steel_3d
15+ Year Contributor
- 494
- 14
- Jul 3, 2003
-
LA,
California
INSTALL:
Well it took me two weekends but I finally got her running. This was my first turbo swap, going from the 14b on a 1g to oil cooled Garrett. Second time around I'd probably do it in less than half the time, but this time nothing went right. I used the full bullseye kit with the oil feed and drain lines, all the gaskets, and 90deg elbow, but I still ended up having to run to the store like 4 times, which really takes a chunk out of your weekend. I'll just throw out some random info here, hoping it will save somebody some time.
You definitely need a plug for the water pipe. I used a 3/8" npt plug. The thread is not quite right, but I got it in far enough to seal with teflon tape. I think the real thread is a 16x1.5mm, but I couldn't find that size in any store. It looks like that plug you take out of the oil filter housing might also work as well as the 3/8", though the thread doesn't quite match up with the water line fitting I took out.
The soft water hose I plugged with the oil feed banjo bolt I took out of the head with some rtv and the stock clamp. (Thanks for the tip, whoever it was)
The oil feed hole in the head I plugged with a 10x1.25mm metric bolt that I shortened.
The oil feed should be taken from the top-front hole (looking from the front of the car) on the oil filter housing. That's the one that supplies filtered oil, according to Dave. You need an 8mm allen key for it, and I'd recommend a socket version. I had a bi*** of a time trying to take that out with an allen key and vice grips for extension. A pipe as an extension for the allen key might also work well.
(Note: a breaker bar is really useful for this job. I used a big wrench on the end of a ratchet for extension, but I ####ed up the ratchet pretty good. I just moved down from Canada, that's why my tool set is still poorish and in the developing stages
)
You might need a 2"-1.75" reducer (exhaust pipe section in the parts store) to hook up to the stock lower ic hose. That was already pretty tight. You need to hack the lower ic hose to shorten it, whatever way it fits best.
I already had a 3" intake pipe, so I had no problems there.
I hit a snag here. My car's been hit from the front and it seems like the rad got pushed in more than I thought, cause I couldn't fit this t04b with my stock fan. I had to hack off two of the supporting beams, and even this way the outlet elbow is intruding into the fan shroud. This is made worse by the fact that I have a 2" - 2.5" outlet elbow, which I got in anticipation of the supra smic I have which could use a 2.5" licp. I have half an inch clearance at most from the fan blades. This sucks really bad, I wonder if a slim fan would be slim enough to provide enough clearance. The AC fan is fine where it is. It seems that my turbo's clocked a bit wrong. If the outlet was facing a little more straight down, I would feel much safer.
Note: you definitely have to have the fans out for this job, and having the rad out is necessary if you need to drill any studs out like I did. And I had a pretty compact sized drill too. There's not much water that comes out anyway by taking the rad out, since it mostly comes out when you take off the turbo water lines, unless you have the plug handy and can plug it fast. You need to have antifreeze on hand at the end to refill. All the oil has to be drained too, obviously, to install the oil drain line and the feed line. Just mentioning these things so you know what to expect.
I took the manifold off cause I had to replace my cracked 1g, but I think that's necessary anyway otherwise I don't know how you could get the turbo over the stock lower water pipe. With the manifold came broken studs (I'm immensely glad that I had a brand new set on hand). I only had one broken, but that was enough of a bi*** as it is. I tried drilling into it and using an extractor, but of course the drill walked and none of the auto parts stores had a proper extractor set. I wouldnt go with one of those straight 4-sided extractors again, I wish I had found a set of helical ones. The straight one stripped right away. I would advise against going up too fast in drill bit sizes. I think if I had the patience to drill a thin hole first, and go up in steps, I would have gotten a proper hole down the center. And you obviously need a center punch to center the bit, otherwise you have no hope. I actually had the spring type punch that centers itself in the hole, it worked really nice.
Since I had a 2g stud kit, I decided to drill out the hole with the broken stud for the 10mm stud, instead of helicoiling to 8mm (that shit's 25 bucks a set at pep boys). So I got a tap and drill kit with 8.6mm drill and 10x1.25 tap. Now I have 10mm studs in the top right and top left corners of my mani. Those seem to take the most weight anyway, so I'm happy with the setup. This fits fine with the 2g mani, just make sure you drill straight. My hole with the broken stud ended up crooked, so I had to enlarge the hole on the mani to clear the crooked stud, it was a huge pain.
Another tip about drilling that I learned the hard way: Don't get overzealous or angry and run the drill fast. It should be slow, like 200rpm-ish, with decent pressure. High rpm just burns the bit and it won't cut for shit. I sharpened mine with a dremel, really ghetto, but it got me through. Just make sure you grind at such an angle that the cutting edge of the bit is always higher than the back. Do yourself a favor and get really tough drill bits made for steel. Anything I found at pep boys and napa were shit.
While we're on the subject of tools, the drill and dremel were indispensible for me, I used them a lot, and the sawzall came in handy too. I had a crappy fake dremel kit, it's really weak and the bits are shit, I dunno how many I had come apart on me. Probably cause the chuck is even lobsided You get what you pay for. I might try a real dremel soon. Wish I had a compressor for jobs like this.
Another opinion: I don't think a 2g manifold and 2g o2 housing are much use with the bullseye housing. You might be able to port them out if you're really agressive, but definitely not a worthwhile step in unported form. The bullseye inlet is almost 2.5" if I remember correctly, and the outlet is a little over 2.5". Huge difference from stock. My manifold was cracked to hell so I didn't have much choice, except going bigger. A slowboy manifold might be in my future, and a 2.5" tubular o2 just cause it's cheaper than an evo3.
Just so you know, the o2 sensor location is diferent on the 1g and 2g housings, but the wire does reach, in a weird roundabout way. The sensor itself was a real bi*** to get out of the old housing, but I finally got it out by hammering on the wrench.
Some other useful things:
-high temperature anti-seize (provided by bullseye with the kit),
-high temperature thread locker for studs (I don't think anything that withstands high enough temperatures exists, but it might still kinda work better than nothing)
-hose clamps in a few different sizes ( 2.5" and 3.5" )
-rtv
-goggles for the dremel
IMPRESSIONS:
I can't comment on performance yet cause I've been taking it really easy for the half hour I drove it last nite. Didn't wanna blow anything up, off, or blow the gaskets before I get a chance to retorque them. Didn't get any knock taking it to about 10psi on the highway, with my stock 450's and stock fuel pressure. It was pulling fine for the throttle angles I was at.
It's interesting that my open 1g bov keeps blowing out for several seconds after I rev the engine by hand, where the 14b would stop pretty quick. The bigger wheels seem to have some inertia, so lag between shifts might not be too bad.
Well that's it for now, my 680's will be in this week, so hopefully I'll be able to comment on performace after the weekend.
I'll try to get some pics up too.
QUESTIONS:
1. I get a weird rumble/grinding sound when I let off the throttle. I didn't have time to diagnose it, dunno if it's turbo related, or even related to this install, it might've been there before. It might be the elbow hitting the fan under deceleration, but I have urethane motor mounts, and the engine doesn't rock at all if I rev it by hand. It was too dark last night to tell if there's a sign of contact. Anybody heard anything like this? All I wanna know is if it's normal for this turbo to make a noise under decel. My bov's definitely blowing off fine.
2. Do you guys know if I can clock the turbo while it's mounted? It seems I can reach those bolts that clamp to the exhaust housing. Can I just clock it once those are loose?
3. How slim are slim fans? Will a slim fan have a lower total profile than just the fan blade itself on the stocker? Right now my fan blades are a bit too close to the outlet elbow for comfort.
I welcome any other tips and corrections.
Well it took me two weekends but I finally got her running. This was my first turbo swap, going from the 14b on a 1g to oil cooled Garrett. Second time around I'd probably do it in less than half the time, but this time nothing went right. I used the full bullseye kit with the oil feed and drain lines, all the gaskets, and 90deg elbow, but I still ended up having to run to the store like 4 times, which really takes a chunk out of your weekend. I'll just throw out some random info here, hoping it will save somebody some time.
You definitely need a plug for the water pipe. I used a 3/8" npt plug. The thread is not quite right, but I got it in far enough to seal with teflon tape. I think the real thread is a 16x1.5mm, but I couldn't find that size in any store. It looks like that plug you take out of the oil filter housing might also work as well as the 3/8", though the thread doesn't quite match up with the water line fitting I took out.
The soft water hose I plugged with the oil feed banjo bolt I took out of the head with some rtv and the stock clamp. (Thanks for the tip, whoever it was)
The oil feed hole in the head I plugged with a 10x1.25mm metric bolt that I shortened.
The oil feed should be taken from the top-front hole (looking from the front of the car) on the oil filter housing. That's the one that supplies filtered oil, according to Dave. You need an 8mm allen key for it, and I'd recommend a socket version. I had a bi*** of a time trying to take that out with an allen key and vice grips for extension. A pipe as an extension for the allen key might also work well.
(Note: a breaker bar is really useful for this job. I used a big wrench on the end of a ratchet for extension, but I ####ed up the ratchet pretty good. I just moved down from Canada, that's why my tool set is still poorish and in the developing stages
)You might need a 2"-1.75" reducer (exhaust pipe section in the parts store) to hook up to the stock lower ic hose. That was already pretty tight. You need to hack the lower ic hose to shorten it, whatever way it fits best.
I already had a 3" intake pipe, so I had no problems there.
I hit a snag here. My car's been hit from the front and it seems like the rad got pushed in more than I thought, cause I couldn't fit this t04b with my stock fan. I had to hack off two of the supporting beams, and even this way the outlet elbow is intruding into the fan shroud. This is made worse by the fact that I have a 2" - 2.5" outlet elbow, which I got in anticipation of the supra smic I have which could use a 2.5" licp. I have half an inch clearance at most from the fan blades. This sucks really bad, I wonder if a slim fan would be slim enough to provide enough clearance. The AC fan is fine where it is. It seems that my turbo's clocked a bit wrong. If the outlet was facing a little more straight down, I would feel much safer.
Note: you definitely have to have the fans out for this job, and having the rad out is necessary if you need to drill any studs out like I did. And I had a pretty compact sized drill too. There's not much water that comes out anyway by taking the rad out, since it mostly comes out when you take off the turbo water lines, unless you have the plug handy and can plug it fast. You need to have antifreeze on hand at the end to refill. All the oil has to be drained too, obviously, to install the oil drain line and the feed line. Just mentioning these things so you know what to expect.
I took the manifold off cause I had to replace my cracked 1g, but I think that's necessary anyway otherwise I don't know how you could get the turbo over the stock lower water pipe. With the manifold came broken studs (I'm immensely glad that I had a brand new set on hand). I only had one broken, but that was enough of a bi*** as it is. I tried drilling into it and using an extractor, but of course the drill walked and none of the auto parts stores had a proper extractor set. I wouldnt go with one of those straight 4-sided extractors again, I wish I had found a set of helical ones. The straight one stripped right away. I would advise against going up too fast in drill bit sizes. I think if I had the patience to drill a thin hole first, and go up in steps, I would have gotten a proper hole down the center. And you obviously need a center punch to center the bit, otherwise you have no hope. I actually had the spring type punch that centers itself in the hole, it worked really nice.
Since I had a 2g stud kit, I decided to drill out the hole with the broken stud for the 10mm stud, instead of helicoiling to 8mm (that shit's 25 bucks a set at pep boys). So I got a tap and drill kit with 8.6mm drill and 10x1.25 tap. Now I have 10mm studs in the top right and top left corners of my mani. Those seem to take the most weight anyway, so I'm happy with the setup. This fits fine with the 2g mani, just make sure you drill straight. My hole with the broken stud ended up crooked, so I had to enlarge the hole on the mani to clear the crooked stud, it was a huge pain.
Another tip about drilling that I learned the hard way: Don't get overzealous or angry and run the drill fast. It should be slow, like 200rpm-ish, with decent pressure. High rpm just burns the bit and it won't cut for shit. I sharpened mine with a dremel, really ghetto, but it got me through. Just make sure you grind at such an angle that the cutting edge of the bit is always higher than the back. Do yourself a favor and get really tough drill bits made for steel. Anything I found at pep boys and napa were shit.
While we're on the subject of tools, the drill and dremel were indispensible for me, I used them a lot, and the sawzall came in handy too. I had a crappy fake dremel kit, it's really weak and the bits are shit, I dunno how many I had come apart on me. Probably cause the chuck is even lobsided
You get what you pay for. I might try a real dremel soon. Wish I had a compressor for jobs like this.Another opinion: I don't think a 2g manifold and 2g o2 housing are much use with the bullseye housing. You might be able to port them out if you're really agressive, but definitely not a worthwhile step in unported form. The bullseye inlet is almost 2.5" if I remember correctly, and the outlet is a little over 2.5". Huge difference from stock. My manifold was cracked to hell so I didn't have much choice, except going bigger. A slowboy manifold might be in my future, and a 2.5" tubular o2 just cause it's cheaper than an evo3.
Just so you know, the o2 sensor location is diferent on the 1g and 2g housings, but the wire does reach, in a weird roundabout way. The sensor itself was a real bi*** to get out of the old housing, but I finally got it out by hammering on the wrench.
Some other useful things:
-high temperature anti-seize (provided by bullseye with the kit),
-high temperature thread locker for studs (I don't think anything that withstands high enough temperatures exists, but it might still kinda work better than nothing)
-hose clamps in a few different sizes ( 2.5" and 3.5" )
-rtv
-goggles for the dremel
IMPRESSIONS:
I can't comment on performance yet cause I've been taking it really easy for the half hour I drove it last nite. Didn't wanna blow anything up, off, or blow the gaskets before I get a chance to retorque them. Didn't get any knock taking it to about 10psi on the highway, with my stock 450's and stock fuel pressure. It was pulling fine for the throttle angles I was at.
It's interesting that my open 1g bov keeps blowing out for several seconds after I rev the engine by hand, where the 14b would stop pretty quick. The bigger wheels seem to have some inertia, so lag between shifts might not be too bad.
Well that's it for now, my 680's will be in this week, so hopefully I'll be able to comment on performace after the weekend.
I'll try to get some pics up too.
QUESTIONS:
1. I get a weird rumble/grinding sound when I let off the throttle. I didn't have time to diagnose it, dunno if it's turbo related, or even related to this install, it might've been there before. It might be the elbow hitting the fan under deceleration, but I have urethane motor mounts, and the engine doesn't rock at all if I rev it by hand. It was too dark last night to tell if there's a sign of contact. Anybody heard anything like this? All I wanna know is if it's normal for this turbo to make a noise under decel. My bov's definitely blowing off fine.
2. Do you guys know if I can clock the turbo while it's mounted? It seems I can reach those bolts that clamp to the exhaust housing. Can I just clock it once those are loose?
3. How slim are slim fans? Will a slim fan have a lower total profile than just the fan blade itself on the stocker? Right now my fan blades are a bit too close to the outlet elbow for comfort.
I welcome any other tips and corrections.
