420RS
Probationary Member
- 11
- 0
- Apr 2, 2007
-
Glen head,
New York
Hi Guys,
I am new to this forum and did my best to find something that refers to a problem i am having with my 1997 RS, but had no luck so far.
My problem started when the timming belt broke on the car.
I then found another Engine of Talon, and sent it to machine shop, decided would
rebuilt strong N/A motor.
So they have put higher comperssion pistons i think 10:5:1 or something like that, not sure if thats correct, but i know it was 10 for sure. Anyways, bored .40 over, port polished.
Engine was looking great.
So, when it was done, i actually thought since motor has now obviously more HP then stock, i decided to order a little bit bigger injectors, so i ordered from HAHN motors a 220cc injectors.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
When we installed the engine, i started out great, engine was running great.
But some problems start occuring now.
I remember when after one night of driving, my RPM start jumping at idle pretty fast.
from 900 to 4500 back down to 1000 and so one, up and down.
My mechanic did put same old vacuum line when he installed the engine.
To be honest, the hoses don't look good, have small cracks, but defenatelly not that big to let that much AIR inside the intake to have it raised to 4500 in instant.
Also, on my old fuel rail, i didn't have Vacuum line connecting to it, but on Talons fuel rail there was a vacuum socket. So when we saw it, we assumed it was FPR, we didn't know where to connect it, or if it needed to be connected, so we figured since, we have old ECU which didn't use that line, we though not to connect anything to it. It was running well though for long time without beeing connected, so not sure if thats related.
Now some time later, Idle Jumping got Fixed on its own. And now it doesn't do it!
BUT, i am defenately running Lean now!
At WOT the black smoke star comming out of exhaust, and A/F Guage showing Rich. Plus all you can smell is unburned gasoline.
I have changed the O2 sensor, but no difference was made.
Also noiced that A/F Guage, on idle and when driving sometimes, stops jumping left and right, and instead ALL Lights are ON, After playing with throttle, it then will start working properly. The performace during lights on, defenately poor.
So seeing all these signs, i am confusined to what could be wrong with the car.
Is it Injectors too big?
Is it vacuum problem?
Is it sensor problem?
My first focus to fix this problem, will defenately be changing all the vacuum line now.
But I have no clue what to do with FPR on that Fuel Rail, should i connect it to the Intake Manifold or better off, getting the Fuel rail that doesn't have FPR on it, just like my old one.
Oh, also i noticed yesterday, that the small vacuum hose that goes to EGR, was somehow bent, and looking at the damage, it look as if there was defenately no air flowing towards or from EGR Valve, not sure which way it goes.
NOTE: All sensors were transfered from my old engine, except O2 sensor which was new.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Also, i noticed when idle is steady at 900 RPM, i open throttle just a littlebit to approx. 1100 rpm and hold it there, the niddle goes up to 1100RPM then drops to 800 RPM and stays there, engine sounds like it def. is not running good, and then when i let go of throttle the RPM goes down to like 400 almost dieing, and gets back up to 900.
Actualy thats when i noticed the A/F guage had its lights ON in wide range, basucally all sections of the A?F Guage lights were on.
I just hope that i don't have to change every damn sensor on that engine.
Pretty sure due to running lean, and having lots of combustion. It did have a bad effect on many sensors.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Next problem,
The Underdrive pulley was same old pulley, and its out of balance or something, cause it defenately not moving smooth when you look at it, and AC and Powerstearing Belts keep flying out of it. Is it a big problem? I mean is thats what it called Crank Walk?
Will changing the Puley to a new one, will fix the problem? I am changing it anyway!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Next Problem,
The Thoat bearing, i think thats what it called. Its inside the Transmission. When you press on the clutch pedal, the fork inside transmission, is pushin this Round bearing towards the Clutch, thats when you shift gears.
That bearing is peace of sh*t on 420 Engines, I am sure you guys know what i am takling about.
When you let go of Clutch pedal, the fork suppose to pull the bearing back out and hold on to the bearing. The way the bearing is holding on to that fork is, with little PLASTIC hooks, which freaking BREAK sooo easily. My mechanic, tried to put that bearing in, and actually broke off 3 of them. On last one, I think he just snapped it in , telling me that he finally got it, but i still got the damn problem again. The bearing broke again, and its grines touching the rotating Clutch inside. I am sure though that my damn mechanic broke the 4th one and put it back in there anyways, cause chances that same thing break inside is so small.
So now i gotta change clutch and bearing again, and wonder if there is another option to go with this time. Is there a good after market Clucth with stronger bearing and hooks on them, and maybe the fork itself?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I hope I can get assistance from you guys, on how to fix all these problems!
The car is in another shop now, new mechanics. They will be fixing that thing one at a time i guess. I will leave the feedback on what happend, and how it got fixed.
I will let ya know, what are the Engine Code, i don't remember of hand atm! Will get back on it tonight, need to stop by and check it.
Thank you all,
Regards,
ROB
I am new to this forum and did my best to find something that refers to a problem i am having with my 1997 RS, but had no luck so far.
My problem started when the timming belt broke on the car.
I then found another Engine of Talon, and sent it to machine shop, decided would
rebuilt strong N/A motor.
So they have put higher comperssion pistons i think 10:5:1 or something like that, not sure if thats correct, but i know it was 10 for sure. Anyways, bored .40 over, port polished.
Engine was looking great.
So, when it was done, i actually thought since motor has now obviously more HP then stock, i decided to order a little bit bigger injectors, so i ordered from HAHN motors a 220cc injectors.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
When we installed the engine, i started out great, engine was running great.
But some problems start occuring now.
I remember when after one night of driving, my RPM start jumping at idle pretty fast.
from 900 to 4500 back down to 1000 and so one, up and down.
My mechanic did put same old vacuum line when he installed the engine.
To be honest, the hoses don't look good, have small cracks, but defenatelly not that big to let that much AIR inside the intake to have it raised to 4500 in instant.
Also, on my old fuel rail, i didn't have Vacuum line connecting to it, but on Talons fuel rail there was a vacuum socket. So when we saw it, we assumed it was FPR, we didn't know where to connect it, or if it needed to be connected, so we figured since, we have old ECU which didn't use that line, we though not to connect anything to it. It was running well though for long time without beeing connected, so not sure if thats related.
Now some time later, Idle Jumping got Fixed on its own. And now it doesn't do it!
BUT, i am defenately running Lean now!
At WOT the black smoke star comming out of exhaust, and A/F Guage showing Rich. Plus all you can smell is unburned gasoline.
I have changed the O2 sensor, but no difference was made.
Also noiced that A/F Guage, on idle and when driving sometimes, stops jumping left and right, and instead ALL Lights are ON, After playing with throttle, it then will start working properly. The performace during lights on, defenately poor.
So seeing all these signs, i am confusined to what could be wrong with the car.
Is it Injectors too big?
Is it vacuum problem?
Is it sensor problem?
My first focus to fix this problem, will defenately be changing all the vacuum line now.
But I have no clue what to do with FPR on that Fuel Rail, should i connect it to the Intake Manifold or better off, getting the Fuel rail that doesn't have FPR on it, just like my old one.
Oh, also i noticed yesterday, that the small vacuum hose that goes to EGR, was somehow bent, and looking at the damage, it look as if there was defenately no air flowing towards or from EGR Valve, not sure which way it goes.
NOTE: All sensors were transfered from my old engine, except O2 sensor which was new.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Also, i noticed when idle is steady at 900 RPM, i open throttle just a littlebit to approx. 1100 rpm and hold it there, the niddle goes up to 1100RPM then drops to 800 RPM and stays there, engine sounds like it def. is not running good, and then when i let go of throttle the RPM goes down to like 400 almost dieing, and gets back up to 900.
Actualy thats when i noticed the A/F guage had its lights ON in wide range, basucally all sections of the A?F Guage lights were on.
I just hope that i don't have to change every damn sensor on that engine.
Pretty sure due to running lean, and having lots of combustion. It did have a bad effect on many sensors.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Next problem,
The Underdrive pulley was same old pulley, and its out of balance or something, cause it defenately not moving smooth when you look at it, and AC and Powerstearing Belts keep flying out of it. Is it a big problem? I mean is thats what it called Crank Walk?
Will changing the Puley to a new one, will fix the problem? I am changing it anyway!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Next Problem,
The Thoat bearing, i think thats what it called. Its inside the Transmission. When you press on the clutch pedal, the fork inside transmission, is pushin this Round bearing towards the Clutch, thats when you shift gears.
That bearing is peace of sh*t on 420 Engines, I am sure you guys know what i am takling about.
When you let go of Clutch pedal, the fork suppose to pull the bearing back out and hold on to the bearing. The way the bearing is holding on to that fork is, with little PLASTIC hooks, which freaking BREAK sooo easily. My mechanic, tried to put that bearing in, and actually broke off 3 of them. On last one, I think he just snapped it in , telling me that he finally got it, but i still got the damn problem again. The bearing broke again, and its grines touching the rotating Clutch inside. I am sure though that my damn mechanic broke the 4th one and put it back in there anyways, cause chances that same thing break inside is so small.
So now i gotta change clutch and bearing again, and wonder if there is another option to go with this time. Is there a good after market Clucth with stronger bearing and hooks on them, and maybe the fork itself?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I hope I can get assistance from you guys, on how to fix all these problems!
The car is in another shop now, new mechanics. They will be fixing that thing one at a time i guess. I will leave the feedback on what happend, and how it got fixed.
I will let ya know, what are the Engine Code, i don't remember of hand atm! Will get back on it tonight, need to stop by and check it.
Thank you all,
Regards,
ROB
, then plus Gears. Damn... need to get money printing machine.
