Boost Leak Test Question...

[aceofriches]

How do you test boost leak?? It says in the upgrade path to build something with a bicycle pump-- HOW???

 

[MrBoxx]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

It's much easier to use a compressor or air tank than a bike pump. You'll be pumping forever if you have a large enough leak.

 

[oldman]

You'll be pumping forever if you have a large enough leak.

That is if it would even work at all.

 

[aceofriches]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

It's much easier to use a compressor or air tank than a bike pump. You'll be pumping forever if you have a large enough leak.

Does the contraption hook to the turbo inlet or too the IC piping

 

[viprez586]

If you use a compressor make sure you regulate it, you dont want full air pressure going into your system. Regulate it to roughly 20psi or how ever much boost you plan on running.









Also that search button works, and this topic has been covered.

 

[lilGSXthatcould]

It is best to hook it up to the ic piping due to the chance of messing up the seals in the turbo.

 

[oldman]

It is best to hook it up to the ic piping due to the chance of messing up the seals in the turbo.

Not exactly, something I posted in the past.

Originally Posted by BLT procedures
1. Disable your mbc.

2. Turn your motor to 30* ATDC to avoid valve overlap.

3. Start your test at the TB elbow and focus on area behind the TB first.

4. Spray soapy water at TB gasket, BISS, TB shaft on both sides, IM gasket, injector insulators, brake booster, afpr and all vacuum lines/connections.

5. Open your oil cap and listen for leaks. (PCV, valve seals/guide, rings)

5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing, bent/unseated valves)

6. Once all leaks are fixed, move the tester back to the turbo inlet.

7. Spray down the compressor cover (known leak), BOV return/flange (DO NOT TAP YOUR BOV LINE FOR YOUR MBC!!!), IC end tank/fins and all connections. Re- test.

8. Note that you will leak air into the crankcase through the turbo seal but do not panic, this is normal during a static pressure test as long as there are no shaft play.

The desired test result from the begining of the LICP (bypassing turbo) is around 20psi (on boost gauge) with the compressor set at 30psi, while taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0.

As a reference, my last test on my 500 mile new engine, I was able to pressurize the system to 25psi, bled down to about 16psi (my 1G bov) in about 30seconds, then took about 3 mins to 6psi and just kinda lingered there for a while. It's not easy to do but the point is it's possible. My next goal is 30psi After motor break in and Dodge modding my BOV. A boost leak test is one of most pita but important regular maintenace task, the key is patience and endurance, have fun.

 

[snowborder714]

Check out this thread as I went into more detail about testing - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269073


And oldman beat me to it...

 

[oldman]

Slow ass kids.

 

[aceofriches]

Thanks a lot... I got all the parts I need at ACE hardware--- im running a boost leak test later today... then hitting the track tonight... hopefully back to 13's if I can hold boost ....

 

[snowborder714]

Good luck trying to fix all the boost leaks in a few hours The last time I did a boost leak test it took me a good day to day and a half to make sure they were all gone.

 

[tkelly27]

some soapy water squirted on EVERYTHING will show off boost leak tests. I found two big ones that were invisible without the soapy water. One was a crack in my TB elbow, the other was around the welds on my BOV flange. Just hose down everything that sees boost and it will bubble up when you do the boost leak test. I still have a few more, but the car broke itself before I had time to find them