BB 5031 / 50trim install plus tips and pictures

[a_scobel]

Just gotta add..the bolts that connect the oil return to the oil pan, are M6 x 20mm..in case you want to switch to stainless steel bolts. You can use the stock bolts too though, which are the same size. They use a 10mm wrench to tighten...

The bolts that connect the oil drain flange to the turbo are M8 x 20mm..since PTE doesn't include these bolts. They use a 13mm wrench...

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I think switching to SS bolts makes things a lot easier. I don't know if it's just me, but buying new grade 8 bolts puts my mind at ease when trying to uninstall something. On another note, I went to the dyno

16 psi (having boost problems, but fixed now)
293 fwhp @ 7000
270 ft/lb @ 5250

These are corrected numbers from a mustang dyno.

 

[RippinGSX]

This is the one Dejon Powerhouse sells. I'm pretty sure i remember seeing a pic of the Speed Factors kit and it looked identical but dont quote me on that.

How exactly do those lines get connected on the engine side. Do you just slide the water hoses over the end of the pipe? Getting my BB soon and just trying to figure that kit out since there isn't any written info on it out there.

 

[90blacktsiawd]

How exactly do those lines get connected on the engine side. Do you just slide the water hoses over the end of the pipe? Getting my BB soon and just trying to figure that kit out since there isn't any written info on it out there.

I didn't actually use those lines. I ended up using my stock ones as they were rather new. I think your going to have to bend them into the right shape in order to use them. They definately aren't in the same shape as the stock lines.

 

[RippinGSX]

That's what I was thinking. Hopefully they bend fairly easily and I can just slide rubber water lines over them. On my 1g, the drain line is not in the block but it's directly on the water pipe right beneath the turbo. I'm wondering if I can still use that line and just cut it to length line and then just feed from the T-housing with the existing line. The 1g is a little different.

 

[a_scobel]

That's what I was thinking. Hopefully they bend fairly easily and I can just slide rubber water lines over them. On my 1g, the drain line is not in the block but it's directly on the water pipe right beneath the turbo. I'm wondering if I can still use that line and just cut it to length line and then just feed from the T-housing with the existing line. The 1g is a little different.

The lines point straight down, where the stock ones are bent. You should be fine with just running some 3/8" flexible fuel lines to them, it's not like there's anything directly under the turbo that the lines would interfere with anyway. Maybe the oil drain tube...maybe. Plus what would you bend it with?? You need a special device to be able to bend them without kinking the hell out of them. They wouldn't sell them like that if they did have to be bent, especially since the lines don't come with any instructions.

 

[RippinGSX]

Your 2g is different than my 1g. On the 1g the feed line comes from the T-housing at an angle. I can see the bottom line or drain line working but I know I will have to cut it short to make it work. The top line is another story as I don't think it will work just leaving it straight, I think it will interfere with the comp housing but I'm not sure. I have multiple tube benders so bending lines is no problem and I can flare the ends if need be. I'll figure it out no problem, I was only trying to get some input on the 1g setup.

 

[Lurker]

blcknspo0ln: Do you still have the whining noise ?
P.S.: Sorry about bringing up an old thread, but I didn't see this info mentioned.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Nope, sorry I didn't update. I only had the whine for a couple of days and then it went away. The only whine I have is from the type s being too loose, but I"ll fix that up later

 

[TurboBlue]

Hopefully after weeks and weeks and weeks of "installing mine...The car should be running shortly. Just been working on it slowly, and trying to do everything right the first time.

To be honest though, I'm kind of dissapointed in the HP numbers your seeing. Not saying this as "you should be making more", because I really dont know. I'm only stating it as the fact that I was hoping for somewhere around 350 awhp with mine, which I'm starting now to think is a dream in a far far away land. I guess the only way to tell is to try.

Anyway, not trying to steal your thread. Thanks for all your help too, it's greatly appreciated.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

No way man, 350 awhp is totally within reach. I ran that 12.7@109 (Which guesstimates to be around 310-320 awhp) with a SHIT tune on an SAFC1 and only 20 psi (not to mention a buttload of boost leaks). If she was properly tuned that day, no doubt low 12's would have been within reach. Keep faith With my new setup I definitely am expecting upwards of 360+awhp.

 

[tbTalonES94]

350whp is easily attainable. I was running 12.0's at 114-115 mph. No weight reduction; a/c, p/s, power everything full weight. I also had some tools and things in the back. If you use the trap speed and weight ratio, i was definatly making around 350whp. This was all on pump gas, 22psi, and 16* timing. I could have gotten a lot more with race gas and more boost.

People have gotten over 400whp with the standard bearing 50-trim, there should be no reason the BB version shouldn't obtain those numbers.

 

[chavez408]

Id figure this thread has alot of information on the 50bb, so I will bring it back.
where did you all get the lines for the turbo? Im about to purchase a 50bb for my 1gen awd and i would like to know where do i get the install kit for a decent price! So i can bolt it on

 

[shadowdrag]

I doubled up on the 7cm gaskets with my stock 2g manifold to get clearance. I have SBR's new style cast manifold and there is more than enough room with the single gasket. I didn't have any exhaust leaks with both gaskets on my 2g manifold, so I didn't see it as a big issue, but then again I knew I was getting the SBR one soon.

Sorry to bring it back from the dead.

I also have this same issue. I had to uninstall and install my turbo 3 times because of it. I had exhaust leak super bad with a new stock gasket, it was vibrating as ex. gas leaked. I switched mani to my stock and still leak, put back evo3 mani with 7cm and still leak. Bought new 7cm gasket from extremepsi and still til this day it still leaks abit at full boost, moreover, I stripped all of the hole because I thought it was not torque down tight enough. To me, I personally think the maker of the turbine housing did not properly heat treat the threaded hole after it been threaded. I can't remember how many time I took off my t-25 without stripping the hole.

Looking into getting a new housing, mine does not come with water cool center cartridge.

Anyway, how loud is all your BB turbos. Mine is super quite, makes me wonder sometimes.


Later

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Id figure this thread has alot of information on the 50bb, so I will bring it back.
where did you all get the lines for the turbo? Im about to purchase a 50bb for my 1gen awd and i would like to know where do i get the install kit for a decent price! So i can bolt it on

You can use your stock water lines for the bb turbo, but MAKE SURE you get new copper crush washers, or you can order the PTE kit from vendors (straight SS water lines). The "kit" is merely just the water lines, a -4an SS oil feed line w. reducer (you want to feed your BB from the head) and a PTE specific drain line. Everything else should be just like a standard downfiring turbo.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Sorry to bring it back from the dead.

I also have this same issue. I had to uninstall and install my turbo 3 times because of it. I had exhaust leak super bad with a new stock gasket, it was vibrating as ex. gas leaked. I switched mani to my stock and still leak, put back evo3 mani with 7cm and still leak. Bought new 7cm gasket from extremepsi and still til this day it still leaks abit at full boost, moreover, I stripped all of the hole because I thought it was not torque down tight enough. To me, I personally think the maker of the turbine housing did not properly heat treat the threaded hole after it been threaded. I can't remember how many time I took off my t-25 without stripping the hole.

Looking into getting a new housing, mine does not come with water cool center cartridge.

Anyway, how loud is all your BB turbos. Mine is super quite, makes me wonder sometimes.


Later

In my experience it's not the turbine housing that is causing the bolt to strip. Use nickel or copper based antiseize all over the stud and it should not have a problem stripping. Your problem lies in the actual ss gasket. Over heat cycles, I've noticed that the actual gasket will warp. If it warps enough, the gasket ridges will makes its way flush with one of your turbo studs, and thus, putting pressure on your threads and strip them out when you remove the stud. Solution? Just open up the holes another mm or two before installing.

 

[shadowdrag]

In my experience it's not the turbine housing that is causing the bolt to strip. Use nickel or copper based antiseize all over the stud and it should not have a problem stripping. Your problem lies in the actual ss gasket. Over heat cycles, I've noticed that the actual gasket will warp. If it warps enough, the gasket ridges will makes its way flush with one of your turbo studs, and thus, putting pressure on your threads and strip them out when you remove the stud. Solution? Just open up the holes another mm or two before installing.

I was meaning to say that it was right after I install the turbo. Start the engine and blog,blog,blog coming out of between the gasket, turbo and mani. This lead me to redue it 3 times within that day , and because of it, the turbine housing 4 threaded holes strip out. Grey anti-seize was also used, I was thinking of returning the turbo but its to much of a hassel and waiting time and redue process of the turbo. I was thinking of finding someone else who make a similar turbine housing and just buy it to replace it.

Right now, I have 4 10mm X 100 thru bolt with four additional lock nuts to the bottom of the turbine to hold it from leaking. I was thinking of retapping the holes one size up, but then again, the housing is harden to some degree that me tapping new threads will break the dyes.


anyway, is your turbo loud or quite?

 

[dedlewamp]

I'm curious to see what water lines everyone is using for this turbo. Some are using the stock ones, while others are using the ones from PTE that are much larger in diameter, but come as a straight section that is almost impossible to bend.

Anyone who used the larger waterlines, do you have any pictures of how they are routed?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

My turbo is very quite. I had a whine for a little bit after startup initially, but it doesn't make any noise, until it spools

As for the water lines, I would imagine both are pointing down or angled, just as long as you can get some hose on 'em.

shadow- are you sure your CHRA is not water cooled? EVERY BB turbo I've ever came across was/is water cooled.

 

[shadowdrag]

My turbo is very quite. I had a whine for a little bit after startup initially, but it doesn't make any noise, until it spools

As for the water lines, I would imagine both are pointing down or angled, just as long as you can get some hose on 'em.

shadow- are you sure your CHRA is not water cooled? EVERY BB turbo I've ever came across was/is water cooled.

I'm pretty sure its not water cool center cartridge, which makes it easier for me to take the turbo in and out of the car. But suck to hear people telling me that it also has a shorter life span than that of water cool turbos. Anyways, when I hit full boost, the turbo is not as loud as my brothers 16g, maybe it will get louder as it hits 25psi. Fogot to mention that mine is the BB 57 trim 3134E bought from Dejon's. Other then the turbin housing, its still a nice turbo and spools harder at higher RPM's, just abit quiter at 19psi.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I'm pretty sure its not water cool center cartridge, which makes it easier for me to take the turbo in and out of the car. But suck to hear people telling me that it also has a shorter life span than that of water cool turbos. Anyways, when I hit full boost, the turbo is not as loud as my brothers 16g, maybe it will get louder as it hits 25psi. Fogot to mention that mine is the BB 57 trim 3134E bought from Dejon's. Other then the turbin housing, its still a nice turbo and spools harder at higher RPM's, just abit quiter at 19psi.

Are you talking about ball bearing whine or ball bearing "spool" sound? If it's the spooling sound you're looking for, I've found that it's largely dependant on the type of intake pipe you use.

 

[shadowdrag]

Are you talking about ball bearing whine or ball bearing "spool" sound? If it's the spooling sound you're looking for, I've found that it's largely dependant on the type of intake pipe you use.

I think thats what I'm looking for, the nice loud whistle spool when turbo hit full boost. I'll look into upgrading my intake pipe to a 3" all the way to fit the 3" inlet.