All timing marks aligned but one...

[dsmBear]

I jhad everything lined up, but when i put the tensioner on, it moved the oil pump timing, so i took of tensioner and redid belt but it will not line up, yes i cranked it over manually by hand till they lined up again, does the oil pump even matter or what?

Tips on what to do next? I'm getting really frustrated with this .

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[doebelj1]

The manuals say to set up the bottom and then bring the belt up and around. The exhaust cam will usually rotate up a tooth, the intake typically stays put, the crank as well, and the oil pump usually pulls clockwise a tooth. If you can compensate for that you should be okay. However, after many attempts I've found the easiest way is to get the belt on the crank and oil pump, and on the cams. Then, when it's all lined up, pull the belt over the tensioner pulley, instead of pulling it up over the cams last. If you hold the belt tight up on the cams, everything should line up okay.

As mentioned above, something still looks off. The dowel pins should point straight up, and the cam marks should be in a nice line in reference to your valve cover. Plus, your crank should be at roughly 3 o'clock.

 

[pauleyman]

Please tell me youre not using that mark on the crank gear as the reference.

 

[snowborder714]

Based on the cam gear marks, I wouldn't be surprised

 

[DSM1G90]

Supposed to have that bolt back in and tightened down to close to 100 ft lbs before even attempting to do a belt.

Bet that crank sprocket, being not tightened down and floating on the crankshaft end, is scattering his timing everywhere.

And, this is a 6 bolt setup since there is no dip below the BS sprocket, thus no trigger plate.

 

[rebelboost]

With it like that, your dowel pins aren't facing up. You can't just rotate the cam 180*. Both dowel pins up and all 4 marks lined up in a row. When I did my timing belt, I had to rotate the exhaust cam clockwise a little bit or it would have been off by half a tooth. Keep the crank at TDC, intake cam straight as possible, then route the belt on the crank, oil pump sprocket, then intake cam. Hold them like that, then with a wrench rotate the exhaust cam gear clockwise past the marks a bit. Thread the belt on and release. Then set the tension on the pulley.

Don't forget to rotate the off center tension pulley towards the belt (make the eyes move more North) then release the grenade. I had to learn this the hard way, but today is my 1st t-belt job on a DSM. gl

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This tool helps a little, however, there is a better one out there that is more exact. If I didn't spend 4k on rebuild, I would of bought a better more precise alignment tool. But regardless of what tool you get they both would help with your timing belt.

 

[dsm144]

However, after many attempts I've found the easiest way is to get the belt on the crank and oil pump, and on the cams. Then, when it's all lined up, pull the belt over the tensioner pulley, instead of pulling it up over the cams last.

You do the cams first. Thats the easiest and most obvious part. I was in the same boat a couple days ago. Pull the plug out of the first cylinder and watch the piston. Turn the crank until it is at TDC. All you gotta do is set your cams and when you go around the oil pump pull the belt as hard as possible and dont leave any slack. Then do the same with the crank. Line up the marks with the belt to get it perfect and youll have no problems with the exhaust cam moving.

 

[DSM1G90]

Interesting is that: If one just lays the belt over the sprockets, take the two 17mm wrenches and turn the sprockets til the (correct) marks align up across from one another, that belt will just fall into their respective teeth where you then can bulldog or strap the belt down on the sprockets, then begin with going clockwise aroung the lower sprockets and pulleys-clockwise is due to that the sprockets turn clockwise during operation.

 

[doebelj1]

You do the cams first. Thats the easiest and most obvious part. I was in the same boat a couple days ago. Pull the plug out of the first cylinder and watch the piston. Turn the crank until it is at TDC. All you gotta do is set your cams and when you go around the oil pump pull the belt as hard as possible and dont leave any slack. Then do the same with the crank. Line up the marks with the belt to get it perfect and youll have no problems with the exhaust cam moving.

This sounds like it will work well too. I just put mine back on, lined up the crank and oil pump first, brought the belt around the timing belt pulley, pulled it tight on the intake cam, while holding down at the bottom, turned the exhaust cam exactly lined up and pulled it over the tensioner last.

The belt was so tight from everything else, that there was enough slack to tighten up the tensioner and it didn't move the belt, i.e. everything was dead on.

Either of these ways will eliminate having to compensate for the exhaust cam moving a tooth.

 

[pauleyman]

You never have to compensate for anything. Just have no slack on one side when you tension then double check via book methods. Simple 5 min process