Borg Warner S200 (Bullseye S256) Review

[AWDer]

I will try to get another log as soon as I can, but for now I am trying to figure out why my brake and battery lights are still on. I am seeing 14.1-14.3 volts during cruise and 13.8-14 during idle. The battery is recharging. Both the battery and alternator are new. The alternator fuse is obviously good. I have gone through all grounds and by all measurements everything seems perfect, but these lights are ALWAYS on. I am thinking maybe it is just a signal wire to the dash or ECU. I have had the multimeter out all evening and haven't seen anything out of the norm. I am trying to figure out what I should be seeing at the four wires with the alternator plug.

Josh

 

[95GSXBLUR]

I'm having alternator issues now.. DAMN! ever since I relocated the battery, I've had issues. It's a brand new alternator and JUST TODAY I was out tuning - got the boost down and under control - and Did a quick pull and the SOB just dropped to 12 volts.. and I'm like huh. Get home, check all connections, meter all connections, and the alternator is only putting out 12V barely enough to maintain battery voltage. I guess it's off to get a new one of those.. damn.

These cars and their electrical problems. Anyway - my logs are on my laptop and I'm on my desktop. Yeah I need to get my MAF calibrated... but everytime I try to tune, something stupid happens.. IE the crap above.

 

[2gGSX]

The last two posts give me the heebie jeebies. If I have a voltage issue as well I'm going to have to sacrifice a goat or two to appease the DSM gods.

 

[AWDer]

, it always happens right as I am getting comfortable enough to start tuning. I have narrowed the problem down to a single wire on mine.

The red wire going to the alternator plug is suppose to receive a constant +12 volt supply, mine is seeing one volt. I am not sure of the function of the wire completely, but it does not seem to effect the way it runs and charges. I am now trying to trace the wire and figure out where it went wrong and what it's actual source of the constant power supply is. I know it eventually receives it's supply from the battery, but obviously it is not just a wire attached to the battery. I am trying to figure out where it goes in between. Anybody that has already gone through this part of the harness should chime in, because I really don't want to have to cut back the plastic and tape to trace it everywhere.

This is all that is currently holding me back. I may even go and race in this Sunday's Street Tuner Mayhem if I can get it fixed in time to tune also.

I hope you guy's have better luck, especially with the electrical garbage.

Josh

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Ah yes, I dealt with that just a month earlier. I went through 2 batteries and 3 alternators before I got a good pair autozone warranties ftw, autozone products ftl!

 

[T9S1i]

Ah yes, I dealt with that just a month earlier. I went through 2 batteries and 3 alternators before I got a good pair autozone warranties ftw, autozone products ftl!

+1, same story, but kragen!!!

Gotta love a million mile warranty for an alternator on a dsm that has high heat from one side and power steering fluid dropping from the top, and not to mention the dipstick that pops out once in a while. haha, ive milked like 10 alternators from my 1 that i bought YEARS ago with my first GST!

 

[AWDer]

I wish it was as easy as an alternator for me. I have this stupid wiring problem. I have point B of the wire and need point A. I do have the lifetime warranty alternator though.

Josh

 

[We're on Boost]

Dipstick, ha ya, try rotating it 180 degrees (backwards). Stays in better for some lame reason.
Alternator - I've got a NAPA RAY138257 and it seems to be a good one. Don't have many miles on it yet though.
NAPAONLINE®

AWDer's wiring problem - Chilton repair manual for 90-98 Eclipse:
Eclipse 91-97 turbo Page 6-53 diagram 12 shows a black and red wire going from the voltage regulator in the alternator to a fuse, "fuse link 5". Talon 95-98 turbo Page 6-57 diagram 16 shows exactly the same thing. Neither one shows a pure red wire on the alternator. I could scan this if you want.

Gary

 

[AWDer]

If you could scan it that would be awesome. I could try and trace a manual down, but you scanning it may be cheaper. I know it goes to the 40 amp headlamp fuse, due to a very informative PM I got this morning. I am going to test the wires on my friend's working Talon to compare the numbers to mine.

Josh

 

[95GSXBLUR]

From my understanding the 2.4L Spyder Automatic Alternator works for our cars and is a 90amp OEM alternator.. That's what I'll be trying next if this one fails.

I got it back installed. I have to give a speech in an hour, but when I get back it's round 2 of tuning etc

Need some calibration and get everything under control. Again, I'll be down in Indy tomorrow with it to try and get these damn leaks figured out. they're really starting to make me extremely pissed. especially the Power steering leak.

HOW DOES A FLAIR-NUT FITTING LEAK! WTF honestly? it's never been touched or damaged... and it's definitely not loose. I'm debating where or not to do a a manual rack, or just disconnect the pump's belt. AHHHH so angry

 

[We're on Boost]

HOW DOES A FLAIR-NUT FITTING LEAK!

I had to replace all the steering hoses on my car when I first bought it. It was a mess, every single hose was leaking. Mostly they were seeping right through the rubber. The low pressure hoses I bought from a Chrysler dealer believe it or not, and the big high pressure hose with the banjo fitting on the end I bought from NAPA and it was perfect. Install was a bi***, I didn't do it myself. I had it done by a shop I trust a lot. As I remember they undid the motor mounts so they could move the engine a little bit. They also found that the hollow bolt thru the banjo fitting on the pump was bent so we bought a new one of those. Also installed a new (reman) rack at the same time, so everything was new except the pump itself. The results were perfect. I really love the power steering on that car. It's quick and has good feel. I know a lot of guys swap over to the manual rack, but I'm going to stick with power. It's a fairly heavy car with a very forward weight bias and of course lots of torque to the front wheels. All the wrong ingredients for manual steering.

Gary

 

[95GSXBLUR]

well, the alternator is shot again. WTF a day old. I'm getting the terrible "3 light syndrome" coolant/Battery/Brake light set up intermittantly. Ahh the joys of a DSM. and crappy autozone alternators.

I'm going to get my money back and either buy a mitsu one or a Alterstart 135Amp one. They carry lifetime warranties... and could possibly be cheaper than the 2.4L 90 amp one.. I'd like the extra amperage just for that added assurance.

As far as power steering goes... it's a hard line.. that connects one side of the rack to the other. The fitting is the most driver side one, under the car and it runs over to the top/inner most passenger fitting, if I remember correctly. So it's very strange why a hardline with a flare would be leaking. I doesn't make any sense.

I'm still going to see if I can make it down to Indy tomorrow to get my leaks fixed (60-75 minute drive) - I'm also having a buddy follow me. I'll let you guys know tomorrow night.

 

[me612]

Well I got home from Spain on Sunday. Took the whole week off work to get some stuff done. Got lots done on the car. Was able to start it up for the first time just to make sure it would start. Exhaust will be built sometime this week hopefully, dropping it off at the shop who will be building it tomorrow evening.

S362, .70 T3

YouTube - S362 Start-up

 

[T9S1i]

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!

Haha, nice to see it run! hurry up and get the exhaust on so we can see some # and some moving videos!

 

[IPT]

Please Please route that oil line some other way... Going right through two runners on the manifold is only going to heat up that oil and cause problems.

 

[me612]

That isn't my oil line. You can see my oil line in the picture, just barely to the right of the compressor housing curving straight down. What I think you're talking about is the O2 sensor wire hanging there since the exhaust isn't built yet. It'll take more then idling for 15 seconds to get the manifold hot enough to damage it.

But I appreciate the concern.

 

[chavez408]

Bringing it back to life. Do the s200 have a 3" or 4" inlet?

 

[95GSXBLUR]

It has a 4" Inlet.

 

[We're on Boost]

Here's an interesting tidbit that would be worth following up on. This was posted in SRTforums. At some point I think AGP and Turbotrix would have threads about their results in Evolutionm.net.
The shops have all been at it to see who can come up with the best stuff and most hp for the evo X. I haven't checked lately, but last I knew they were all kinda stuck on engine management issues.

Gary

 

[chavez408]

No more?

 

[We're on Boost]

No more?

I think they have more now. That was about 10 days ago.
What I thought was interesting is that AGP is going to try for 500 to 550 awhp on their evo X test car with an S256. The turbo they've been working with so far on the X is a 20g. They made 430 hp with that. So now for their next step up they are apparently going to skip the 50 trims and go directly to the S256. Turbotrix apparently doing the same thing.

Gary

 

[chavez408]

I still don't get it. Are the s256 and s258's 50 trims? Or more like a 30r..?
What do they compare to?

 

[Steve93Talon]

I still don't get it. Are the s256 and s258's 50 trims? Or more like a 30r..?
What do they compare to?

The S256 is a "50 trim" but bear in mind that trim is just a calculation of the ratio between the inducer and exducer of the compressor wheel and is pretty much a meaningless number.

The S256 is about equal to a GT3076R in terms of power potential. The S362 is pretty close to a 35r, while the S258 falls right in between the two.

 

[chavez408]

Cool thanks steve! That clears it up.

 

[IPT]

The S200s are not that hard to get ahold of you just have to know where to order them at. Martin at VIP garage usually has them.