AUTO Rear Differential Fluid?

[AFG-DSM2g]

Yeah, I'm a noob at this stuff, cut me a break I'm only 16. Okay, so I've been looking around a bunch of dsm forums and cant find anything on auto's alone. I saw a few people saying that the manual tranny and auto tranny rear diffs are meant to carry different fluids. Ive heard redline 80w/90 a lot but only after m/t rear diffs are mentioned.

I just want to know what the best rear diff fluid for my lightly modded/DD 2ga GSX is? and where i can get it? Its been SUPER long since its been changed and my dad is saying just put normal motor oil in it and its making me think he has schizophrenia or something...

Also, i think it'd be a good time to change out my Transmission fluid, so auto Tranny fluid info would also be very much appreciated. And i changed out the t-case fluid when i swapped my oil pan a month ago, so that's taken care of.
Thanks!

 

[steve]

There is no difference when it come to fluids for the rear diff and/or transfer cases between autos and manuals. The only place it makes a difference is for the transmission for what I hope are obvious reasons.

I prefer real ATF+3 or ATF+4 for the automatics. RedLine MT90 for the manuals or the Mits OEM trans fluid.

On a lightly modded car a good quality gear oil (75W90 TC, 80W90 RD) works great. If your beating on it RedLine shockproof is also a good option)

 

[AFG-DSM2g]

I dont beat on it too much, and i plan on tracking it once in a while this year.
So should i go with Redline Superlight Shockproof SAE 75W90?
Red Line Synthetic Oil - ShockProof® Gear Oils - Superlight ShockProof®

And who makes the best synthetic ATF+3/4 Tranny Fluids?
I have about 69k on the tranny.
I only want the best for my car, money isn't an issue, as long as its worth it.

 

[muddfisher85]

I use redline on most fluids in my car. Little pricey but worth the cost. I heard the ATF fluid they have is great too. I hope this helps some.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Auto owner for 10 years here.

Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil in Tcase and rear Diff. Theres no reason to put in anything else, this fluid is proven to perform better under load (and shock) and last much longer than OEM. Even if you don't drive the car hard, why not run what's proven should you ever want to do more with the car.

For the tranny, the most common (what I've run for 10 years) seems to be:

Redline C+ ATF with 1 bottle Lubeguard friction modifier from IPT Trans.

This stuff seems to be impossible to burn, and out-performs OEM fluids in all categories.

 

[turbojoeg]

I agree with the Redline Shockproof. Very good stuff

 

[AFG-DSM2g]

Alright, so i'l change the transfercase fluid to the Redline stuff also.

Is this correct for the auto's?:
AWD transmission- 2.3 Qts
Transfer case- .5 Qt
Rear differential- .9 Qt

And please confirm that im looking at the right stuff here

Redline C+ATF Auto Tranny Fluid - Red Line Oil 30604 Automatic Transmission Fluid | eBay

Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil - eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

IPT LubeGuard Additive - LubeGard Additive (Black Bottle)

Is this all the right stuff? Sorry for bugging you guys so much, i just want to be sure.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Mostly correct, however the one thing your off on is tranny fluid capacity, it's somewhere between 7 qt and 9 qt, and depends on the size of the tranny cooler and condition of tranny pan (some peoples are impacted and thus the tranny capacity is reduced).

There are procedures for checking tranny fluid level as you add fluid, make sure you search on that and if you have a chiltons or other manual read up there as well.

Tcase and Rear Diff capacities are easy to get right. Fill each until the fluid starts to drip back out of the fill hole, make sure your on a flat surface. This way you don't need to measure fluid amount.

All links are correct, but you should be able to source the the Redline fluids for cheaper. Try sourcing two 5 qts of the C+ ATF to get it cheaper.

 

[AFG-DSM2g]

i found it by the gallon, but even if i get 2 gallons (8 Quarts) it would end up around $75 + $43 shipping does that seem about right? i mean $118 is a lot, is there a place where you find them cheaper?

 

[goodbuds]

evo10 m, tranny fluid change is about 250.. auto fluid is expensive.

unless you can find it local go with lucas or royal purple..

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Haven't bought Redline C+ in about 5 years... It's still good! I think it was $9 a qt back then, so $75 for 8qt is about right

 

[Doubleot]

Heavyweight shockproof is what I'm going to run in my rear diff.


I've always ran Valvoline ATF +4 full synthetic in the trans and haven't had an issue yet.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Here is where I get all my Redline Fluids from.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

 

[AFG-DSM2g]

Thanks a lot for your help guys! I Really appreciate it!
I ended up ordering:
- 2 qts. of Red Line Oil 58204 Synthetic Shock Proof Gear Oil - $31.35
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

- 2 Gallons of Red line 30605 C+ATF Synthetic Auto Trans Fluid - $99.99
Redline 30605 C+ATF - 1 gallon

Total of $131.34 USD
That's the cheapest i could find.
Also i have a question about the additive, the one i found at ITP is too much for shipping and i found them on ebay but they have different markings or specifications.
One of them says: CONVERTS STOCK OIL TO OEM FOR: 45RFE 45R 45-RFE 5-45RFE
The other one: CONVERTS STOCK OIL TO OEM FOR: 47RE 47RH 48RE
Both of them say they are made for Chrysler Auto Transmission, and mentions "Mitsubishi Diamond SP"

From what im seeing is that they range from 40te to 47re. and i have no idea what they mean.
These are what im looking at:
LUBEGARD® BLACK HFM-ATF SUPPLEMENT MOPAR 45RFE 5-45RFE | eBay

LUBEGARD BLACK HFM-ATF SUPPLEMENT A618 47RE 47RH 48RE | eBay

LUBEGARD BLACK HFM-ATF SUPPLEMENT A604 40TE 41TE 41AE | eBay

LUBEGARD® BLACK HFM-ATF SUPPLEMENT A500 42RE 42RH 44RE | eBay

 

[Jaime818]

I just installed A B&M supercooler and decided to go ahead and replace the ATF filter and gasket ($12). Decided to go with B&M trick shift because it was readily available at my local Auto parts store and its shifting pretty smooth. Just did it today,so I can't give any long term details, but I've used it before and at $7 a quart it wasn't to pricey. It took 5 quarts to fill it up and that's with the trans cooler being moved over to the unused drivers side air intake/duct.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Ouch, yeah the shipping from IPT is steep. You could skip the lubeguard, I ran with lubeguard this last flush because I ordered a bottle years ago, but The Redline C+ ATF is already much better than OEM. If I start getting slippage with the lubeguard I'll be pissed!

 

[dsmspick]

Good job on getting redline heavy! That stuff is awesome!

 

[AFG-DSM2g]

Ouch, yeah the shipping from IPT is steep. You could skip the lubeguard, I ran with lubeguard this last flush because I ordered a bottle years ago, but The Redline C+ ATF is already much better than OEM. If I start getting slippage with the lubeguard I'll be pissed!

Alright, so your saying just forget about the LubeGaurd? The Redline trans oil alone will be fine?

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Alright, so your saying just forget about the LubeGaurd? The Redline trans oil alone will be fine?

Yes redline by itself is still much better than oem. The lubeguard is a bit like water wetter for coolant, you don't need it, but it does offer some advantages and improvements to the fluid.

BTW Some reading I've done suggest the lubeguard may be overkill when used with Redline fluids, but a lot of guys run it for piece of mind. I've done both. I ran for 4 years with just Redline C+ ATF, and I've been running Redline C+ ATF + 1 Bottle Lubeguard for a year. Trans has 150k, and has seen its share of straight line passes.