An fittings

[gst noob]

Hay guyes so iv been lookin in to AN fittings and I want to do every thing with stainless lines and AN fittings I was wondering if their was a complete key to do this on a 2g. Iv been looking at extreme psi and they sell simple kits to do like the fuel feed but its really expense over 100 dollars I would be willing to pay like 500 to do my I tire engine bay and get rid of all the rubber hoses and clamps. I also don't want to have to piece together every thing bit by bit. Im not to good with thred size and pitch so if heirs a kit out their it would be perfect. Thanks for any help

 

[agentorange313]

By upgrading(depends who you ask) to AN fitting you have entered the world of DIY (do it yourself)

There are multiple kits: oil return, fuel feed from tank/ from filter, AFPR an hose kit. Thats about it as far as availability for kits. There are literally hundreds of application for AN hose and fittings, so an entire car kit would not exist, plus with the prices of existing kits (too expensive apparently) why would a kit for an "entire car" be any less expensive.

Now you can use AN hosing and fittings for all fluid applications, my turbo coolant lines for my turbo are all AN and they do not sell a kit. Had to get the info myself, and make one, not too hard. -6AN lines, hose ends, hose and two repective fittings (14mm x 1.5mm to -6AN and 16mm x 1.5mm to -6AN).

Honestly, I say you put in the effort in researching what you need to do the AN set up if you really want it. I have never heard of anyone being upset that they learned something new that can benefit them, then again I probably would not hang out or talk to people with that mentality.

BTW, SS lines are a PITA @#!$%$@!# (ask my fingers). Look into russell proclassic or nylon hoses. Unless you are dead set on the shiny bling of the SS lines.

So....OP, what thread pitches are you looking for, we (the community) can help you out buddy. Not to mention that all that infor already exists on the forum, since many of us have done the switch to using AN lines and fittings.

 

[finesse49ers]

If you think that Extreme PSI kit was expensive then you might as well forget about this entire idea. As stated there aren't any "complete" kits for this car and you'll have to piece it together on various parts of your setup (fuel feed, fuel return, turbo, PCV/catch can if you go that route, coolant). Seeing that you haven't any engine upgrades the entire process of switching to AN fittings with lines is impractical. But for referencing purposes here is a thread that was just recently closed that has some good info in it about fitting sizes on various lines: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/424409-fittings.html

 

[gst noob]

By upgrading(depends who you ask) to AN fitting you have entered the world of DIY (do it yourself)

There are multiple kits: oil return, fuel feed from tank/ from filter, AFPR an hose kit. Thats about it as far as availability for kits. There are literally hundreds of application for AN hose and fittings, so an entire car kit would not exist, plus with the prices of existing kits (too expensive apparently) why would a kit for an "entire car" be any less expensive.

Now you can use AN hosing and fittings for all fluid applications, my turbo coolant lines for my turbo are all AN and they do not sell a kit. Had to get the info myself, and make one, not too hard. -6AN lines, hose ends, hose and two repective fittings (14mm x 1.5mm to -6AN and 16mm x 1.5mm to -6AN).

Honestly, I say you put in the effort in researching what you need to do the AN set up if you really want it. I have never heard of anyone being upset that they learned something new that can benefit them, then again I probably would not hang out or talk to people with that mentality.

BTW, SS lines are a PITA @#!$%$@!# (ask my fingers). Look into russell proclassic or nylon hoses. Unless you are dead set on the shiny bling of the SS lines.

So....OP, what thread pitches are you looking for, we (the community) can help you out buddy. Not to mention that all that infor already exists on the forum, since many of us have done the switch to using AN lines and fittings.

Ok we'll I'm just testing the waters. I hate rubber hoses and those stupid stock clamps and even hose clamps can be a pita. I'm open to any thing just has to be nock every thing under my hood is black

By upgrading(depends who you ask) to AN fitting you have entered the world of DIY (do it yourself)

There are multiple kits: oil return, fuel feed from tank/ from filter, AFPR an hose kit. Thats about it as far as availability for kits. There are literally hundreds of application for AN hose and fittings, so an entire car kit would not exist, plus with the prices of existing kits (too expensive apparently) why would a kit for an "entire car" be any less expensive.

Now you can use AN hosing and fittings for all fluid applications, my turbo coolant lines for my turbo are all AN and they do not sell a kit. Had to get the info myself, and make one, not too hard. -6AN lines, hose ends, hose and two repective fittings (14mm x 1.5mm to -6AN and 16mm x 1.5mm to -6AN).

Honestly, I say you put in the effort in researching what you need to do the AN set up if you really want it. I have never heard of anyone being upset that they learned something new that can benefit them, then again I probably would not hang out or talk to people with that mentality.

BTW, SS lines are a PITA @#!$%$@!# (ask my fingers). Look into russell proclassic or nylon hoses. Unless you are dead set on the shiny bling of the SS lines.

So....OP, what thread pitches are you looking for, we (the community) can help you out buddy. Not to mention that all that infor already exists on the forum, since many of us have done the switch to using AN lines and fittings.

If you think that Extreme PSI kit was expensive then you might as well forget about this entire idea. As stated there aren't any "complete" kits for this car and you'll have to piece it together on various parts of your setup (fuel feed, fuel return, turbo, PCV/catch can if you go that route, coolant). Seeing that you haven't any engine upgrades the entire process of switching to AN fittings with lines is impractical. But for referencing purposes here is a thread that was just recently closed that has some good info in it about fitting sizes on various lines: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/424409-fittings.html

My profile is way out if date. I should update that. I'm totally 6 bolt swapped with forged internals. I'm just terrified of bursting a hose in the middle of the night way out in the boonies. I really just want the easy flexor a rubber hose but the durability of a hard line and a nice sturdy connection.

 

[Paul@RTM]

Pretty much what everyone else has said: if you're looking to do your entire engine bay for less than $100, you're best off to just drop the idea entirely. No shame in not going with an idea that is simply too much for your budget.

 

[bigbird94]

Let me start off by saying leaky hoses used to plague both of my DSM's. I have figured out how to combat these leaks and AN fittings aren't the answer. IMO AN fittings are actually less reliable, and a complete waste of money. I have had nothing but problems with all of mine with the exception of my turbo's oil feed. The best thing to do is to replace all of your current hoses with new regular rubber(?) hose that can be purchased dirt cheap at Fleet Farm. Buy the correct size hose, buy all new worm clamps, and seal every connection with a small amount of adehesive, and you will be set for a long time.

Here is a small list of underhood hoses you will be dealing with..
Turbo coolant feed, return
Turbo oil feed, return
OFH feed, return
TB hoses (can be deleted)
Water pipe to Water neck
Rad hoses
PCV to IM
VC to Intake
Water neck to coolant bottle


All of these, except the radiator hoses, should be 3/8" hose but I can't confirm that.
If you are running a water cooled ofh I would recomend you upgrade to a 90' style external cooler. For the turbo return I run a stock piece w/ the flex section cut out for rubber hose, it works great. Make sure to take your time and make sure the connections are all solid, if you do this right not only will it look good but will also go a long way keeping you from being stranded out in the boonies again.

 

[gst noob]

Pretty much what everyone else has said: if you're looking to do your entire engine bay for less than $100, you're best off to just drop the idea entirely. No shame in not going with an idea that is simply too much for your budget.

In my first post I stated I was willing to spend 500 to do AN in my entire engine bay.

Let me start off by saying leaky hoses used to plague both of my DSM's. I have figured out how to combat these leaks and AN fittings aren't the answer. IMO AN fittings are actually less reliable, and a complete waste of money. I have had nothing but problems with all of mine with the exception of my turbo's oil feed. The best thing to do is to replace all of your current hoses with new regular rubber(?) hose that can be purchased dirt cheap at Fleet Farm. Buy the correct size hose, buy all new worm clamps, and seal every connection with a small amount of adehesive, and you will be set for a long time.

Here is a small list of underhood hoses you will be dealing with..
Turbo coolant feed, return
Turbo oil feed, return
OFH feed, return
TB hoses (can be deleted)
Water pipe to Water neck
Rad hoses
PCV to IM
VC to Intake
Water neck to coolant bottle


All of these, except the radiator hoses, should be 3/8" hose but I can't confirm that.
If you are running a water cooled ofh I would recomend you upgrade to a 90' style external cooler. For the turbo return I run a stock piece w/ the flex section cut out for rubber hose, it works great. Make sure to take your time and make sure the connections are all solid, if you do this right not only will it look good but will also go a long way keeping you from being stranded out in the boonies again.

After reading your post I'm inspired to stick with rubber. What do you mean by external water cooler for the ofh I thought that was an oil cooler?

 

[bigbird94]

In my first post I stated I was willing to spend 500 to do AN in my entire engine bay.



After reading your post I'm inspired to stick with rubber. What do you mean by external water cooler for the ofh I thought that was an oil cooler?

The factory 1991+ 6 bolt oil cooler (where the oil filter goes on) is cooled by coolant from the water neck. The 1990 oil cooler is air cooled, think of it like a little fmic. If you can find a 90' in the junkyard or being parted out grab the oil filter housing, the oil cooler, the hoses to/from oc to ofh, and water neck. This isnt a "need" but is a good idea for a few reasons.

 

[miguelmcv]

I am agree with all what have stated, going with AN is nice if you know how to do the job, other wise, you will end up having leaks everywhere even being AN

It would be hard to build an AN kit for the entire car, which there are just a few dsm with the same specification, some of you are complete stock and some are all ready modded, which that will be a pain in the ### to make the kit, there are thousand of turbos that we can run and in so different configurations that will be hard to figure it out, no one will like to have a thousand of AN kits available for our cars.

About the prices, I spend over $300 only on my Steering and AC set up, so $500 will take you to have or less of the entire car if it's completely stock, It is not just diy, but there are a lot of AN weld bungs to be welded and that's an extra $$ to spend.

Your best bet is what BigBird suggested, go with all new rubber hoses and you will not have to worry about hoses for a long time.

 

[T is for TURBO]

As far as AN fittings go, if you buy quality fittings, and assembly them correctly, they won't leak. Buy cheap, and they'll leak. I have not had luck with A1 fittings. Russel, earls, XRP, Aeroquip are all real good.

I would stay away from stainless though. They are not fun to work with, I would only use them where they go near the hot exhaust. I just did my water lines to my turbo and used stainless. But if I were to redo my oil cooler, and fuel lines, I would use nylon braided hose with AN fittings instead, as stainless is rough on painted finishes, is stiff, and you will poke the shit out of your fingers when trying to assemble them.

Check out ANplumbing

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Ebay has a lot of great -AN kits for DSM's. I just bought a return line kit for very cheap. I would never buy -AN kits from vendors. They want way too much money. It is hard to come by -AN lines and fittings locally, but I have ordered off of Speedway for some DIY stuff.

 

[born2tune]

I will only speak for myself on this one but I have never heard of a AN line leaking EVER. everything in my talon has been upgraded to AN, AND SS lines and not once have I dealt will any leaking issue. not hard to work with either, obviously if all you have is a garage port, a hack saw and a broken flat tip screw driver, a 5/8 wrench and a 13mm deepwell socket anything is hard to do.
So as long as you have the proper equipment, tools any knowledge I DO recommend AN fittings and lines.
I work on military aircraft and on ALL fluid applications from transmission oil, engine oil, hydraulic fluid running at 3000PSI and fuel running at 2000PSI they all use AN fittings. Never have they leaked.

One thing to note which is true from military brands to civilian brands is that you cannot intermix AN brands EVER. they will leak because they carry different designs regardless if they are all 37*.

Ebay has a lot of great -AN kits for DSM's. I just bought a return line kit for very cheap. I would never buy -AN kits from vendors. They want way too much money. It is hard to come by -AN lines and fittings locally, but I have ordered off of Speedway for some DIY stuff.

For you sir, You must have never held a real quality AN Fitting on your hands, or your budget just cant get you the real thing because REAL AN- quality fittings are NOT CHEAP AT ALL!!!

ebay sells garbage inferior aluminum fittings which will break and leak thus people not liking them. So this should open peoples' eyes that do not like AN fittings, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!

 

[T is for TURBO]

The term AN is used rather loosely in the automotive world, I would doubt that most "AN" fittings actually conform to MIL-F-5509 most are probably just SAE J514/ISO-8434-2 (JIC), both will work together up to a certain pressure. I have a JIC (parker trip-lok)fitting with a ((Russel) "AN" fitting on my talon and they do not leak.

 

[Total Eclipse]

AN fittings will not leak if done properly! The primary reason for a leak when using these fittings is user error. Either tightening the fittings too much, using teflon tape on them (big no-no), or not properly installing them onto the hoses. Done right, they are great. Easy disconnect, leak free, no Mickey Mouse hose clamps to deal with, durable, and they don't look bad either. Nearly all mine are AN, but it's gonna cost you! Like "miguelmvc" said, I have over $350 just in my fuel lines and fittings!
If you can afford it, and you want to do it, then go for it!

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I lost track of how much I spent on AN fittings, lines, adapters, filters etc.

Easily more than most people buy their DSM for in the first place

 

[Total Eclipse]

I probably have over $1,000 so far! It adds up real quick! It's one of those things that nickle and dime their way to a major balance.

 

[twicks69]

I use -20AN BMRS kevlar lines with double swivel 45's for my upper radiator hose, and -16AN Aeroquip Startlite lines for the block to electric water pump to radiator. In the past I ran -20AN BMRS ICORE from the front outlet of the OEM water pump to the radiator. Keep in mind, I made my own radiator which is a side inlet/outlet unit that sits further forward in the AC condensor location. I probably have $600-700 in either version I run. Stick with -16AN if you are going to do your coolant hoses, the cost is considerably different when you step up to -20AN. My -20AN fittings are around $130 each; -16AN is about half the price for the fittings. ICORE and kevlar lines are uber expensive but insanely light. Use -16AN Aeroquip Startlite or Goodridge or Fragola or BMRS or Progold for the big stuff.

All of my vacuum lines are -4AN and I use a variety of materials including stainless, nomex, ICORE and Startlite. For the TiAl BOV and wastegate I use M10x1.0mm banjo bolts w/crush washers and -4AN banjos from Pegasus Auto Racing (www.pegasusautoracing.com). I use a -4AN to 1/16"NPT NOS fitting on the AFPR, and a TurboSmart boost controller with 1/8"NPT to -4AN adaptors. The turbo oil feed is also a -4AN stainless line.

I use XRP silver colored silicone/fiberglass expandable fire sleeving on anything in contact or near contact with hot parts, and DEI reflective fire sheathing on vacuum lines that are near exhaust manifolds but not in contact and on the dipstick tube. The dipstick itself is covered with -16AN fire sleeve to prevent the plastic handle from melting due to proximity to the tubular manifold.

My mechanical gauges all use -4AN stainless or nomex lines with crimped ends and -4AN adaptors for boost and coolant. My oil pressure uses a MAP sensor remotely mounted in the driver fender well and has a 18" -4AN line from filter housing to the sensor to isolate vibration and heat.

My valve cover uses Fragola 100010 -10AN banjo fittings on -10AN stainless lines to Aeroquip -10AN degreed swivel fittings to the catch can and ProGold kevlar -10AN double swivel 90's from catch can to intake pipe.


I wouldn't be shocked if I have $2000-3000 in fittings/lines for this. It easily adds up.

Make a very detailed list of every fitting you will need, every hose fitting size/angle/type and length of hose with a bit extra for slack in the hose or if you measure incorrectly.

If you are going to be using all reusable lines/fittings, then I would strongly recommend using tightly wrapped electrical tape on the hose and cut the hose through the middle of the tape winding with either a chop saw w/solid cut wheel blade or a precise cut with a handheld 4.5" angle grinder w/ thinnest cut wheel disk.

After cutting evenly, clean out hose with brake clean (non-chlorinated) and compressed air. Lube up with a good assembly oil or Lucas Stop-Slip. Remove tape and install fitting. Personally, it is completely worth the investment to pick up Koul Tools small and large sets from Pegasus Auto Racing. It makes manual assembly a snap and no more hassles installing reusable fittings. If you like hassles and pounding fittings on, then go use pushlock fittings. If you have lines that are permanent like coolant or oil lines, do crimped fittings.


On a side note, stay as far away from cheap hose fittings, especially Summit brand, not worth the headaches. Stick with quality parts like EARLS or Goodridge for brake lines; Aeroquip, BMRS, ProGold and XRP for large crimp or angled reusable fittings; XRP and DEI for protective sleeving; and Fragola, Aeroquip, REDHORSE, etc for -10AN and smaller hose fittings.


Hopefully this information helps you with your setup!

 

[Total Eclipse]

Damn Twicks, lay it down! Good info though, I agree, stick with the good stuff, and assemble it properly and you should have no problems. +1 on the kool tool

 

[finesse49ers]

twicks69 don't be bullshittin'!

 

[twicks69]

Wow, I didn't see the part where he had a small budget. You are better off starting small and doing your -4an vacuum lines and oil feed line, your oil drain line, your fuel lines and fittings.
That's pretty much your budget right there.

If you are running your stock water pump, water lines and HVAC, use OEM upper 2g hose and a modified 2g lower hose with a hose splice installed in the middle to change the pivot point and fit onto a 1g turbo or 1g n/t main water pipe to clear the transmission shift lever (with counterweight removed).

Fuel lines and oil lines should be first on the menu, then either do new silicone vacuum lines (www.siliconeintakes.com) or spend more on the -4AN lines.

Shits not cheap either way.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Wow, I didn't see the part where he had a small budget. You are better off starting small and doing your -4an vacuum lines and oil feed line, your oil drain line, your fuel lines and fittings.
That's pretty much your budget right there.

If you are running your stock water pump, water lines and HVAC, use OEM upper 2g hose and a modified 2g lower hose with a hose splice installed in the middle to change the pivot point and fit onto a 1g turbo or 1g n/t main water pipe to clear the transmission shift lever (with counterweight removed).

Fuel lines and oil lines should be first on the menu, then either do new silicone vacuum lines (Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts) or spend more on the -4AN lines.

Shits not cheap either way.

Amen. Just wrapped up re-doing the rad hoses in -AN, cost a pretty penny.

I'm trying out the DOT push-to-lock stuff for the vac/boost lines and it is not only much more affordable but extremely easy to work with. So just a thought for the OP if money is tight.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[turboglenn]

JUst to add a few things...the 1/4inch pushlocks are great just dfon't use them on external wastegates on DSM's (i've melted them too uch to try these days) but they are great on BOV, and other vacum lines.

as for AN fittings and SS braided teflon or rubber lines, well, that stuff is currency in some circles, you're not gonna get god stuff cheap (maybe autozone look-like-AN-wrap) but the real stuff is pricey. I did my fuel system in -6AN push-lok rubber up until the filter where i switched to -6 SS braded (saved over 125 bucks going this route on my setup)

But the main thing i'd like to add is the technique to cut and assemble these lin..

Get yoursefl a sharp "Masons chisel" (about 7 bucks new at ACE) and a piece of aluminum at least 1/8th inch thick. Then use some masking tape to make about 2-3 tight wraps that overlap each other by 50 % where you want to cut it..

put the line down on the aluminum, and whack it into 2 peices with a good heavy hand held sledge and te chisel (this is how they show it dont' on their website) using anythin with a moving blade with do two things, it will leave particles in the hose you're making and it will fray the SS braiding as you cut.. the chisel (evenin my weakened state) goes through -8 in two smacks and is cut so clean you'll wonder why no one ever showed yu this way before. I mean it's the dfifference between me cursing and struggling for 20 minutes or more per fitting/cut, compared to using the chisel where i can cut a line, install a fitting and be working on the next cut or fitting in 5 minutes or les

the other key is to leave the tap on until you get the line about 1/8th to 1/4" inside the hose end, then unwrap it and the thin masking taoe with come right out and leave all the braided wire ends inside the fitting where they can't stab you in the fingers

There use to be a video on either the earls site or the aeroquip site (and i believe it was linked to on here which is where i am sure i found it) but there's really no better way to cut and assemble both rubber abnd PTFE SS braided lines

 

[Total Eclipse]

Hmmm, never thought to try a chisle. Interesting! I havn't had trouble doing it the old fation way, but I may try that next time!

 

[Paul@RTM]

We've used the chisel method and it does work well. A while back someone turned us on to a set of shears/cutters/whatever-you-want-to-call-them that work just as well and are ten times easier. Apparently, they were specifically designed for cutting stainless braided hose. I'll try to scare up a link to them if I can find it.

 

[twicks69]

This is the shears I use for -12AN and smaller. Though I am normally more accurate with a cut wheel on an angle grinder for any stainless lines I do.

Fragola Performance Systems Hand-Held Hose Shears 900062 - SummitRacing.com