Boost not as high as it should be

[anmsk8r]

I have a stock boost gauge. I modified the BCS a while ago and the needle would always go up to "14" psi at full boost, but recently I noticed that its barely going above 7 psi. Anyone know why this could be happening?

 

[liquordrunk]

I have a stock boost gauge. I modified the BCS a while ago and the needle would always go up to "14" psi at full boost, but recently I noticed that its barely going above 7 psi. Anyone know why this could be happening?

Because the stock boost gauge is trash. Have you noticed any difference in performance with the car? You have a boost leak. or your gauge is messing up. Or you have a faulty wastegate arm.

 

[ddavisaf]

Get an aftermarket boost gauge. Check for shaft play on the turbo. Do a boost leak test. And get an aftermarket boost gauge.

P.S. Get an aftermarket boost gauge.

 

[anmsk8r]

Yeah I plan on getting a new boost gauge and i know the stock one is crap. Its just that the needle isnt going as high as it would before and even my friends have noticed that when i go WOT it doesnt push them back in their seats like it used to. I checked the turbo for play like 2 months ago and it was fine but i guess it wouldnt hurt to check again. Also my oil pressure is always all the way low unless I'm driving(it will go up to about half way), but it never goes above half at any time. Is that normal? (I'm not low on oil so oil change isn't a solution)

 

[anmsk8r]

ok i put an autometer boost gauge on today. It reads 7 psi max boost. I also noticed while revving the engine with hood open i see exhaust in the engine which probably mean i have a crack in my exhaust manifold, right? Is that the reason I'm only getting 7 psi? Because it should be between 9 and 12 psi.

 

[project_tsi]

You have a boost leak, and sounds like an exhaust leak too. Are you getting slower spool from your turbo now too? An exhaust leak will cause slow spool and can limit your full boosting capabilities. Get the ex. leak fixed, and go a goddamn boost leak test already. You most likely could have not needed to start this thread if you had performed a boost leak test beforehand.

 

[SBstar]

You might have a boost leak, but you also might have a bad MAS. My problem seems to be my mas has gone bad leaving me running about 5-6 psi of boost. I'm also going to do a boost leak test I'll let you know how that goes.

 

[anmsk8r]

Did a boost leak test. I hear air coming out of somewhere near the turbo outlet or in that general area at least. Can't pinpoint the source though. Is there a common place in that area to have a leak? I ordered a 2g manifold so it should come soon and i can tell you how it improves.

 

[DSM MAN]

Hey don't mean to jack your thread just have a question about boost leak testing that might help you too. I have tried to do a boost leak test, but I have no leaks even when I could swear I do. I put the the tester on the turbo real tight, put 20psi of air in and nothing. Now, I remember last time I did a leak test I had air coming out of the bcs tube. But this time did not??? Anybody see anything wrong with this? Thanks.

P.s. Your leak sounds like its either coming from the bcs tube that goes to the intake which is what happenend to me because I had to plug it up(maybe your not) or the lower intercooler pipe that bolts to the turbo. Good luck.

 

[Z28kindaguy]

DSM MAN, I'm wondering when you had that previous boost leak, wasn't there a leak coming from somewhere also along with the bcs tube? If that is the case then modifying the bcs may trigger other leaks to spring up. Also, if you are having exhaust coming out of the hood then you are having an exhuast leak. Along with boost leaks, both those combined will give a very noticeable difference in psi. hope this helps.

 

[GoldenBoy42]

A good way to pinpoint a leak is to get a spray bottle, fill it up with some luke warm water and add a touch of common household liquid soap. Listen for wherever the hiss is coming from and start spraying stuff down. I think you'll find the problem pretty fast.

 

[anmsk8r]

OK thanks. I'll try spraying the area with soapy water and see what i can find. The only thing is that it sounds like the leak is kind of in an area that is hard to see or access but i'll see what I can do.

 

[anmsk8r]

I cant get the 3 stupid bolts on the exhaust manifold to come loose. Any tips to get those to come off? I've already broken 2 ratchets trying to get them off. Also.. 2 of the bolts that connect the manifold to the head cracked off. How exactly do you remove those?

 

[ddavisaf]

Soak 'em in PB Blaster overnight. Don't use ratchets. They're not made to break torque. For the turbo to manifold bolts use a breaker bar with a 14mm socket. For the manifold to head bolts I use two wrenches. Using two wrenches in the modern world is frowned upon, however I find it's much easier as you can break the torque very easily. Soak everything in PB Blaster to make life easier.

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

Power tools . Alos common spot for a boost leak is the j-pipe. but looks like your figuring it out.

 

[anmsk8r]

ok thank you. i got the bolts out and the nuts off of the manifold/head studs. i also unbolted to downpipe. I'm tryin to take my exhaust manifold off. it would be much easier if that turbo/manifold stud wasn't there. How do you suppose I remove it? i tried vise grips. Right now im JB welding a nut to the the stud but that probably wont hold much torque so i dont know what i should do. I tried to push the turbo down to be able to get the metal ring out from between the manifold and turbo but they won't seperate enough for me to get it out. Help please!

 

[oldman]

Since the Downpipe is off, you can wiggle the manifold out of the head slowly because the turbo is only being held down by the oil and coolant lines, just be patient and not to damage the oil return line. Once you get it out, replace the stud with another turbo bolt to simplify your next encounter.

 

[anmsk8r]

Thanks Oldman. I'm almost able to get the manifold off of the head studs but there are two lines that are being pushed together. I think it is the oil feed line and maybe a coolant line. The oil feed line is not allowing me to pull the manifold off the studs all the way. I tried taking the studs out. If i want to unbolt the oil feed line top eyebolt that connects the line to the head, do I have to drain all the oil?

 

[oldman]

No, you don't need to drain the oil, just have a cloth ready. Make sure you replace the two copper crush washers for the banjo bolt.

 

[RyanTSi]

Okay, I just finished having this problem, getting the manifold off. I cursed the car for a good 45 mins. I know it seems that you need to push the turbo down to get the mani off, but don't. Push the manifold all the way against the head. Then pull the turbo back up to the manifold, Then you can pull the manifold away, and work it away from the stud. I just remember it was so easy to get off, I was just pissing myself off trying to do something that wasn't going to work. I may not be exactly right on the order of operations there, because it was a week ago, (and definitely replace the stud) but I had to step back for a minute and just stare at the manifold before I figured it out. Also remember, whenever you are doing something delicate on your car and get pissed off.... WALK AWAY!!! At least for 30 mins or so. I f'ed up my head and now I have to pull it, all because I was too stubborn to stop what I was doing. I hope that helps out as far as pulling the manifold, I did have the oil return pipe and coolant lines disconnected though. It really is alot easier than it looks and once you figure it out, you feel kind of dumb. Good luck with it.

-Ryan

 

[anmsk8r]

Thank you oldman and ryan. I managed to finally get it off!! Is it necessary to replace the two copper washers oldman?
Now my next concern is getting out the studs that broke off in the head. There's nothing sticking out to grab onto. Should I get a certain type of drill bit to drill through the studs? Luckily the bottom middle stud came out without breaking...

 

[RyanTSi]

A Pretty good guide is right here
I went to Home depot and asked about reverse drill bits today, and they didn't know what I was talking about, said it reminded him of someone who asked him muffler bearings
Anyway, patience is the most important thing here. If you piss it away like Ive done, you'll be doing like I will tomorrow, and pulling the head. Its probably due for a dang valve job anyhow.
Be liberal with the PB blaster, stuff a shop towel or rag in the exhaust port underneath the stud, and well as your turbo intake, and exhaust ports. That way you dint get metal shavings or anything else unwanted in there while the car is down.
When you start with the pilot hole though, it needs to be as dead center as possible, you'd do best with a variable speed drill. My drill has two speeds, off and fast, and I screwed myself. But like I said before, dont get mad!!!! Take a break, drink a beer, stare at it for a minute, and then try again.
Best of luck with it and let us know how it goes...
"Learn from the mistakes of others, you'll never live long enough to make them all yourself."

Ryan

 

[anmsk8r]

Thanks Ryan. Looks like this isn't going to be very fun... But anyways, after i got the manifold off I looked at the turbine inlet and it looks REALLY messed up. The only way i can describe it is craggly and bumpy. I don't think it's supposed to look like that. I wish i had a camera to take a picture of it. I think it needs a severe porting job.

Oh and I forgot to mention, I went to Home depot and asked if they had any stud removal tools and they told me that a crow bar would be my best bet.. -_-. It looks like your method might work better I ended up getting a stud/screw extractor kit from a hardware store. The thing is, it just seems that the drill bit doesn't really want to drill into the stud. I'm kind of getting scared now... I really don't want to have to take the head off. Should it be pretty difficult to get a pilot hole started? Anyone in the Portland/Vancouver area want to help me?

 

[RyanTSi]

As far as the turbine inlet goes, it should look something like this..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195819
Without the white deposits. Should be really clean, really smooth.

About the stud. It isnt going to be easy. like I said, I f'ed it up and Im pulling the head off. Im just south of you on the island, would come up there but its late on a sunday and I gotta work tomorrow. I think your like 2 hours away.
How much of the stud is sticking out? Is there any? Which stud is it? You really have to watch out because there are coolant passages behind some (most) of the studs. I drilled into one because Im stubborn, and I dont know how tough the repair is going to be. Did you tap the center with a punch to keep the bit from walking too much? And did you spray it with PB blaster? Its tough to get started but cobalt drill bits will help alot, they are less prone to snapping. Start really small, work in the center, and apply only a little pressure (too much and youll break the bit), I found that if you arent getting anywhere, just move up one bit size for a minute.

I hope that helps out, and BTW, just how far from me are you? I cant get up there 2nite, but being able to get the for future issues shouldnt be a problem.

-Ryan

 

[anmsk8r]

You're a little north of Seattle aren't you? Man..I'm south of you like 4 hrs next to portland oregon. Thanks for the offer though.
And sorry..when i said turbo inlet i meant the inlet that the exhaust goes into after the exhaust leaves the manifold.

Sorry for the noob questions but, if i want to take the turbine housing off, do i have to drain any fluids? And how do you take the wasgate actuator rod off?(Im havin a really hard time getting the bolts off that hold the lower heatshield on. I thin all bolts/studs hate me..)