Axle/driveshaft Nut [Merged 7-8] nuts remove removal

[95talontsi]

Taking out the front axles driveshaft or whatever there called, the 32 mm nut on the brake hub, I need to break it loose, I looked at the book it's torqued at like 144-188 ft holy #@%#@%#@%#@%, plus its rusty and the whole axle moves how the hell do you break it loose?? Please help got to get this tranny out

 

[akdsmer]

You could always cut/split the nut as well.

make sure cotter pin is off obviously

Good thought. If the ends are not there, but the pin is still flush with the nut, it will take a lot of leverage to make that move!

 

[99gst_racer]

Well, just a heads up, I did get that axle nut off.

I took another members advice and we heated it up with an acetylene torch and after that, it came off with without any resistance.

We've since then got the motor/tranny pulled and I'm going to start re-ringing it tomorrow. Thanks for the help and advice guys.

Thanks -Paul-

PS - Here's a cool ass pic I took with my cell phone while we heated it up.

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[blackGSX2g]

Your lucky Paul. I spent half a day trying to get mine off with everything I can think of. It was the only bolt I have never been able to break free; or just break period. The only way I could get mine out was to melt the nut/axle end off and try pressing it out of the spindle. Even then, myself or a local machine shop still couldn't get it pressed out of the spindle. I ended up just replacing everything

 

[tc1155]

i had to heat mine up enough that my wheel bearing in junk and not worth puttin back in the car to get a growling noise a week later

 

[eclipse95racer]

i have a 1995 Eclipse GS. i am trying to take the axels out because i am droping a new engine in. but first i need to take the axels out before i can remove the engine. my problem is that the axel nuts are completely rusted. so i was wondering if there is anyone that has run into this problem and has any suggestions. thanks.

[Don't cross-post. Thanks.]

 

[eclipse95racer]

i have a 1995 Eclipse GS. i am trying to take the axels out because i am droping a new engine in. but first i need to take the axels out before i can remove the engine. my problem is that the axel nuts are completely rusted. so i was wondering if there is anyone that has run into this problem and has any suggestions. thanks.

 

[diablos991]

A TON of PB blaster and a good quality breaker bar/socket. And maybe a big pipe to put over that breaker bar. Mix in alot of swearing.... and vualla it will break loose.

 

[rjclagett]

A TON of PB blaster and a good quality breaker bar/socket. And maybe a big pipe to put over that breaker bar. Mix in alot of swearing.... and vualla it will break loose.

This is how I'd go about it, impact wrench wouldn't hurt either.

 

[HABITCKy]

Yes, PB Blaster and patience is your friend.

If you have time spray a bunch of penatrating lube on there once a day for a week or so, the more days you spend soaking the bolt/nut and letting the penatrating lube work it's way through the rust the easier it should come loose without you having to beat/damage it.

If you don't want to wait that long then use the brute force approach, just be careful not to round off or break anything.

Usually you have to deal with this crap with exhaust bolts.

 

[turbo90gsx]

Soak them with PB blaster for a few hours or days, be sure that you have the cotter pin out and heat up the nut/shaft spline with a torch of some sort, and while everything is hot slide a gynormous metal pipe over your wrench/breaker bar and PULL with all your might. Just be ready for it to snap. You also could use a powerfull 1/2" or 3/4" impact if you have compressed air.

 

[SBstar]

Everything said above and perhaps add some heat to the mix.

 

[tstkl]

I jumped on my breaker bar and it worked.... The torque specs for the axel to hub castle nut thingy (what I think your talking about, and which is 32mms in diameter, or 1.25 inches, whichever one your local hardware store carries.) is 144-181 ft lbs for a 1g at least. A torque wrench that only goes up to 150 ft lbs probably won't be able to get it off even on the highest settings. Just make sure the socket is on their good, get a 20 inch breaker bar, stand on it carefully, then hop up and it should break it lose very easily.

btw, I weigh 145-150 lbs, so me standing on the end of a 20 inch breaker bar and jumping means I had well over 250 ft lbs. try jumping softly at first. Don't just jump as high as you can and slam down. Otherwise you might break something. Even if you don't jump very hard, you still might break something. Be careful and make sure the socket is completely on the nut. If its off center and your using the 1.25 inch socket, you could easily strip the nut rather than break it lose.

remember, be careful.

 

[99gst_racer]

I once had a 90 TSi that had rusted on axle nuts. I broke three 1/2" breaker bars on one of the nuts in one night. The next day, we hit it with an acetylene torch and it came off very easily.

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[eclipse95racer]

i have tried the brut force meathod. but now after racking my knuckles, cutting my shin, and pulling my back, i think im done trying to force it. i used several 1 1/2 wrenches (broke 2 of them), tryed using an impact air wrench (broke the socket), and even beat it with a hammer. im thinking of going with the torch. but would the torch totaly screw up my axel nut or even my axel. im looking to use the same parts after i get the new engine in.

 

[RacethisTSI]

somtimes they dont come off..i snapped 2 1/2 inch breaker bars on a car i was doing a clutch on...right down the middle of the shaft...those things can be brutal, but best of luck to ya..try everything above and anything else you think may work

 

[99gst_racer]

im thinking of going with the torch. but would the torch totaly screw up my axel nut or even my axel. im looking to use the same parts after i get the new engine in.

Try to isolate the 'flame' of the torch directly on the end of the castle nut. Get it hot enought to glow, but don't start cutting with it. I ended up reusing my axle and nut after we got it off. As long as you don't get it too hot, it wont distort, and you will be fine.

 

[mtcs]

I just got myself a gutted out 1995 TSI AWD and am trying to replace all the axles before I swap all the parts from my GST into the shell. I have gotten all the brake parts off so I can put on my stop techs on but I am having a HUGE problem getting the four axle nuts off. I have gotten two off so far. One of them came off with a torch and impact gun. The second one took a breaker bar and a 3 foot pipe attached to the breaker bar and it came off after applying a lot of force! Now I have 2 left, both on the driver side. We used a 24" snap-on breaker bar and the 3 foot piece of pipe. Tried and tried on one wheel. Then 30 minutes later the breaker bar broke. We went to advanced auto parts and picked up an AMPRO one. We got it on the socket and tried again. It lasted about 10 seconds and it broke in the same spot that the Snap-on one broke. Shitty weak Ampro….pffff
My buddy and I have tried PB blaster, that rust remover, torch, impact gun, breaker bar.....nothing works. We had 2 cinder blocks on each wheel. When the breaker bar and pipe were on there and we were trying to break the nut loose, so much force was exerted that the car was lifted up and went over the cinderblock! Pretty crazy!
I don’t want to have to take off my entire knuckle with the axle in there and all. I then need to get a new hub which isn’t cheap ($120). The other thing I might be able to do is to use a bus impact gun. They are a lot more powerful then the conventional one we were using (Snap-on).
Any ideas anyone? Thanks.

Ben

My buddy Joey with his broken Snap on breaker bar...good thing he can get a replacement for free.

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[telnut]

what works best is a 1 inch impact gun, like the ones they use on or tractor trailer rig. I have never been able to not get one off with the 1 inch impact.

TElnut

 

[Laysher91]

A technique that has been successful for me is PB blaster and an impact gun. It wont break loose on the first try, but I would spray it and then use the impact wrench immediately to vibrate the nut for about 10-15 seconds. Keep doing the spray/vibrate with the impact gun on its highest setting (and crank up the psi) and it'll come. It will feel like you're not getting anywhere but it will break loose eventually. Usually takes about 5 times or so for me. Its also a great way to free up stuck rotors .

 

[Locke]

Invest in a bigger impact wrench.

 

[oldman]

As a last option, take a chisel and start hitting the nut CCW, it should eventually break loose or enough of material will be chisel away for it to fall apart, which ever come first. A bit primitive I know but it works, good luck.

 

[BUCK]

The NO FAIL THING - hence the BEST thing - PERIOD - is an Electric Angle Grinder - DOUBLE PERIOD - I honestly LOVE my Makita - PLUS you have the JOY of just cutting a 45 degree slice thru that motherf...... no good ass bitchin Nut - I bought my Angle Grinder AFTER wringing off the 1/2 Lug of my beloved Electric Impact, let's just say that I made that damn Nut pay for killing my Impact.

AND don't forget that all that beating & FRAMMING & torch heat WILL KILL Bearings & Seals - If it doesn't come off with reasonable force just cut the damn Nut & it'll spin off~!

 

[Pyrice4]

I used a 32mm (i think) socket with a regular 1/2in rachet(sp) and I 6ft barbell for weightlifting and just hung on the end. The bar was like 1in ID 1.25in OD.

 

[Rex2342]

What has always worked for me is my impact and the oxy acetylene torches. Get that sucker red hot and use the impact gun. I use an IR 2135Ti gun and It's never failed to remove the axles nuts. I just did this a few weeks ago on a TSi thats never been touched before. Those nuts looked like they were welded on and this method removed them. If you still can't get them try using a good air hammer with a chisel bit and work it CCW until it either breaks or comes loose. Good luck!

 

[Nicks2319]

+1 for impact and heat.