The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

arp main studs or oem main studs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

If you are in there you might as well replace them with ARPs. OEM main studs are great too, they are proven for way more power than you are shooting for.
 
If you use any 'studs' youll need to line bore the block (unless the factory uses studs). If you reuse the bolts (i dont know what the 420 uses, but 4G63 uses bolts) then you dont need to do any line boring.
 
If you use any 'studs' youll need to line bore the block (unless the factory uses studs). If you reuse the bolts (i dont know what the 420 uses, but 4G63 uses bolts) then you dont need to do any line boring.
Why would he need to line bore the block? Studs don't change the alignment of any of the bearing surfaces...

The 420A uses main bolts from the factory.
 
VelocitàPaola;152944077 said:
Why would he need to line bore the block? Studs don't change the alignment of any of the bearing surfaces...

The 420A uses main bolts from the factory.

I have always been taught / seen that line boring/honing was possibly required with ARP main studs because of the increased clamp load

Idea is, it can make the bearing journals get out of round so the machinst will torque to spec then measure the crank bearing bore with the inside micrometer to check against specs

But I'm no machinist or expert on this, so that's why I'm asking :ohdamn:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top