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6 bolt swap question

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THE_ARTIST_

15+ Year Contributor
1,023
6
Jul 3, 2004
Mountain Home, Idaho
ok, im in the middle of a 6 bolt swap and we are having a problem figuring out how we are going to hook up the crank angle sensor. i am retaining my 2G head and it is an early 95 model so there isnt a cam angle sensor. we are having trouble figuring out how the plate for the CAS is going to fit up there, the one from my 7 bolt has 2 tabs sticking out where the sensor detects the crankshaft angle, and i orderd a 2G block only swap kit from SBR and it came with a plate but there are no extended tabs for the sensor to detect it, its just a circle. and with out the signal from the CAS the engine wont fire. i need to know how to hook it up properly. i appreciate it.

sorry i dont have any pictures, i dont have the camera with me right now.
 
the only thing i can get out of that is that i need a 1G CAS, but what i dont get is that i was told by someone at SBR that my crank angle sensor would work fine.
 
95-96 cars have 2 sensors. Cam angle sensor and crank angle sensor. Best thing to do is swap in a 1g CAS because it feeds both signals from one source from the 1g stock location. This is also good for maintenance issues. If either of the sensors for a 2g goes dead, you would have go through the timing belt to replace either of the 2 sensors. The 1g CAS is the best option as far as performance and maintenance. More timing adjustablility and easy to change.
 
is there some where that i can buy a 1G CAS other than mitsubishi? not really many junkyards here and last time i went there, there wernt any turbo dsms there.
 
I know alot of the earlier hyundai cars had the same cas as ours. I have two extra ones here if you need one. I can also send pics of how to properly hook up you cam sensor and crank sensor so they both work. Just let me know. You can also try www.mitsubishigraveyard or ebaymotors either site usually has a few for sale.
 
I got a 90 cas for sale if u want it. $20 + shipping. Its got the complete harness with plug, enough wire for you to do the wiring.
 
olmytsi said:
I got a 90 cas for sale if u want it. $20 + shipping. Its got the complete harness with plug, enough wire for you to do the wiring.

It needs to be a 91-94 CAS in order for it to run correctly.

You need to use the 91-94 style CAS because it is different on the 6 bolt blocks (As it HAS no Crank angle sensor since the Cam AS does both.)

Call RRE, they make a plug and play harness for 2g's doing the 6 bolt swaps. I think it's about 60-70 bucks but it saves you a lot of hassle.
 
THE_ARTIST_ said:
ok, im in the middle of a 6 bolt swap and we are having a problem figuring out how we are going to hook up the crank angle sensor. i am retaining my 2G head and it is an early 95 model so there isnt a cam angle sensor. we are having trouble figuring out how the plate for the CAS is going to fit up there, the one from my 7 bolt has 2 tabs sticking out where the sensor detects the crankshaft angle, and i orderd a 2G block only swap kit from SBR and it came with a plate but there are no extended tabs for the sensor to detect it, its just a circle. and with out the signal from the CAS the engine wont fire. i need to know how to hook it up properly. i appreciate it.

sorry i dont have any pictures, i dont have the camera with me right now.

Here's some advice from someone who has done this recently. Buy the harness fom RRE, it makes things stupid simple. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newproducts.htm and scroll halfway down. You DO have a cam angle sensor, for some unknown reason you are not the only person that has said this about 95-96 cars. Your cam angle sensor is located under the intake cam gear. There is no where for the crank angle sensor to bolt onto the 6 bolt block, you have to use a 1G cam angle sensor to drive both signals to the ECU or mod the front case the old RRE way, I would not suggest this though. After the swap be prepared for random misfire codes, if anyone tells you that you're less likely to get them with a 93-94 CAS then hope you get lucky, I use one and RM all the time without DSMlink set to ignore misfire codes.
 
sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I am in the middle of searching for answers and ran across this thread. In the first post, you asked about the CAS swap wiring and ect..

I need to know if a 97-99 OEM original CAS with original intake cam will work without ANY modification (I.E. 1g CAS and wiring)

Anyone?

gsxtacy
 
gsxtacy said:
sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I am in the middle of searching for answers and ran across this thread. In the first post, you asked about the CAS swap wiring and ect..

I need to know if a 97-99 OEM original CAS with original intake cam will work without ANY modification (I.E. 1g CAS and wiring)

Anyone?

gsxtacy


No, the 97-99 CAS cannot drive both signals to the ECU. You still need a 1G CAS and the harness or wire it yourself. As I said before I suggest using the harness, it makes things so much simpler.
 
You don't need the wiring harness ... it's pretty simple to rewire. You'll need a 1g cas but you can still use your stock intake cam. It will bolt right up.
 
Syndicate13 said:
Here's some advice from someone who has done this recently. Buy the harness fom RRE, it makes things stupid simple. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newproducts.htm and scroll halfway down. You DO have a cam angle sensor, for some unknown reason you are not the only person that has said this about 95-96 cars. Your cam angle sensor is located under the intake cam gear. There is no where for the crank angle sensor to bolt onto the 6 bolt block, you have to use a 1G cam angle sensor to drive both signals to the ECU or mod the front case the old RRE way, I would not suggest this though. After the swap be prepared for random misfire codes, if anyone tells you that you're less likely to get them with a 93-94 CAS then hope you get lucky, I use one and RM all the time without DSMlink set to ignore misfire codes.


You don't NEED dsmlink when doing a 6bolt swap. I have a jdm 6bolt in my car and just have the pot mod done. I also have no tuning issues at all and my car runs properly.
 
hellotbone said:
You don't NEED dsmlink when doing a 6bolt swap. I have a jdm 6bolt in my car and just have the pot mod done. I also have no tuning issues at all and my car runs properly.


With the pot mod some people run into timing issues. I don't believe in the pot mod and neither do a lot of other people. It's a backwoods way of dealing with the problem, the ECU references baro for a reason. :thumb:
 
Syndicate13 said:
With the pot mod some people run into timing issues. I don't believe in the pot mod and neither do a lot of other people. It's a backwoods way of dealing with the problem, the ECU references baro for a reason. :thumb:

Then hook a potentiometer up to the intake air temperature wire and add resistance until that gets under -10 celcius and this will also stop the misfire problem. All you have to do is hook up your datalogger and view the outside temperature and keep turning the knob until it's less than -10. Once that's accomplished just retune and no more problems. This way your car will run too rich rather than too lean, and it also won't mess with your timing at all and retuning it will be very simple.
 
Syndicate13 said:
With the pot mod some people run into timing issues. I don't believe in the pot mod and neither do a lot of other people. It's a backwoods way of dealing with the problem, the ECU references baro for a reason. :thumb:

Yes but with a DIS II if you had the problem you can have it pull timing for you. I have no problems with the pot mod and tuning and no timing issues. Also don't forget with the 1G CAS "IF" you had timing issues you can reduce the base timing.
 
hellotbone said:
Yes but with a DIS II if you had the problem you can have it pull timing for you. I have no problems with the pot mod and tuning and no timing issues. Also don't forget with the 1G CAS "IF" you had timing issues you can reduce the base timing.


So what would someone do if they didn't have another way to control timing? The timing map is not always the same, it changes based on load and airflow. Setting the base timing retarded so it's not too high in one instance doesn't mean for certain that it will be where you want (or need) it in another. Yes the pot mod does work, but is it really the best way to go about "correcting" the problem?
 
Well for me I don't use the MSD to retard timing and I don't have my base set back any either its where it should be and I don't have any timing issues or tuning issues.
 
I have the same problem too but i don't have a logger, s-afc or anything to monitor with, i know i had the car scanned and it had random misifre on all cilinders, i have the 6-bolt swap too so i know it's that, should i do the pot mod even if i don't have any way of monitoring what's going on?? Is it too dangerous?
 
Race94 said:
I have the same problem too but i don't have a logger, s-afc or anything to monitor with, i know i had the car scanned and it had random misifre on all cilinders, i have the 6-bolt swap too so i know it's that, should i do the pot mod even if i don't have any way of monitoring what's going on?? Is it too dangerous?


NO, YES.
 
sherloc123 said:
what if you use a 2g head with a 6bolt? then what cas sensor do you use?

Your profile shows that you have a 1G, you need to use a 1G CAS and I don't see a reason to swap a 2G head onto your car. If you're asking for general knowledge then for a 6 bolt swap into a 2G you need to use a 1G CAS.
 
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