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2G Auto trans contamination

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Tyler Davis

5+ Year Contributor
137
36
Feb 18, 2019
Kenosha, Wisconsin
Hey guys, I’ve had three autos and different T/C’s in the car and have had the pan look like this 3 times all after a few months of driving, just by the looks, obviously it isn’t good, but the car doesn’t drive any different than normal. Just curious as to what I’m doing wrong as 3 pans in a row have all looked like this

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How's your starter plate, flexplate, and do you have the pilot bushing for the TC seated all the way into the crank. If the TCs and Trans are all different and changed, but the problem follows you, I'd wager there's a spacing problem that's making the TCs eat into the pump.
 
How's your starter plate, flexplate, and do you have the pilot bushing for the TC seated all the way into the crank. If the TCs and Trans are all different and changed, but the problem follows you, I'd wager there's a spacing problem that's making the TCs eat into the pump.
Well I was unaware about the pilot bushing, mine would be missing now that I’m thinking of it, the block was a 7 bolt for a manual and none of the cranks or blocks I have in the garage have a pilot bushing either, so I’m guessing that would be my issue huh. You think by any chance that is salvageable if I separate it all and put a bushing in and pop it back together or is that a farcry LOL
 
Well I was unaware about the pilot bushing, mine would be missing now that I’m thinking of it, the block was a 7 bolt for a manual and none of the cranks or blocks I have in the garage have a pilot bushing either, so I’m guessing that would be my issue huh. You think by any chance that is salvageable if I separate it all and put a bushing in and pop it back together or is that a farcry LOL

If it has that much metal in it, it needs a rebuild because that metal is in literally every orifice and spot in the entire transmission. The clutches, on the bands, in the converter, in the pump, etc. so unfortunately that’s a wrap. At minimum it needs to be pulled completely apart and cleaned thoroughly in a hot tank.


BUT, the no bushing thing can be easily fixed. Volk metal craft makes a replacement w4A33 pilot bushing so you can slap it in and go. Also make sure you use the automatic starter plate. You can find one cheap, but the spacing is different between those and the manuals.
 
I will add that if you did or do not flush out the transmission cooler lines really really well, you will continue to contaminate any new parts or new converters and transmissions that you install into that car or onto those cooler lines.
 
I will add that if you did or do not flush out the transmission cooler lines really really well, you will continue to contaminate any new parts or new converters and transmissions that you install into that car or onto those cooler lines.

Absolutely forgot that. Great advice.


Just buy a new trans cooler and lines tbh. Kits are inexpensive and it’s not worth risking a few stubborn pieces of metal being lodged that’ll ruin another good trans.
 
As me fioned above clean everything. Forget to clean the cooler as its gone. Like like oil coolers when a besring goes on you its a consumable so thrown away for a new one.

Open up the valve body and clean the solenoids and every section inside and while you are there might aswell install a shift kit. Have a seperator plate ready incase yours is beated up by the steel check ball as 90% are if high mileage!

If your pump has caused this then you may need to get a good used one as you cannot buy new now so be prepped incase thats needed
 
Thanks guys, i have another trans being built by Rix racing at the moment, just didn’t want the same thing to happen to that one because swapping these out is kind of a pain haha and I figured it had to be something I was doing wrong because I thought these transmissions were pretty stout even in stock form, can’t learn if you don’t make mistakes! I had been swapping coolers to a new one each time I changed the trans as well
 
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