2G Bank 1 O2 Heater fault after installing AFR gauge

[Dirtbike29]

I installed an aem air fuel gauge in bank one and wired it to pin 76 in the ecu now I have this code for front o2 what do you do to remove this code when installing the afr gauge

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[pauleyman]

The fix is a new o2 sensor.

 

[Dirtbike29]

The fix is a new o2 sensor.

Nothing is wrong with it it’s plugged into the afr and wired to ecu pin 76 what do I do with the car plug for the front o2 to delete that code plug in the old sensor and loop the wires back into itself to trick the ecu like every thing else I’m guessing

 

[pauleyman]

Elaborate. You're running a wideband to ecu? Where is it mounted? If you're going to simulate o2 then do so and put it in stock location. If not you still need a narrowband o2 in the stock location in addition to the wideband.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I just read your most recent post about 5 times. Then re read it another 5.

I’m throughly confused on what your trying to do or have done or asking.

-Daniel

 

[Dirtbike29]

I just read your most recent post about 5 times. Then re read it another 5.

I’m throughly confused on what your trying to do or have done or asking.

-Daniel

Sorry have updated the post

Elaborate. You're running a wideband to ecu? Where is it mounted? If you're going to simulate o2 then do so and put it in stock location. If not you still need a narrowband o2 in the stock location in addition to the wideband.

IT’s mounted in stock location for bank 1 after the turbo. I took out the one from the car harness and wired my gauge into pin 76 front o2

I’m not sure if it’s wideband or not I don’t understand that enough but I was just wanting to run it closed loop as I don’t want to run that much horsepower I am trying to simulate as you said I do believe it’s wide band as it my gauge reads from high

 

[d_oskim]

Are you running ecmlink?

 

[Dirtbike29]

Are you running ecmlink?

No

 

[d_oskim]

I’m not sure if I’m understanding this correctly...

From the sounds of it, all you did was pin in your 5v sensor wire from your wideband to the ecu with no way of simulating narrowband from it or changing the switch point. If that’s correct, it’s not going to work properly. You will need a way to tell the ECU what the new stoich switch point is.

If my understanding of what you did and what you’re trying to accomplish are correct, you will want to wire in the factory O2 until you get some sort of tuning software.

 

[curt-s]

Which wire on the wideband did you attach to the ecu input? that's important information for us to diagnose


If you wired the wideband 5V out to the ecu o2 pin that's not going to work. The narrowband is a 0-1V circuit.
If your wideband has a specific narrowband output you need to wire that.

If it doesn't, you aren't able to do this unless you can program the gauge to simulate narrowband on that output.

 

[steve]

These are good points but how do they address a O2 heater fault? I could see if this was a O2 sensor fault (P0171, P0172, P0173, etc.) but it's not so making sure the WB is correctly simulating a narrowband doesn't to me seem to me the root cause here. Still good to get right.

Typically you either leave the old narrowband sensor attached to the heater circuit and insulate it so it doesn't melt anything or destroy itself by getting wet or do the same with a resistor. The other option without getting an ECU you can disable the fault code with is to mount the wideband sensor elsewhere leaving the OEM sensor in the O2 housing.

 

[curt-s]

Jeeez. Wake up, @curt-s.

Yeah a heater circuit fault is unrelated to the gauge. If you're not plugging an o2 sensor into either front or rear o2 harness, it's going to throw the code due to the infinite resistance being seen on pin 60 for front and pin 54 for rear (I think rear is still a code). On a stock ecu, you have to fool the ECU with an appropriate high wattage resistor or, more simply as @steve says, keep the narrowbands attached, wrap them with tin foil to insulate and protect, and zip tie them somewhere out of the way.

 

[Dirtbike29]

Jeeez. Wake up, @curt-s.

Yeah a heater circuit fault is unrelated to the gauge. If you're not plugging an o2 sensor into either front or rear o2 harness, it's going to throw the code due to the infinite resistance being seen on pin 60 for front and pin 54 for rear (I think rear is still a code). On a stock ecu, you have to fool the ECU with an appropriate high wattage resistor or, more simply as @steve says, keep the narrowbands attached, wrap them with tin foil to insulate and protect, and zip tie them somewhere out of the way.

Thanks just wanted to make sure I have done it right I will be getting tuning software soon might have to pull the transmission now because I think it’s leaking so not worried about it O2 anymore it’s reading correctly it was wired to the front I think it is a narrow band O2 but I didn’t buy it

I only screwed it in unplugged the factory the wire to the ECU was previously cut before I bought the car it reads correctly to my knowledge of how they work I have a Subaru with Cobb installed and dyno tuned so I know how engine numbers should look

 

[Dirtbike29]

Which wire on the wideband did you attach to the ecu input? that's important information for us to diagnose


If you wired the wideband 5V out to the ecu o2 pin that's not going to work. The narrowband is a 0-1V circuit.
If your wideband has a specific narrowband output you need to wire that.

If it doesn't, you aren't able to do this unless you can program the gauge to simulate narrowband on that output.

Jeeez. Wake up, @curt-s.

Yeah a heater circuit fault is unrelated to the gauge. If you're not plugging an o2 sensor into either front or rear o2 harness, it's going to throw the code due to the infinite resistance being seen on pin 60 for front and pin 54 for rear (I think rear is still a code). On a stock ecu, you have to fool the ECU with an appropriate high wattage resistor or, more simply as @steve says, keep the narrowbands attached, wrap them with tin foil to insulate and protect, and zip tie them somewhere out of the way.

So if I put the wideband in my front O2 pin 76 not pin 75 for the rear will it damage the ECU or do I just need a tune for the wideband being in the front location?

Here’s a YouTube video I made yesterday for the car

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[steve]

Sorry, not watching a 20 min video to find out what you running for an ECU. That's key to answering your question. Secondary is what brand of wideband?

 

[curt-s]

So if I put the wideband in my front O2 pin 76 not pin 75 for the rear will it damage the ECU or do I just need a tune for the wideband being in the front location?

Here’s a YouTube video I made yesterday for the car

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Your ecu needs to be fed a 0-1 volt narrowband signal on either o2 sensor pins, not the 5v that most have for data logging wideband output.
If your wb can't do narrowband 0-1v you should not attach to the ecu, if you're running the factory metal boxed ecu without ecmlink.

If you have the regular plain ecu, connect the gauges 0-1v narrowband sim wire to the front o2 pin. You'll still need the regular o2 sensor heater wire plumbed for the heater circuit to not generate a code. Do not run both o2 sensors off the same o2 signal pin, only the wideband.

Sorry, not watching a 20 min video to find out what you running for an ECU. That's key to answering your question. Secondary is what brand of wideband?

+1

 

[Dirtbike29]

Sorry, not watching a 20 min video to find out what you running for an ECU. That's key to answering your question. Secondary is what brand of wideband?

Bosh 4.9 black box ecu
Aem gauge

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[steve]

Bosch 4.2 is the type of sensor. They need a controller like the AEM UEGO, Innovate LC-2, etc.

 

[Dirtbike29]

Bosh 4.2 I believe black box ecu

Bosch 4.2 is the type of sensor. They need a controller like the AEM UEGO, Innovate LC-2, etc.

Bosh 4.9 It says 0-5v on the page so I’m guessing I have to change the settings on the gauge

 

[Dirtbike29]

Bosh 4.9 It says 0-5v on the page so I’m guessing I have to change the settings on the gauge

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[curt-s]

The model number of the gauge, that's what we need. "4.9" is the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor.

It's my guess you have a AEM 30-0300 but you need to confirm.
Help us help you, by providing the pertinent information. Given your screen grabs, it feels like you went out of your way to not provide the MODEL of the gauge package you have. You could have even just copied and pasted the URL from stmtuned and that would tell us more.

There's no such thing as a "Bosh 4.9 black box ecu" for a DSM ECU. You're probably talking about the Bosch 4.9 sensor but if not, we have no idea what you're on about.
The ECU is inside the center console, under the radio, in general terms.

 

[Dirtbike29]

The model number of the gauge, that's what we need. "4.9" is the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor.

It's my guess you have a AEM 30-0300 but you need to confirm.
Help us help you, by providing the pertinent information. Given your screen grabs, it feels like you went out of your way to not provide the MODEL of the gauge package you have. You could have even just copied and pasted the URL from stmtuned and that would tell us more.

There's no such thing as a "Bosh 4.9 black box ecu" for a DSM ECU. You're probably talking about the Bosch 4.9 sensor but if not, we have no idea what you're on about.
The ECU is inside the center console, under the radio, in general terms.

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it’s not the aem 30-0300
It’s the wideband 4.9 bosh oxygen sensor
I was told there’s 2 types of ecu a non tune able and tuneable black box is what I’ve been told by the tuner and is what I have

I have linked the gauge I have here it’s not on stmtuned that’s why I was confused sorry about that it’s disconnected on their website or not available for me

AEM 30-4110 AEM Classic Digital Wideband AFR Gauge Kit

Our World-famous Wideband O2 air/fuel ratio UEGO gauge features a digital LED display and sweeping LED 'needle' that changes colors as AFR changes from rich to lean. A 52mm (2-1/16") gauge housing ensures that it will fit in most gauge pods and can be remotely mounted virtually anywhere. All AEM...

www.aemelectronics.com

 

[Dirtbike29]

I also have a vacuum line under the battery tray that used to be hooked up to the charcoal canister should I block it off as I did or Leave it open

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[steve]

Here's what a USDM 1997 AWD ECU looks like:

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The the 98 & 99 Black Box ECU's:

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If you have one of these ask your tuner to disable the O2 sensor heater CEL. Set up your WB to simulate a narrowband O2 and leave it connected to the front O2 sensor input.

That's the extent of what you can do with that ECU without crawling down the rabbithole and it looks like you have plenty of other issues to take care of.

 

[Dirtbike29]

Here's what a USDM 1997 AWD ECU looks like:

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The the 98 & 99 Black Box ECU's:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If you have one of these ask your tuner to disable the O2 sensor heater CEL. Set up your WB to simulate a narrowband O2 and leave it connected to the front O2 sensor input.

That's the extent of what you can do with that ECU without crawling down the rabbithole and it looks like you have plenty of other issues to take care of.

I have 98-99 black box

Thanks very much yes I do have a few more things to tie up but everything is cleaned up and I’ve installed all the new parts none of the car was functional from both doors to the trunk oil pressure gauges not set up wired but not plugged in