1G Auto Trans Tuning via Haltech or Any Aftermarket Computer, Let's Create A Thread

[Car Cannibal]

I'm a 1g Auto W4A33, now on Haltech, I've yanked the factory harness so no TCU.

I've got the Aaron Gregory software but this isn't geared towards everyday driving I guess.

I'm looking for....

Anyone get the aftermarket ECUs to fully talk with the 1G auto?

Tuners who can do this and contact?
PRNDL wiring schematic?

I'm gonna get the PRNDL wired up, though I don't have that info yet either.

I've got the 2 trans wires (orange/ yellow) going into Haltech. I've got GPS to cover the VSS issue on 1gs.

Car is currently going in and out of gear and can't recognize 1st or 2nd really, it's just locked in 3rd for now.

Just looking to create a thread for us auto guys since more and more will bail from the factory computers as time moves on.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Our transmission's are controlled by 2 solenoids. Powering them up together or in different configurations is how the trans shifts. I run a SmartShift 100.1 (no longer made but a newer model is). It is a standalone Transmission Control Unit, so it doesn't care what kind of ECU I have. Totally programmable. I built my own shift maps before they were available.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The best info I've come up with over the years is..
Get a shift box.. You can DL shift maps, you can program the tcu via the eprom tcu.
You can run a homemade shifter via toggle shifters.

My best option tho is get a shift box.. I think forced four is the only company that still makes them(I think)
Theres also the evo paddle shifters, possibly 7-8-9 evo auto tcus(don't quote me on thos)

 

[CrackedDSM]

It needs to supply constant voltage to whatever solenoid(s) to keep it in gear. It’s probably just sending a temp pulse thinking it’s activating a relay. I’ve never touched haltech so you’ll have to double check and research that.


But if you need it the shift sequence is all over the forums and I’m tired of posting it. Lol.

Honourable mention for easiest is the kiggly manumatic shifter mod. No TCU or programming needed. Just physically shift it from 1-2 or 2-3 whenever you want it to shift. Also makes it way more fun to drive too.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I have that 3g shifter wired and ready. I went to the push buttons so it's just "here".....

 

[CrackedDSM]

I have that 3g shifter wired and ready. I went to the push buttons so it's just "here".....

I never used the 3G shifter but man, I wouldn't have minded it a bit.


Still fun even using the OEM 1G horsecock shifter.


I will say I drove a 1G Auto with a hurst ratchet shifter and oh MAN was that a blast to drive.


Damn it, I want an Auto DSM again.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Back in MY day, we had ratchet shifters in our auto cars and you couldn't fk up a shift.....well.....I lifted up on the T bar and accidentally put my V8 Vega into reverse at 60mph. That was on me tho....
ALONG TIME AGO, IN A GALXAY FAR FAR AWAY.............

 

[Car Cannibal]

I am aware of the shift boxes but since I have a Haltech I'd like to utilize it's features and logging etc.

3g shifter or Hurst, I'm behind on these mods so I'll look them up and see, maybe that's the way to go, manual shifter that tells Haltech I'm physically in this gear and then button still functions for 4th.

 

[Car Cannibal]

I found a wiring guy that fixed my Haltech issues, I'm onto trans control.

PRNDL
Wiring help?
I read there might be 3 wires, that do what etc?

I'd like for this wiring guy to connect these wires to Haltech so it'll know what gear I'm physically in when I move the shifter.

My tuner will take care of those 2 trans solenoid wires for gears in Haltech but I'd like to use the shifter button for 4th and do that manually like I used to for years. I need help on PRNDL wiring.

Thanks

 

[Car Cannibal]

Here's what I got so far...

Orange Wire = Solenoid A, DBW1 Pin 25 Haltech
Yellow Wire = Solenoid B, DBW2 Pin 26 Haltech

1st gear - Both Solenoids On
2nd gear - Solenoid A off, Solenoid B on
3rd gear - Both Solenoids off(this is why limp mode trans are stuck in 3rd or cars w/ dead TCUs are stuck in 3rd)
4th/OD - Solenoid A on, Solenoid B off.


PRNDL and 1G auto wires coming soon.
I'm hoping to use GPS mph, Shifter gear, load and rpm in Haltech to have a great handle on the trans.
I'll post back after I get it worked out, hoping end of this July 14th week.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Since the Haltech can control a transmission, I'm looking to go this route, stand alone but don't know how to get the shifter to talk yet. (Kiggly is stand alone trans too he mentioned).

I found this on the Kiggly website but it's for his Manumatic vs going into a stand alone. I chopped the picture to make it relevant for stand alone control and here's some text that i edited for stand alone too.....

AUTO SHIFTER WIRING DSM Automatic
The blue wire is the input, which feeds to the various yellow wires when in gear positions.

It feeds the yellow with red stripe in 1st gear

The yellow with black stripe in 2nd gear

The plain yellow wire in 3rd gear

The heavier gauge black wires with the white and yellow stripe are the neutral safety switch. They make contact when the lever is in the park or neutral position and disable starting by breaking this contact when the lever is in other positions.


(Me talking)
I'm not exactly sure if I just need the 3 yellow wires to go to Haltech and we see when I'm in 1st which one activates, then 2nd etc.

What I'm also confused by is the black wires in the picture say starter solenoid but in the text are for the park and neutral like if they allow it to start the car if in park or neutral etc.

I'm getting close but don't know how to get the shifter wires, and which ones, to talk to Haltech yet.

Any help appreciated, I'll report back since I'm mega deep into this restoration and this might help another future auto Haltech.

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[Car Cannibal]

This is getting even more intense, when I'm done posting I'll have saved the next person 10s and 10s of hours of BS and insane shop labor wiring hours I've eaten and I've yet to get the trans to actually do anything so there's more to come.

It's clear this isn't easy or that plenty of Dsm autos are Haltech controlled. It's possible though, I'm getting close and I won't comment on the behind the scenes stuff.

You'll need this Haltech Connector and this wiring diagram initially to help. There's mods you do to the connector I don't know about that the tuner is doing and then 1 wire will come into the Haltech Spi or Avi. You can't use the trans wires into the 4 available injectors like I was told initially, that has led me down a path of no return and of I knew that originally I would've gone factory TCU stays in car.

You'll need this connector, that wiring diagram on my prior post and then there's more to come.

HT-038010 PRNDL Signal Converter - Suits Toyota A340 - Haltech

HT-038010 PRNDL Signal Converter – Suits Toyota A340 .,,,,. Outputs: 0-5V Analoge Output. Suits:Toyota A340. Includes: 1 x PRNDL Convertor – Suits A340 1 x DTM12 opposing connector and pins 1 x Quick Start Guide. Notes: 8 Digital Inputs to 1 Analogue Output, ( Inputs Preset as 3 Active High and...

www.haltech.com

I was hoping the OHM harness would've had this type of connector as plug and play into the autoshifter but no, maybe not their fault since no one ever asked for it (though I did say I'm auto and none of the trans wires did anything with their harness).

Good news....
The new 1g harness I'm working on with Caspers for Holley Dominator will have all this ready to go for us 1g guys so no one else will smoke thousands of dollars like I did to be the guinea. There's a path but my god was it a lot of research time, labor hours and I'm still not done.

The shift box, while easier, is definitely cheaper since they did all the homework and execution but it's not as factory like or connected to your full tuning software like if it were in the ECU control. This is a nice wrinkle of you want a modern Ecu in a street/strip/show car driver.

The drag guys have a much different and easier requirement.

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[Car Cannibal]

1g auto, you'll need the 2g VSS sensor since GPS can't be 100% reliable for the Haltech trans control. You can tap onto the 1g dash Reed switch but the 2g VSS seemed like a more accurate, possible easier approach.

Found this info and pic on the board
2G VSS
MD746492: Drive gear (short like 1g)
MD756606: VSS
Sheridan connector (they make the connector so you can plug and play easier). The 2g VSS is the same connector as MDP connector on 2g.


I think by early August my 1g will finally run with Haltech controlling the trans like the factory, gear shifter noticed (4th gear button wired in), solenoid pressure adjustment via blue wire on normal shifts vs WOT and VSS input for accuracy on up shifts and down shifts.

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[Car Cannibal]

The 2 black wires on the PRNDL shifter..
Black/Yellow
Black/White

These wires are so when you're in park or neutral the car will start but it won't allow the car to start if you're in 1st, 2nd or D so these are a safety.
My wiring guy has already made these wires with the eye connectors for the starter i'll probably run them and comment back.

Since I've been starting the car without these wires, it's clear you don't need them if you are aware of where the Shifter is when you're starting the car. I'll report back on this next week.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Haltech Elite 2500, 1g auto trans control like the factory is 95% complete.

Cars running with shifter recognition in Haltech, wow what a mess of time and money.
It's factory like shifting control with Manumatic control too. 4th works via button like normal and ic7 sees the gear you're in, though slow to respond on display but it's there.

I have GPS and VSS input for 100% accuracy and dependability.

We're slowly dialing in the shift rpms, blue wire shift solenoid and the reverse lights might need to go directly to the rear lights vs harness connector since the factory harness is gone. We tried to get the reverse lights to factory connectors but it's not turning on yet.

This could've been plug and play and saved me many many many thousands of $. I'm gonna make sure the future of this platform sees a real afordable and complete auto harness option and not make a dime off it but I can see why others might've bailed on the secrets here etc.

The Kiggly Manumatic was pretty helpful but it's not complete, actually it's not even the best diagram to use for the shifter PRNDL wiring.

I'm working with Casper on a true plug and play but if they bail I have a back up that will do this. I'm not putting in all this time, money and then sit on it because I'm a bit pissed in general on how deep this got.

Aaron Gregory software unfortunately won't cover this depth, I tried, not his fault it's mainly for drag cars.

I tried to talk with Kiggly but I don't have any past with him but that would've been great, maybe in the future.

Thanks to Steve and Hiroshi, 2 members that seem to have tons of answers on tap.

I'll be back after the harness is close so the word gets out and saves future members down time and $.

 

[Marley 1g dsm]

I use the force four gear smart PRND with my haltech to display gear and it work great. I also used the haltech ecu to control the transmission still working on the shift point for a smooth shift

 

[Car Cannibal]

IC7 has a little gear window and it shows which gear I'm in. You'll just need to get the Haltech to know which gear you're in first which is the big challenge.

The only thing I'm not real pumped with is the Haltech needs like 1/2 second to change gears, it's slow. I'll get the car back hopefully this week so I can maybe finalize all this, it's been a giant mess and I'm still not out of the woods, coil 3 died and it's running like piss still. 3 steps back and 1 forwards is how this all has gone.

 

[Marley 1g dsm]

Okay know that feeling. Yeah my IC-7 does have a little delay show the gear PRND

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Your dedication is appreciated!!! The forum is better when guys like you post up all of your issues AND the SOLUTIONS. That makes THIS forum far better than any other!
We ALL benefit from things like this.
Just a note on the FF boxes. They have a PRNDL option and a optional display, which I have mounted on my dash. Granted it doesn't talk to ECMLink, but in my case, I just wanted Automatic shifting OR manual shifting and my TCU was toast. Even my standalone box has a slight delay, so it may be typical.
Dam good write up so far so keep it going!
I just added that ForcedFour shiftbox info in case others that are reading this aren't running Haltech.
Marty

 

[diambo4life]

Great info bro. I will be doing something similar but in a 2G. Slowly consuming the info.

 

[jed344]

Very interested in this. A local car i tune we have currently set up to shift off shifter position and always full line press. Car is still on manual harness and the auto stuff we did a custom harness ourself. No TCU either. The plan is to put the car on a haltech and i wanted to have the haltech control it just like you have.

 

[Marley 1g dsm]

I am running my on the elite 2500 still working on the point but it's great so far.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Using a mph shift chart I found from Marty (thanks) me and Shawn tuned in a nice shift map so far, though we're not done yet and there's not a lot of miles on it to really fine tune.

When I say it shifts slow it's actually not the shifts from say 1-2, it's like Park to reverse etc, those seem to have a delay but while driving it shifts really well.

The Haltech can control the trans but considering there's currently no plug and play you'll need a lot of labor and diagrams to make this happen. Unless this harness company finds a few harness connector issues this won't be a solid financial option for most that pay shops.
The Haltech is an auto option but the cost doesn't outweigh the no TCU and FF shift box option for those on the fence.