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Actual Dyno Numbers vs. Link Estimate

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RocCitySlayer

10+ Year Contributor
792
7
Nov 20, 2011
Rochester, New York
If STMs "HeartBreaker" AWD Mustang Dyno said my car was 333awhp with a wastegate problem "Sticking open" and EcmLink read 404awhp on a 3rd gear pull with the wastegate functioning right. What numbers should I consider my car to be? I have heard that STMs dyno reads 20% less then a dynojet dyno but i dont know...
Any suggestions?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
333whp is what you can tell people, since that's the only verifiable tested number you've got.

If that upsets you, tell them you have 500whp. Dyno's are for bragging rights and tuning, nothing else.
 
I have heard that DSMLink is accurate to 20+- whp and also mustang dyno's do read less than dyno jets but that's because it calculates "actual" hp like what it would be running in 3rd gear at ##mph with the wind resistance and all.
 
Its pretty common for mustang dynos to read low. Just tell people you are making 333whp, and then when they see the timeslip they will think you are god at driving.
 
Tell them... Your putting down good ole american hp
 
Dyno numbers are just that a dyno is a tunning tool to see if the changes you make are good or bad why would you be worried about a number?
 
A dyno is a tuning tool, it keeps you from having to do 3rd gear pulls from 35 to 100mph down a busy interstate multiple times to tune the car. Big numbers are always nice but you shouldn't let your dyno numbers do the talking, track times/speeds are what count.

Take the car (and the new tune) to the track and enjoy all your hard work rather than bumming because the numbers were lower than what you hoped.

:dsm:
 
A dyno is a tuning tool, it keeps you from having to do 3rd gear pulls from 35 to 100mph down a busy interstate multiple times to tune the car. Big numbers are always nice but you shouldn't let your dyno numbers do the talking, track times/speeds are what count.

Take the car (and the new tune) to the track and enjoy all your hard work rather than bumming because the numbers were lower than what you hoped.

:dsm:

So I shouldn't focus my build around the dyno which I could be wastng money on? I should focus on track completion and laptimes?
 
So I shouldn't focus my build around the dyno which I could be wastng money on? I should focus on track completion and laptimes?

That is completely up to you, if you want a "fast" car I would focus on track / laptimes. Plus you can make 600whp but if it doesn't make it to the ground its worthless (bad tires, bad suspension, etc).
 
i was reading this thread hoping to have good info.. you guys arent giving ANY info..

the dsmlink HP is only accurate DURING a pull, and even then its supposed to be "pretty accurate" another member on here in another thread (cant remember which one) placed about 5 hp different on dsmlink then the dyno he used. to give you a fairly good idea. its decently accurate, But of course a dyno will be more accurate.

Can people tune your car on a dyno without using dsmlink? if you have dsmlink? like say the operator doesnt know how to tune dsmlink can he use what ever software the dyno uses to plug into OBD2 like say a honda would or something? < im not gonna be doing this but just for the sake of curiosity.
 
Link HP estimates seem to be good crank HP numbers, and tend to run right along with the amount of airflow logged- I.E., 72 lb/min generated, Link will estimate around 720hp which is an accurate crank measurement.

Wheel HP varies, obviously.
 
i was reading this thread hoping to have good info.. you guys arent giving ANY info..

the dsmlink HP is only accurate DURING a pull, and even then its supposed to be "pretty accurate" another member on here in another thread (cant remember which one) placed about 5 hp different on dsmlink then the dyno he used. to give you a fairly good idea. its decently accurate, But of course a dyno will be more accurate.

Can people tune your car on a dyno without using dsmlink? if you have dsmlink? like say the operator doesnt know how to tune dsmlink can he use what ever software the dyno uses to plug into OBD2 like say a honda would or something? < im not gonna be doing this but just for the sake of curiosity.

Yes, he can tune the car without dsmlink. However, you would lose any special features that are only in dsmlink. Normally tuners will tune with anything but some will charge you a little extra to "learn" the software.
 
So I shouldn't focus my build around the dyno which I could be wastng money on? I should focus on track completion and laptimes?
ECMlink's horsepower/torque numbers are only as accurate as you make them and even then, it's an estimate. There are parameters in the software that need to be changed to make them accurate, i.e., vehicle weight and gear ratios or else it's just a bunch of numbers. Along with that, when you do a WOT 3rd gear pull the road must be flat and the same strip of asphalt should be used to keep the runs consistent.

The same applies when you dyno the car, every dyno reads a bit different and it's only as accurate as the operator makes it. For example, I was at RRE and they were beating the living shit out of an Evo trying to do anything they could to crack the 400awhp mark. The Evo was hitting 398awhp (close) so they turned up the boost 5 psi and still hit 398awhp. Advanced peak timing 2*, still saw 398awhp. Sam, the guy that tuned my car there, walked up to the dyno computer and made some changes and then put the tune on the Evo back to what it was (5psi less boost and retarded timing 2*) and did a pull and the dyno read 402awhp, all because he changed dyno settings.

The point of all this is, dyno numbers don't tell the whole story and neither do Links estimates. If you want to know how much horsepower (X) amount of mods did then use the same dyno or same patch of road. I went to Road Race and made 260awhp and went back to the same dyno and made 440awhp, a significant difference on the same dyno so I knew the bolt-ons did something, which is all you should be worried about anyway...

:dsm:
 
Like everyone is stating, Dyno's are a tool for measurement so you can see changes. Most dyno's out there have the same ability users have with ECMLink. All they do is change the gear ratio and it'll change the HP number shown. You have to watch out for some shops though. I've seen them change the gear ratio number between pulls and they won't say anything to the owner of the car mostly because they don't have the knowledge of how it works :-/
 
I would go with the dyno number knowing thats its a conservative #.

I see too many inconsistency with ECMLink's power estimates. Numbers vary depending on what gear im in and if I do a single gear pull, or run through a range of gears. Estimates also show up wavy on my logs. I dont even look at it anymore. When it comes to ECMLink Im more interested in Air and Fuel flow to get an estimate.
 
Why would you go to STM dyno if you think Dynojet reads high and you want high bragging number? I said it many times before. Go to a Dynojet facility because it is the most consistent dyno in the world. This way you can compare with other people's cars across the world. If you worry about your car not being able to produce the number you want, then compare your number to the guys using the same dyno type.

DSMLINK/ECMLINK hp estimate. That is a freaken joke.
 
A dyno is a tuning tool, it keeps you from having to do 3rd gear pulls from 35 to 100mph down a busy interstate multiple times to tune the car. Big numbers are always nice but you shouldn't let your dyno numbers do the talking, track times/speeds are what count.

Take the car (and the new tune) to the track and enjoy all your hard work rather than bumming because the numbers were lower than what you hoped.

:dsm:

^ THIS

I couldn't of said it better. If an AWD dyno isn't available in your area then street tuning is what you have to do, that or haul the car to the nearest AWD dyno, or pull the T-case and dyno in FWD. A dyno is just to help tune, unless your main goal is to achieve #'s. Myself, I am more conserned with what the car will to on a track wether it be an 1/8th mile or a 1/4 mile. Getting my car to perform at its fullest potential at a track is more important to me than hitting a number on a dyno. Especially in my case running an automatic transmission, I will always have drivetrain loss greater than a manual trans so chasing dyno numbers is pointless. Laying it down on a track is what I'm interested in doing.

My advice,

Take it to a track and make some passes, if you pull some good 60's, MPH and ET and you're still not satisfied with the results, take it back to the dyno for some fine tuning and see if you can squeeze any more HP out of it.

Goodluck!
 
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