2G Brake line replacement options

[MasterMatt209]

My 2g has been sitting for a while due to a busted brake line under the car. After working on the engine and cleaning the car up over time it’s time to get the brakes fixed. From my observation I’m looking at replacing all of the hard brake lines under the car. So all new brake lines at that point.

I need advice on how I should go about this. Is there a kit someone makes? I know of the caliper to hard line kits. But I need the the long ones under the car. Any tips or advice to make this job easier for me? It is a GSX if that’s useful info as well.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

You can make your own copper/nickel lines which would be somewhat cost effective after buying a few reels and flaring tool. Or you can opt to go full stainless lines. No one makes the under car lines im afraid. When i made my lines from stainless i decided to route them inside the car but im no way near stock anymore so its not really the best option to follow. You can have kits made up to your specific needs but you have to measure everything and angles and brackets etc. If you got time its well worth going this route for long lasting

 

[MasterMatt209]

You can make your own copper/nickel lines which would be somewhat cost effective after buying a few reels and flaring tool. Or you can opt to go full stainless lines. No one makes the under car lines im afraid. When i made my lines from stainless i decided to route them inside the car but im no way near stock anymore so its not really the best option to follow. You can have kits made up to your specific needs but you have to measure everything and angles and brackets etc. If you got time its well worth going this route for long lasting

I appreciate your reply. Where would I go to get the kit made? You think I’d have any luck searching if anyone else has done the measurements before? Could save me time and possible error as well if I do decide to have them made.
The appealing part of the copper/nickel lines is I’ve read they’re pretty easy to work with easy to manipulate bends and such.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I appreciate your reply. Where would I go to get the kit made? You think I’d have any luck searching if anyone else has done the measurements before? Could save me time and possible error as well if I do decide to have them made.
The appealing part of the copper/nickel lines is I’ve read they’re pretty easy to work with easy to manipulate bends and such.

Copper nickel is very easy to work with, i did mine this way originally till i went dual masters then went custom stainless lines inside.

Years ago i asked JNZ tuning about a full kit and he had no data for it. If you wish to go stainless then my advice is to buy some string and follow the oem lines and see what 2 lengths you get. You could also save money by going to the calipers instead of a connection if you wish.

 

[XC92]

You could always just cut the part of the broken line out and patch it with a short length of line with the proper fittings, unless the lines are all in bad shape, in which case you should replace them all, and as others have said can do it yourself if you feel up to it with nicopp and a double flaring tool and line cutter (which can be rented for free at most chain auto stores).

If you do go this route, make sure to practice making proper flares on short pieces of scrap line before you do it for real. The hard part is routing the end parts of each line as they're not always easy to get to (although in my Talon it doesn't look too bad, but when I tried to do it on my mom's Camry, I gave up because they go through all sorts of hidden passages so I had a shop patch the bad line, which has held up).

 

[dustyboner]

you could hit up Shamrock tube and hose (if it were my business it would be "tube and HOEs,")

from their website:

We have a full database of vehicles and fit information for all types of cars trucks and SUV’s. If you have a special need such as extended lengths it is no problem for Shamrock to build what you need.

Capabilities - Shamrock Tube and Hose

Shamrock is a full service Tube and Hose manufacturing company. No matter what you need we can manufacture a solution using brand new rubber and easily bendable tube cut and flared with fittings to your exact specifications. We have a full database of vehicles and fit information for all types...

www.shamrocktubeandhose.com

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I did what @ec17pse did and bought a 25' coil for the rear of my 1g. It was PERFECT in length, EASY to manipulate with or without a tube bender and was enough to go from the proportioning valve back to both rear calipers in the stock tube holders. If ANY of your hard lines are rusty, replace them ALL. I got lucky and one rear hard line blew out when I was in my yard, not trying to exit a highway at 65mph. Do it once and feel safe!

 

[MasterMatt209]

Copper nickel is very easy to work with, i did mine this way originally till i went dual masters then went custom stainless lines inside.

Years ago i asked JNZ tuning about a full kit and he had no data for it. If you wish to go stainless then my advice is to buy some string and follow the oem lines and see what 2 lengths you get. You could also save money by going to the calipers instead of a connection if you wish.

Why the change to stainless? I wish someone would put together a full kit already I feel like that would be a good idea.

 

[MasterMatt209]

You could always just cut the part of the broken line out and patch it with a short length of line with the proper fittings, unless the lines are all in bad shape, in which case you should replace them all, and as others have said can do it yourself if you feel up to it with nicopp and a double flaring tool and line cutter (which can be rented for free at most chain auto stores).

If you do go this route, make sure to practice making proper flares on short pieces of scrap line before you do it for real. The hard part is routing the end parts of each line as they're not always easy to get to (although in my Talon it doesn't look too bad, but when I tried to do it on my mom's Camry, I gave up because they go through all sorts of hidden passages so I had a shop patch the bad line, which has held up).

The lines are pretty bad if I spliced in some fresh line I wouldn’t feel safe but it had crossed my mind but it’s just too far gone. I appreciate the reply and advice.

you could hit up Shamrock tube and hose (if it were my business it would be "tube and HOEs,")

from their website:

Capabilities - Shamrock Tube and Hose

Shamrock is a full service Tube and Hose manufacturing company. No matter what you need we can manufacture a solution using brand new rubber and easily bendable tube cut and flared with fittings to your exact specifications. We have a full database of vehicles and fit information for all types...

www.shamrocktubeandhose.com

Thank you I will contact them and see if that is a possible route for me.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Why the change to stainless? I wish someone would put together a full kit already I feel like that would be a good idea.

Well the factory hardlines corrode and they get messy. Copper/nickel is good but will eventually corrode but after like 20 years, stainless is not needed but its just another piece thats visually better aswel and the stainless performance aspect of the lines, us you can do many colours so its nicer for the owner to be custom too

 

[MasterMatt209]

I did what @ec17pse did and bought a 25' coil for the rear of my 1g. It was PERFECT in length, EASY to manipulate with or without a tube bender and was enough to go from the proportioning valve back to both rear calipers in the stock tube holders. If ANY of your hard lines are rusty, replace them ALL. I got lucky and one rear hard line blew out when I was in my yard, not trying to exit a highway at 65mph. Do it once and feel safe!

Thank you for the advice I will definitely be replacing all of the lines. The salty Indiana roads has them all on their last leg even though only one busted. This is for my 2g how hard is this going to be? I’d like to save the money and tackle this with a little bit of help in my driveway. I don’t have to do anything crazy like drop the subframe or anything correct?

 

[MasterMatt209]

Well the factory hardlines corrode and they get messy. Copper/nickel is good but will eventually corrode but after like 20 years, stainless is not needed but its just another piece thats visually better aswel and the stainless performance aspect of the lines, us you can do many colours so its nicer for the owner to be custom too

Stainless seems so appealing but I’m not sure how great that would go being my first time doing brake lines in my driveway. My goal is to have this car on the drag strip next year. Such a tough decision I’ll have to look into cost.

On another note. There is zero break fluid in the reservoir or lines. Is there anything I should do before I replace the brake lines like gasket at the brake master cylinder or anything? Maybe take anything off to clean?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Stainless seems so appealing but I’m not sure how great that would go being my first time doing brake lines in my driveway. My goal is to have this car on the drag strip next year. Such a tough decision I’ll have to look into cost.

On another note. There is zero break fluid in the reservoir or lines. Is there anything I should do before I replace the brake lines like gasket at the brake master cylinder or anything? Maybe take anything off to clean?

Stainless lines are all screw on, not are flared via hardline. The lines are the same stainless as the caliper type lines sold so are flexible and all you do it tally up the same thead and flare for it and screw it in so its alot wasier then using a flare tool for it.

If your MC is not leaking then change nothing.

 

[MasterMatt209]

Stainless lines are all screw on, not are flared via hardline. The lines are the same stainless as the caliper type lines sold so are flexible and all you do it tally up the same thead and flare for it and screw it in so its alot wasier then using a flare tool for it.

If your MC is not leaking then change nothing.

Really is there a chance you could link me what you’re talking about? Just trying to weigh all my options here and make something that will last

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Really is there a chance you could link me what you’re talking about? Just trying to weigh all my options here and make something that will last

Its like these lines but longer for the entire car and not iust from hard lines to calipers https://www.rlmotorservices.co.uk/hel-brake-hoses/

 

[MasterMatt209]

Its like these lines but longer for the entire car and not iust from hard lines to calipers https://www.rlmotorservices.co.uk/hel-brake-hoses/

So like AN lines and fittings?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

So like AN lines and fittings?

No these are not like those. More like high pressure lines if anything.

 

[MasterMatt209]

No these are not like those. More like high pressure lines if anything.

Oh okay I understand

 

[pauleyman]

An abs delete kit in stainless braided is 250$ I'm guessing trying to do the whole car would be 1000$ or more. It's not cost effective. In Bobby's case sounds like he wanted more custom and put them inside as well. A fine solution but most of us are probably better off with hardline.
I'd really like to hear an opinion here also, I see no advantage at all for long lengths of flexible line for braking performance. It's solely for ease of install and routing?? The last few feet I get, replace the rubber lines but for the lines that don't move???
Same thing for clutches. I never understood why people replace the hardline back to the master.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

In my case Paul, I blew a line goofing around in my yard (practice launches in the grass) and when I hit the brakes, I blew a hard line that was covered in rust so I replaced it all since I drag race and didn't want it to blow another line somewhere else, as they all looked like they were in the same condition. The shutdown area isn't long and you would run off into a pasture if you had a bad brake failure.

 

[MasterMatt209]

An abs delete kit in stainless braided is 250$ I'm guessing trying to do the whole car would be 1000$ or more. It's not cost effective. In Bobby's case sounds like he wanted more custom and put them inside as well. A fine solution but most of us are probably better off with hardline.
I'd really like to hear an opinion here also, I see no advantage at all for long lengths of flexible line for braking performance. It's solely for ease of install and routing?? The last few feet I get, replace the rubber lines but for the lines that don't move???
Same thing for clutches. I never understood why people replace the hardline back to the master.

Yeah if it’s that expensive I’m good.

I think I’m between nickel copper and does anyone have any thoughts on this stuff?

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I am still a firm believer in this. It is non-corrosive and made for the harshest environments.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Once you use it, you will understand how easy it is to use and to flare.

 

[MasterMatt209]

I am still a firm believer in this. It is non-corrosive and made for the harshest environments.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Once you use it, you will understand how easy it is to use and to flare.

That’s exactly what I need? The size and stuff? If so that’s exactly what I’ll get. I want to do this right and have a good solid DSM to show for it

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

An abs delete kit in stainless braided is 250$ I'm guessing trying to do the whole car would be 1000$ or more. It's not cost effective. In Bobby's case sounds like he wanted more custom and put them inside as well. A fine solution but most of us are probably better off with hardline.
I'd really like to hear an opinion here also, I see no advantage at all for long lengths of flexible line for braking performance. It's solely for ease of install and routing?? The last few feet I get, replace the rubber lines but for the lines that don't move???
Same thing for clutches. I never understood why people replace the hardline back to the master.

I can assure you it was NOT that expensive . i think i did my whole car for about $300 ish and that was all custom to my lengths but direct to the calipers and im dual masters so i got a single line inside the car T'd off to the rears and same on the fronts. the 1k you speak off might be about the cost of the entire job with masters and fluids though but just for lines it was not mega expensive

I just looked and as a rough guess for 2 lengths to run back to the rear of the chassis but using normal lines from the chassis to the calipers its around $250 for both. if its replacing both rear lines also then i think an extra 50 ish would be ok for the extra length maybe less then 50 even. you could use 2 fittings for each line then having a connection further saving costs also as whats a set of 4 brake lines nowadys, 150 ish?

not only is it stainless so will outlast the car most of the time its also alot more flexible and tougher since they have a skin then a braided layer on them so can resist more wear in general