* * Advised me for good choice for over 800hp

[rev's]

Thanks,

Wich modifications and maintenances for rod aluminium??

 

[Slippi84]

Thanks,

Wich modifications and maintenances for rod aluminium??

They say at most you have to check for rod bolt stretch but I think that has been fixed with new metals so that it's not a mandatory thing anymore.

Oh and you have to make sure the rods clear the main cap bridges too. Someone brands you have to shave the bridges so that the rods won't hit.

 

[rev's]

Somes pics of the cars actualy before the next step

"Rebuild the motor with new parts and setup for over 800hp++ "

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[mononctsi]

Make sure to throw that PMS and fiberglass intake far away before you do anything else.

We had al rods on our drag car for more than a year and they're the best rods out there for a high power, high rev application. They put very little stress on the rod bearings and crank compared to heavy steel rods. BTW, we always ran OEM cranks and never had a problem with them. The car ran about 30 mid-high 8 seconds passes on the same OEM crank and it still looks new. Same set of bearings as well!

Bonne chance avec ton projet.

 

[turbotalon1g]

PMS FTL in all aspects.

 

[kiggly]

Wich camshaft is designed for solid litfer???

FP4R?
FP5R?
HKS 280°?

Where found a 3g lifter?this good for over 9000rpm?
Wich advise for BLE and TOMEI solid lifter?

Thanks at all and kiggly racing for all opinions,advised....

None of those cams are designed for a solid lifter. Jun and Tomei make cam grinds for solid lifters, but I don't know any details about how well they perform. I would stick with HLA, I see no good reason to go to solid lifters.

Kevin

 

[kawboy]

Since you're here Kiggly, 1g lifters or revised (big hole) lifters?

 

[myturbo]

go with the magnus motorsport rotating assembly. and i have a few friends that use to run the eagle crankshaft but went back to the oem crank ..but the best stuff is the magnus kit get it and then cryo treat it all and some kigly springs and i like SBI 1mm oversized swirl polished valves ..make sure you get a fluid dampner also.and send your head for porting and valves etc.and run the magnus bolts all. your gonna need a good trans and a quatermaster twindisc clutch kit..and DRIVESHAFT SHOP axles ..etc etc etc

 

[mononctsi]

Forgot to mention it, but our rods and pistons are from Magnus. Same thing for the cams.

We'll also be using a Magnus crank in place of the OEM this year. Plans are to rev the motor up to 11k this year.

Head is built with 1mm oversized valves and Kiggly racing springs.

To hold that rotating assembly in place, we'll be using Kiggly's girdle.

Between Magnus and Kigglyracing, you'll find everything you'll need to build a fantastic motor.

 

[kiggly]

Since you're here Kiggly, 1g lifters or revised (big hole) lifters?

Either model works fine. As long as they stay primed (don't tick) and the valvetrain is in control, the lash adjuster does absolutely nothing. I'm running the big hole versions in my car, whatever that is worth. I've run both in my car and also on the test bench with no differences aside from the big hole versions tend to not tick as much.

Ticking = death though, if the valvetrain has slack all the accelerations are thrown way off and very bad things will happen. A ticking lifter will take a perfectly stable valvetrain combination and put it into complete chaos. Instead of the designed motion and acceleration profile, rockers bang off the cam and valves extremely hard and at astronomical accelerations. Everything bounces and bangs. Rockers can be tossed, valves floated, etc. Never rev a motor high if the lifters are ticking.

Kevin

 

[kawboy]

That's good enough to bookmark!

Thanks

 

[turboglenn]

I would just like to add that i know of two people that have been running aluminum rods on the street for well over a year, and besides checking the bolts (which they were fine each time) there's no problems as far as i've seen on running groden or carrillo rods on the street and at the track.

I would love to see a pic of this oil regulator. I have the rare one that you can find in old motors, but would like to build one for my spare engine just to have... PM or post pics please

 

[rev's]

Hi,
For my new setup for over 800hp

ROSS PISTONS

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[compression]

is it me or is this shifter like extremely high? and what is the compression ratio on thos pistons?

 

[compression]

I always thought the aluminum rods had a shorter life because some shop didn't recommend Groden rods for daily driving and I've read a couple of forums in agreement. I guess they were wrong.

ever heard of plastic rods? my engine builder told me they are a few companies trying to produce some

Plastic automotive engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

One engine, jointly developed as a research project with Ford [1], was based on Ford's 2.3-liter and weighed 153lbs (against 415lbs for its iron counterpart). It has been reported that the engine made 318 bhp at 11,000 rpm and redlined at 14,000 rpm. It was composed of metal cylinder sleeves, metal combustion chamber tops, metal piston crowns, bearings, valves and seats, and a stock 2.3L Pinto crankshaft. Nearly everything else in the engine, including the block, rods and piston skirts, were made of Torlon thermoplastic resins manufactured by Amoco Chemicals Co. The motor was never put in to mass production.


[edit] Torlon thermoplastic
Torlon thermoplastic, the material used to construct the engine, has properties that out-perform all but the most exotic composites and polymers. Torlon is a polymer that provides a desirable combination of properties, including:

strength competitive with metal across an extraordinary temperature range
toughness and modulus far greater than most polymers
it passes FAA flammability tests
it is unaffected by aviation fluids such as MEK, Tric 1,1,1, and Skydrol hydraulic fluid
Torlon resin can also be injection molded.

 

[dsm-onster]

WOW! I used to tinker with a t-bird tc with the lima 2.3 turbo motor. That's very interesting!

 

[twicks69]

After all of my new experiences with aluminum rods, and the time/cost of clearancing everything in my stroker motor, I would tell someone to run the Howards/MAPerformance Ultimate Duty Steel Rods instead. I have around 20-30 hours of grind time into clearancing the Groden rods for my setup (7-bolt 2.3L Stroker with custom pistons and Groden Rods).

If you want aluminum rods, go for it, but you will be saving a good chunk of money by going with a set of steel rods and have more reliability at the tradeoff of pounding out rod bearings more regularly, but having the ability to run the steel rods for a much longer time without servicing.

 

[rev's]

Hi,

Finaly i want a aluminium rod for my new setup (over 800hp)

Wich advised me for my choice GRP are GRODEN ??? and why?
Which bearing for this products advised me?

Thanks for all again

 

[Slippi84]

Hi,

Finaly i want a aluminium rod for my new setup (over 800hp)

Wich advised me for my choice GRP are GRODEN ??? and why?
Which bearing for this products advised me?

Thanks for all again

Most anything people say about aluminum rods is just opinion I haven't heard why one set is better than another other than just this person has x brand and likes them. Groden seems to be the most liked brand with that said. I would read what twick said though because if you don't have a lot of money put aside or have a good hook up machining aluminum rods to fit can get pricey.

 

[rev's]

Which is modifications and bearing for aluminium rod?

 

[Slippi84]

Which is modifications and bearing for aluminium rod?

ACL race bearing but most aluminum rods come with special bearings with a pin in the middle to prevent them from spinning.

 

[twicks69]

ACL race bearing but most aluminum rods come with special bearings with a pin in the middle to prevent them from spinning.

The only shop that sells machined bearings with their aluminum rods is Darren at FFWD Connection. Each rod bearing MUST be machined per rod cap as the locator dowel in the rod cap is not centered, and you will need a darn good machinist to properly mill the bearing to match the rod cap. The easiest way is to use some spare stock rod caps and use them as a fixture to mill the rod bearings.

I strongly suggest the Howards/MAPerformance Ultimate duty steel rods as they will be MUCH EASIER and MUCH CHEAPER to run than the aluminum rods. They will also last longer, and won't have the issue of rod bolt stretch like the aluminum rods will have. If you want the motor to last a long time on the same rods and rod bolts, I would go with the steel rods I mentioned above.

They can be found here:

MAPerformance Ultimate Duty Billet Steel Connecting Rods (6 Bolt 4g63) - Modern Automotive Performance

They are the same initial price as the aluminum rods, but they will save you money that you would need to spend on the machining of the rod bearings, and the overall lifespan will be cheaper to run. As well, they will require less clearancing machinework to run, and can EASILY hold over 1000HP.

Take a look at them, as I am trying to save you money after my experiences with the aluminums. The aluminums are nice also, but they will be a shorter lifespan rod than the Howard's rods. The key downfall of any steel rod, especially on a stroker with a bad rod/stroke ratio, is that they will pound out rod bearings faster than an aluminum rod. I replaced the rod bearings once in 3 years with my steel rods in my stroker. They were getting pounded out from 40+psi and 8700rpm in a 2.3L, but still lasted ~25,000-30,000miles before being replaced. I originally built the motor in September of 2005, and refreshed it in April of 2007 (new rings and bearings only), then ran it until July of 2008 before I took it out of my car for my new engine setup.

 

[rev's]

Ok twicks69.Where found a pics of modifications,list of bearing? or machined bearings pics???
I have a very good machinist but not a pics of modifications....

Thanks.

 

[twicks69]

Well, I can only help so much. I already have my motor together. I used Clevite rod bearings and machined them in a fixture using stock rod caps and doing proper measurements to locate the dowels per rod, then milled them to fit. As for the block clearancing, it will depend on your setup and will require clearancing based on your rotating assembly and how it fits inside your motor. Your machinist better be able to know how to clearance a race engine to fit larger sized rods.

If is pretty self-explanatory when you actually see the rods how to machine the bearings. I would suggest that if you are going to purchase rods, I would contact Darren at FFWD Connection, as he sells Groden rods and machines the rod bearings in-house to fit each rod cap. FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain is the website.

 

[rev's]

Hi,

working in progress

The new dashboard with a new tachometer and manometers......

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Must change the rocker arms for the combination FP5R/FP11R? and high rpm?
If yes ,by what models?
Who used the FLOWBENCH for OVER 800HP?if yes were found the good informations please?
Wich throttle body? 70mm or 90mm


Thanks