Another MAFT initial tuning question for ya

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

I have a 1g and put this translator in today. I am wanting to make sure i have my base correct. The way i'm looking at this chart i have, i have my base set on A and my Aux on 1. I have 680cc injectors (supposidly) that is what they are, but i bought them from a certain crappy vendor so who the hell knows what they are flowing.

Also, in the instructions, it says at idle, the green led light should be off at idle. Mine is glowing at idle, what does that mean?

Also, at idle at these base settings, with my logger, i am getting .01-.03 O2-R volts on my MMCD software? I'm scared to take my car for a drive cuz i don't want to melt pistons, am i o.k. here or what?

Someone help me out please.

Thanks

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

pic.

 

[awd4g63]

You may have a bad o2 sensor. I'm assuming you haven't driven the car with that low of an o2 voltage. You should take it out and go WOT for a few seconds and monitor your knock. If you're not having any knock and/or timing retard, then it's probably a bad o2 sensor. Hope this helps

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

my O2 sensor is brand new, i hope to hell it isn't bad. It goes up when driving, but now i'm having other issues, i failed my compression test horribly so i'm f'd anyways.

 

[nine5raptor]

Give it a few light revs and watch what the 02s do. If they oscillate when on the gas, you need to richen your idle up some to compensate for injector dead time.

My green light is on at idle as well, and has been for over a year. That just means you flow a little more air/rev at idle than normal. No biggie.

If you are scared to drive it, you can set your base up for 600s or so and lean it back out based on fuel trims. This will allow you to zero in on 680s while making sure you start safely rich.

One other thing to check, is make sure your switches are all set right.

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

Thanks for the info.

I took the car out for a spin today to log, and it seems my power steering line was leaking fluid right down to the inside of my alternator. I came to a stop and the car died. Tried to start it and it didn't do anything but make a click. I checked the voltage on my palm and I had only like 9.4v. WTF!

I now see why they say DSM stands for doesn't stay moving.

When i get out of a stop though. From like 20mph and cruising at anything higher, the car runs awesome, but it's when i am at idle and try to take off, it is bucking and shit. Fn'g pissing me off.

 

[jérôme]

recheck your rpm signal wire. make sure its well hooked up. ill bet thats the problem(gentlemen's bet, of course)
let us know how it goes,
jerome

 

[jérôme]

ps: its the white wire from the maft and it should hook up to your #2 CAS wire i believe. double check that, though.

 

[nine5raptor]

Originally posted by jérôme
recheck your rpm signal wire. make sure its well hooked up. ill bet thats the problem(gentlemen's bet, of course)
let us know how it goes,
jerome

Actually, it will run just fine with the rpm wire disconnected. All tuning points will simply be based on airflow instead of airflow/rev

 

[jérôme]

no it will run like poopoo when you are at low speeds and when you shift.
it did for me anyway.

 

[nine5raptor]

I have run mine rpm wireless with no negative effects and both Mike Licht and Bob Bailey say it'll work just fine with that wire disconnected.