the oil filter housing, can you tell me if it looks good or not.

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[19Eclipse90]

It looks fine to me though I'm somewhat guessing at where the relief piston would end when installed. If anything, you may flatten out the portion of the hole away from the gasket surface as suggested by the bell shape in one of the threads I linked before.

Something else to consider is that all cars are a bit different so your results may not be the same as another car. Starting small (as you did) will allow you to find out where your car is and whether or not it is in an acceptable/safe operating range.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

I put the piston in and on the opposite side of where it seals, you can see light. I hope this does not affect anything.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I actually think that's a little too much -- it'll make pressure more difficult to build depending on how much of a gap there is and will definitely spell trouble when cold starting. From the Tech Article linked in post #3:

Be careful that you don't remove too much and go past the end of the piston. It's easy to do if you're not checking it often. Several people on here have done it.
If too much material is removed and the piston no longer completely seals, you could have a really bad day due to low oil pressure. (Pressure is usually already low at idle as it is). -Thanks calan!

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Its the side closest to the gasket surface that you can see light thru. The side of piston that has the sealing groove or whatever it is, is on the opposite side.