Block surface rust

[Gearhead4G63]

What is the best way to rid the block of surface rust? Thermo clean?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Scuff pad or 320 grit sand paper.

 

[Gearhead4G63]

Thanks man ima give it a shot.

I am a little sketched out about it don't want to sand to much and cause a sealing problem.

 

[BogusSVO]

4 inch knotted wire cup brush on a side grinder for the large flat areas.

A smaller 1 inch knotted wire cup brush on a die grinder will work for the smaller spots.

But from your pic, there is a lot of work to do on the block.

I hope you still have the main girdle for that block.

 

[My1GLaser]

Spray down with some WD-40 also. (spray it before storing to help stop this from happening too!)

 

[captain_kurt]

4 inch knotted wire cup brush on a side grinder for the large flat areas.

A smaller 1 inch knotted wire cup brush on a die grinder will work for the smaller spots.

But from your pic, there is a lot of work to do on the block.

I hope you still have the main girdle for that block.

I am currently doing this now with my build/block. I mean this is coming from the Wiseman, but I can second this method. I also you a bottle of the "purple stuff" to get other residue off the block.

 

[Carny]

Buff pad and a drill ! Worked on my b16

 

[Gearhead4G63]

Thanks guys I got a good bit off with the 320 grit. And ima use the other methods to get the rest. And yes I do still have the girdle.

Also I have new freeze plugs does anyone know where I can get new oil jets (AKA: squirters) from?

 

[BogusSVO]

Those are in the mains for the 7 bolt.

Block them off and forget about them.

 

[2slow4now]

If you do block them off you can tap the holes and install small pipe plugs. If you want to replace them then you may contact someone here that has oem parts like JNZ tuning.

My vote would be to just block them off although on my 6 bolt I installed them even with forged internals. If I built a 7 bolt I probably would block them off just because they take oil right off the bearings while the 6 bolt takes the oil supply from the main oil galley supply. Take a look here. Crankwalk Theory | Magnus Motorsports Debated many times so it comes down to personal preference.

 

[Gearhead4G63]

I'm definitely considering blocking em off considering I'm going to forged anyway. Now my question is though wouldn't my oil pressure be higher? If so what is the difference, also I was told that having the jets would allow me a longer engine life. That came out weird but you got it.

 

[2slow4now]

I'm sure your oil pressure will be higher since there will be less oil use because of no squirters. I would bet it would bump up in pressure similar but guessing less than when you do BSE. You can always port the oil relief hole in the OFH to help with that. Maybe someone has some solid numbers because I don't.

All they were designed for is to help cool the pistons. My thinking on it is a slightly cooled piston doesn't make the engine live longer if the thrust bearing fails. So a roll of the dice. What will cause problems first? Personally I like to eliminate as many "extra controls" so the likelihood of one of them failing is less likely. Kind of like to keep balance shafts, risk a belt destroying your engine, one of the bearings on the shafts go out, or eliminate them and take the risk of harmonics? Me? BSE and a fluidamper. my 6 bolt already had a balance shaft bearing spin before I built it so not much choice anyways.

 

[BogusSVO]

Due to the location of your oil jets, I doubt it will cause much of an increase in oil pressure, but it will keep more oil on the main bearing.

 

[Gearhead4G63]

Thanks for the info guys. Now what would be the best way to block them?

 

[2slow4now]

Knock the oil squirter out. Tap from oil squirter side and use a plug similar to this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-16140/overview/ You could find a similar plug even at a hardware store or find some metric one's. Look on your head. See the plugs blocking off the oil galleys? Thats pretty much what you want to accomplish.

You could use loctite to hold them in. I would also consider using a small punch and peen next to the plug to lock it in place Just like on the head. You just don't want one jiggling loose.

 

[deylag]

After removing the rust with the wire brush, one could Calyx manifold dressing to prevent further rust from occurring.

Products

 

[Gearhead4G63]

Thanks for the help guys!!👍

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Due to the location of your oil jets, I doubt it will cause much of an increase in oil pressure, but it will keep more oil on the main bearing.

Whats so wrong with keeping the skirts of forges pistons cool by keeping the squirters?

 

[BogusSVO]

Nothing with the 6 bolt style, or the ones found in the 1g/7bolt blocks.

I personally do not like the ones off the mains found in the 2g/7bolt blocks. I rather keep the oil on the mains.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Nothing with the 6 bolt style, or the ones found in the 1g/7bolt blocks.

I personally do not like the ones off the mains found in the 2g/7bolt blocks. I rather keep the oil on the mains.

Ahh. I see.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Nothing with the 6 bolt style, or the ones found in the 1g/7bolt blocks.

I personally do not like the ones off the mains found in the 2g/7bolt blocks. I rather keep the oil on the mains.

Couldn't you plug the main squirters and install 1g style squirters?

 

[BogusSVO]

Couldn't you plug the main squirters and install 1g style squirters?

Yes you could, but that will require more machine work. Good chance more than what you could get a 1g/7bolt block for.

 

[2slow4now]

I remember a shop was doing that but can't remember who it was. It was a couple years ago and they had rebuilds on ebay. I guess it never really took off probably for the exact reason bogus said.
If I remember right the same shop also did a conversion on the older style thrust bearings to the split thrust bearings.

 

[BogusSVO]

IIRC, I think JAM said they are set up to do that machine work.

To machine the mating surface for the crush washer to block, then drill/tap for the banjo bolt, then the locating pin hole is going to have to be accurate on spacing and depth.

Not something you can do with a hand drill, an upper end drill press, or better yet a vertical mill will be needed. I would guess about two hours worth of work with set up and machine work.

Time you bought the squirters and had the machine work you be $300-400 as a ball park guess.

 

[Gearhead4G63]

Ok I bought I 6 bolt Sunday going to just store the 7 bolt away for now. Would it still be beneficial to the mains to block these squirters?