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Axle/driveshaft Nut [Merged 7-8] nuts remove removal

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95talontsi

20+ Year Contributor
274
0
Jun 29, 2002
Princeton,
Taking out the front axles driveshaft or whatever there called, the 32 mm nut on the brake hub, I need to break it loose, I looked at the book it's torqued at like 144-188 ft holy #@%#@%#@%#@%, plus its rusty and the whole axle moves how the hell do you break it loose?? Please help got to get this tranny out
 
WHUTEVR - AND don't forget that all that beating & FRAMMING & torch heat WILL KILL Bearings & Seals - If it doesn't come off with reasonable force just cut the damn Nut & it'll spin off~!
 
My trick is to PB blaster it a couple times with about 5 minutes to sit in between aplications, then use a impact to tighten the nut and then switch to loosening it and it will come off.

the real problem always seemed to be, getting the axle out of the hub. One was torched from behind so the axle spindle could be removed with the hub bearing assembly, one was removed with a air hammer and the other two, after 2 days of PB every 15 minutes per side and 6 months to sit, finally came out with a 4lb sledge.
 
this is the socket set I use. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5494 Its 3/4 inch drive so you will never be able to break it. Its one of the bes tools Ive bought. You will need to put the wheel back on while someone holds the brake. Then use a cheater bar on the ratchet while standing on it. I have taken many axel nuts off with this tool kit. Even rusted ones on big diesel trucks. The kit looks small in the picture but the kit is huge. It almost takes 2 people to carry it, LOL. A real steal at only $49
 
Also once you get the nut off, if the axle is stuck in the hub dont hit the threads with a hammer. You will mushroom the end of the axle and then its really not coming out. Thread the big nut back on flush with the end of the threads then whack away with a sledge hammer.
 
If the car is on the ground it's easier, place your bar so you can kick down on it.. If it' in the air, you'll need someone to hold the brakes as you line up your kick.

.. Axle nut size... 32 or 34mm rings a bell....:confused:
 
Never been that hard for me. I do it with the wheels off and the car on jackstands. I get someone to hold the brakes. Then I just take a 1/2 ratchet with a jack handle on the end and put a lil a$$ into it, and they came off rather easily.
 
On the turbo cars it is 32mm, a 1-1/4" socket may also work (it's just under .01" bigger than 32mm) but I haven't actually tried it.
 
There is a decent chance if it's been on a while and if it's gotten road salt on it you will need air tools. If you don't have access to them continue with the breaker bar and PB blaster method.
 
you have to have a pretty good impact to get them off with it. Mine is junk and wouldn't touch it. I used a smaller breaker bar (about 2 feet) and couldn't get it so I used 4 foot section of boxed in steel and finally got it. They are tight like prom night on there!
 
The best tool I have to remove axle nuts is a 2 ft. breaker bar - I couldn't even find myself a cheater bar at home. So what I did was remove the center caps from my wheels, put the car on the ground, and get the breaker bar set up to remove the nuts. But instead of me jumping up and down on the breaker bar (which I did try), I used my jack to jack up the very end of the breaker bar. This requires the least physical effort short of air tools and worked magnificently.
 
spray some PB blaster on it dont be stingy with it either (let it soak for about 15 mins or so) then with the wheel still on and the car on the ground use a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a pole on the end as a torque multiplier, if you have a 3 ton jack or bigger the upper half of the handle should come off and you can use that (thats what i used) you only need to put the pole on the breaker bar about 7inchs down the breaker bar (you want it as long as possible for more torque) and then just set it to where your pushing down on it. make sure you dont forget to remover the cotter pin first. if your taking the axle off before you take the nut completely off grab a dead blow hammer or a BFH (big f*cking hammer) and with the nut flush at the end of the threads give it a whack (if you use a bfh make sure you hit it flat and not on an angle). when you re-torque i believe its 145 ft/lbs-185 ft/lbs someone correct me if thats wrong ### i cant find my manual.
 
oh i forgot to mention this stuff called Freeze Off works great also, hold it close to the nut and spray it for about 15-20 seconds full spray and then let it soak for awhile before you try to break it loose. it costs about the same as pb blaster.
 
if you have an impact that would be the best way to do it, possinly use the pb blaster. if you have no power tools, then is guess you use 1/2 inch drive ratchet and a 3 foot pipe over the handle. the first time i took mine off i literally had to jump up and down on the pipe. then i got smart and bought an air compressor since i'm always working on the car now.
 
but if you still have intact center caps that are a pain to get out, you won't have the room or access to use the 30mm socket to break the axle nut loose. It's way easier to break the axle nut loose with an installed wheel and the weight of the car on it's wheels. Just use your trusty dusty spare tire! Take off whatever wheels you have on the car if they have center caps and put on the spare. The spare has a nice big wide opening!:talon:
 
There is a lot of good info in this thread.

I've tried a MAP torch (don't have an oxy) and tons of PB Blaster. Piece of old intercooler pipe (4ft) and a 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar. I keep breaking the 1/2" drive cube off these damn things, as well as 4 of the normal 1/2" ratchets. I'm tempted to go to Harbor Freight and get that 3/4" setup...

This is on my cousin's AWD. On my AWD, I used the same method with no heat and they came off easily... and they looked 10 times worse on mine as well as the owner before me only using it as a winter car in IL!

All this to replace axle seals... :(
 
^^^ An oxy-acetylene torch works like a charm when 1/2" breaker bars are breaking. Make a few phone calls and you'll eventually find someone that has one that you can borrow. But also keep in mind that even after you get the nut off, the shaft very well could be seized in the hub. These things can be a real PITA sometimes.
 
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I used pb blaster and a 2ft breaker bar. Used the cars wieght to break them loose.
 
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