* * Advised me for good choice for over 800hp

[1gDSM4g63]

Yeah, if you're only going to use the car for drag purposes and you're looking for top-end power in the 9000rpm+ I would consider aluminum rods.

 

[rev's]

I want dont go use only my car for dragrace.
aluminium rod is very only for dragrace?

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Aluminum rods don't have a very long life and best if you don't use as a daily driver, but they are lighter and better for top-end.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

I have eagle 88MM crankshaft
For the turbo,That advises to me you for over 800hp
i think for one forced performance or divided T72

My futur exhaust manifold Divided T4 Manifold - Gen 2 from shearer fabrications

I would think before stepping in the T72. It's laggy and in order to get the best out of it on a non-stroker engine you'll have to build a strong race head because you're only going to see power in the top-end. I would think about Borg Warner or Holset turbo, Garrett is overrated especially for big turbos.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Aluminum rods don't have a very long life and best if you don't use as a daily driver

I strongly disagree. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/311352-contructive-info-aluminum-rods.html

FWIW, I will be using aluminum rods in my car when I build the engine. I plan on street driving it more than racing it.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

I always thought the aluminum rods had a shorter life because some shop didn't recommend Groden rods for daily driving and I've read a couple of forums in agreement. I guess they were wrong.

 

[rev's]

And for the eagle crankshaft,advised me ?
I want over 800hp....

 

[snowborder714]

The stock crank should be fine.

I'd say go with aluminum rods as well.

 

[dsmusmc]

Groden rods are fine for a daily driver you just need to check the rod bolts every so many miles because they can stretch.

 

[rev's]

Which turbocharger advised me for 800HP+???? wich A/R???
which be your preference?

 

[dsm-onster]

gt4202r, s372, hx50/52/55, T72 w/ a qtrim wheel. A/R will be up to tastes.

 

[andy4g63]

Listen Rev's, I think you mentioned somewhere, that you have nice budget, so here it is:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...new-billet-stroker-kit-what-big-boys-run.html

Change the rods from aluminum to billet steel rods/it will not affect the price-may be/ and you are done. Buy the Beehive spings from Kiggly Racing. Get either GT4202R, or Borg Warner-S372-374, like dsm-onster suggested and last choose nice st of camshafts- almost any 280-288 would do, or get FP F5R cams, or something custom and you are done. The rest is just wrenching.

 

[kiggly]

Kevin, would you have any comments on oil pressure at the higher rpms as well concerning the stock cylinder head oil galley hydraulic lash adjuster pressure regulator? I have reviewed the information on your site in the past and the part you have made to help with the oil pressure levels at high rpms along with your datalogs. Could you please add some detail to the conversation regarding your piece you made, since I believe that there are many people that have not seen the part, and it could play a beneficial role in their setups.

Sorry, I'm a little slow on the uptake here.

In OEM trim the lifters receive high oil pressure that is simply plumbed to them from the engine oil pressure chain through a little block that bolts to the head with 3 M6 fasteners. This can put pressure to the lifters possibly as high as 100psi, spraying gobs and gobs of oil on the rockers and cam lobes. The amount of oil this moves is way more than is really needed. All this oil needs to find its way back through the head drainbacks to the pan. Lowering oil pressure to the lifters also lowers this oil flow and does a better job of keeping the pan full of oil during high rpm operation.

Lifters also are happier with lower oil pressure supply. They seem to pump up less if the valvetrain loses control. I don't have a good technical reason for this (their chamber isn't directly exposed to oil pressure), but it seems to be how they work. My part also adds an air bleed at the highest part of the system to minimize air pockets to the lifters. Obviously, lifters don't like air instead of oil.

My part regulates the lifter supply down to 15psi by a flow-restricting pressure regulator. This is plenty of pressure and flow to keep the valvetrain lubed. There was a JDM regulator randomly in very early DSM's and some imported motors that regulated the lifter pressure by dumping extra flow out to the head. It ran similar pressure to mine, but didn't help the oil return and oil stackup in the head situation. Those units are also quite rare.

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[twicks69]

Sorry, I'm a little slow on the uptake here.

In OEM trim the lifters receive high oil pressure that is simply plumbed to them from the engine oil pressure chain through a little block that bolts to the head with 3 M6 fasteners. This can put pressure to the lifters possibly as high as 100psi, spraying gobs and gobs of oil on the rockers and cam lobes. The amount of oil this moves is way more than is really needed. All this oil needs to find its way back through the head drainbacks to the pan. Lowering oil pressure to the lifters also lowers this oil flow and does a better job of keeping the pan full of oil during high rpm operation.

Lifters also are happier with lower oil pressure supply. They seem to pump up less if the valvetrain loses control. I don't have a good technical reason for this (their chamber isn't directly exposed to oil pressure), but it seems to be how they work. My part also adds an air bleed at the highest part of the system to minimize air pockets to the lifters. Obviously, lifters don't like air instead of oil.

My part regulates the lifter supply down to 15psi by a flow-restricting pressure regulator. This is plenty of pressure and flow to keep the valvetrain lubed. There was a JDM regulator randomly in very early DSM's and some imported motors that regulated the lifter pressure by dumping extra flow out to the head. It ran similar pressure to mine, but didn't help the oil return and oil stackup in the head situation. Those units are also quite rare.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the information, it exactly what I was looking for!

 

[boosted240]

I agree. Y should do aluminum rods if your gonna be drag racing. You should probably move up to 1600cc injectors. And i havent messed wit motech. Iv heard a lot of good things though. And yea a gt4202 would be a great choice. Or even a ceramic BB. Spools up great.

 

[8secondDSM]

We have customers that have been running groden rods on the street for more than 2 years, no problems at all. 1600cc injectors will work,42R and would look into the manley pistons,we have been running them in our drag car for years. All customers engines with big power have them in them. Good luck Bill Showdown Motorsports

 

[biglady112]

How large is your parachute? 6ft? 8ft? It seems small to me. We run a single 12 footer and wil be adding one in the next twelve months on the land speed car. I guess a little guy like that would be ok for drag racing. I have just been introduced in the past few years to LSR racing, so I am use to following strict guidelines.

 

[Slippi84]

I will admit untill I saw pics of the car and saw you were from Europe I was like wtf is this guy talking about . But it looks like your legit from the car. If you plan on spinning the motor above 8500 I would invest in a good set of aluminum rods with weisco or Ross pistons 280 cams and either ETS or SBR race fmic for IC setup. A good set of 3g lifters and ffwd/kiggley behive springs and retainers are ideal for reving that high with aggressive cams but you ca get away with something like manley or crower.

 

[rev's]

My parachute is very very too small,is just à temporary....

 

[rev's]

Hi,

Have you a example of owner with a aluminium rod for little street and drag racing????Where found a 3g litfer?

thanks

 

[Slippi84]

Hi,

have you a example of owner with a aluminium rod for little street and drag racing????

thanks

Evil eagle, Topstreet and several others that are on the top of the 1/4 mile list.

 

[rev's]

Hi,

For my futur new setup of 800hp+.I would like à best choice for my street/drag application (with 100hp shot nitrous) of crankshaft.
I stay in 2,0L with a 88mm stroke (stock)

Can you advised me on the threads:

-Weight of stock and eagle 4340
-Problemes of stock crankshaft ???
-If i stay the stock crankshaft ,advised you me lightened?cryo?

I search a most informations and opinions

Thanks

 

[DSM_PWR]

In my opinion

Stay with your stock OEM 2.0 Crankshaft, people have proven to use these very very far...

Get it cryotreated and polished and should be good to go, along with balancing your entire rotary assembly...

Depending on who you ask, will tell you that cryo treatment does nothing and that its a waste, but at the same time those people arent making enough power to need it ... but from what my Machinist tells me, when he's tried to cut a cryotreated crank, its alot harder surface/process than cutting a non cryo treated crank...

Which can only tell you that obviously its making the material alot stronger

Depending on how far you want to rev out your motor, will tell you whether or not you will need to cut the crank or not...

 

[rev's]

Wich camshaft is designed for solid litfer???

FP4R?
FP5R?
HKS 280°?

Where found a 3g lifter?this good for over 9000rpm?
Wich advise for BLE and TOMEI solid lifter?

Thanks at all and kiggly racing for all opinions,advised....

 

[rev's]

I want highly revs over 9000rpm!!!!

Wich owners usely a stock crankshaft with over 800hp??? or ffwd cryo or eagle 4340 crankshaft???